ProDave

I am of the opposite school there. A pixel fault is likely a screen issue and unlikely repairable so I would have used the period when the fault went away to sell that so someone else before the fault comes back and possibly gets worse.

Personally I never see the need for an "AV Amp" That will route all input sources through that and output sound to the speaker and video to the tv. But more complicated to set up and my bugbear another remote control to juggle with. Instead I let the tv do all AV input selecting. Take Digital audio out from the tv to my very much simpler surround sound amp which is in fact just a DVD player with surround sound. I use 2 of these one in each living room and as they are old tech, you can get them cheap as chips I paid £20 for one recently a Sony, when it's predecessor failed and beat my attempts at fixing it. What is your budget and do you have to have new?

Some pictures of what you have might help. Trying to understand how you widen and lengthen a garage without knocking any of it down?

How about the largest touring caravan that will fit? or even 2 of them?

Very dependant on local LPA In my case they tried to force an "under your control" clause in, until I pointed out a few months before another planning app on the same road had been approved without an under your control clause so they removed it. During the discussions with highways about it they said of someone obstructs the visibility to inform them and they would come and deal with it.

A dead mouse under a floor board or kitchen unit etc can smell really bad for a long time

Most meter boxes seem to come with just a very thin bit of quite ordinary looking chipboard to fix to.

In Scotland, if it is better than 3 you must fit MVHR

I think the separation distance is 300mm. In any event I dug a trench with a 1ft wide bucket and one duct each side of the trench.

If it is decent top soil, it will get pulverised and full of all sorts of muck during the build, so scrape it off into a pile at the edge of the site until building has finished. Then spray with glyphosate wait until inevitable weeds have died, spread it evenly and seed.

Those roof vents connect with a flexible connection so that is a potential place for a leak. Is there any loft space at all and if so any access? If so does the loft smell?

Building warrant in Scotland is similar to full plans approval in England. There is no simpler option here. No building notice option. You submit your design to building control and can't start building until all details are approved. At least you then know if you build to the plans there will be no nasty surprises.

That will be heavy. Probably a 2 man lift with 4 handles, but someone else will have to advise what sort of handles to get as I don't recognise that type of cover.

That looks to be 200mm spaced pipes. Fine in a well insulated house like ours, we have 200mm pipe spacing and it works fine, but for a retrofit on an older house I would have expected closer. There is an air gap between the insulation and the spreader plates. If the detail at the ends of the run is not good, that void could just be full of cold air from under the insulation. My first thought is lift a floorboard at each end and see if that space is cold, feel for draughts etc.

I sometimes curse Scottish BC for being so pedantic about drain tests (they witnessed 3 separate drain tests here) but there is no way this sort of issue would have not been resolved if the OP's house had been tested as diligently. The time to find and fix a leak, is BEFORE it's all covered in plasterboard, skim and painted.

Stick silhouettes of predatory birds on the windows. (don't ask me what might attack a raven but some bird of prey? )

It is not the compaction risk that would put me off, it's what they leave behind when they take it. So I would say no.

You can do an air test yourself, I did mine all myself twice for BCO to witness. You do need to get up on the roof to put a blanking plug in the top of the vent, then you pump it up from the nearest access in an inspection chamber. My guess is you will find it won't pump up at all let alone hold pressure. As it's new, get the builder to come and do this, surely there is some form of warranty? Did you buy it from as developer or get it built for you?

You can do a timber stud insulated wall between house and garage, that's what we have. It just needs 2 layers of firestop plasterboard on the garage side. (as you also do on the garage ceiling)

That looks to me like it is set up as a recirculating hood, not an extracting hood (look outside to see if there is a vent outlet) If so it will just be blowing the warm moist air out at the top of the "chimney" (you will see vents on the side of it) If it is recirculating it should have charcoal filters on the fan intake if you remove the grilles.

@Roger440 What is the cost they are quoting you for a single phase supply? If that is reasonable, then would a good compromise be single phase for most of the time then fire up the genny for the few times you need to run a 3 phase load? What do you have that needs 3 phase?

I started fitting the battens from the bottom, making their own ladder as you went.

Every time you see floods predicted on the news you see sand bags etc by the thousand. I have yet to see a case where they do any good, and later you see the sand bagged houses pumping out the water. You would need the whole house tanked to swimming pool standard for the outcome to be otherwise. In the village I lived down south, there was one old cottage that regularly flooded when the river came up but not by very much. They had "flood hardened" it. The ground floor was quarry tiles on concrete with quarry tile skirting. The walls were sand cement rendered to about 1 metre up. No electrics were low down. Kitchen units were on legs with no kick boards. When a flood was predicted all small stuff went upstairs, the sofa and other large furniture went up on bricks and the owner wore wellies when downstairs. When the flood went, he just mopped out the ground floor and put the furniture back. Perhaps a similar robust floor covering and skirting etc might minimise damage next time?

That is a silly "solution" The problem we have at the moment, is wind farms etc build on the basis of a cost price and they bid that plus a profit. But they end up getting paid the gas price and making a much larger profit. Anyone can see this is bonkers. All we need is a system where the generators make a sensible profit and the price the consumer pays is fair. There is probably a good argument for nationalising the gas back stop generators and they can be stopped and started as required without the threat of the operators shutting them down for good if they don't have their cake and eat it.

Time for Scotland to have it's own pricing, and electricity exported over the border metered?