ProDave

Your work in the lane, is really just trying to use the lane as a "roof" to keep ALL water off the actual slab below it to hide the leak. As @crispy_wafer says you need to excavate around the offending window and seal the joint between slab and upstand to death.

So it sounds like when using immersion to top up heating because the HP can't cope or the settings are sub optimal, it relies on the temperature probe to control the temperature. I would not be happy with using that immersion with an EDDI without first fitting a normal thermostat with a temperature dial to it. It is quite possible that the reason the over heat tripped was because you put too much heat into it with the EDDI and the water reached the trip level because there was no other thermostat to stop it. On more than one occasion (like a recent holiday) the tank had maxed out at the set thermostat temperature as no HW was being used and a lot got exported in a few days. With no conventional thermostat on the heater you had a potentially dangerous situation. I would expect somewhere, hopefully very prominent, in the user instructions, with that configuration warning you not to use that immersion heater for anything else.

That's interesting. I have never seen one that does not have a temperature dial. But the standard Cotherm thermostat used in almost every other UVC with a conventional thermostat and the over heat trip should fit as a direct replacement. Is there a separate thermostat? I think Megaflow for instance have the thermostat remote from the heating element.

And bear in mind the fire implications, cables should be supported with metal clips so in the event of a fire they don't hang down endangering fire fighters.

I did my own plasterboarding. Whenever I had an offcut, I laid it out in clear view. Then whenever I needed a cut, I first looked at my stock of offcuts before cutting a new sheet. I was staggering just how small my waste pile was at the end of the job and how many of my offcuts got used elsewhere. Contrast that to when the boarder is not paying, you see lots of very large offcuts in the skip at the end.

If they are real bullies complaining for no reason, then word quickly gets around here and nobody will do work for them.

It depends what is wrong, the wiring? The setup? the immersion thermostat or the actual immersion element. Only the latter is strictly a plumbing job requiring the tank to be drained and a large immersion heater spanner, but many electricians will do that better than plumbers will fault find the wiring. If you want to tackle it yourself give us more information and photos and do you have any test equipment like a multimeter? If the over heat trip on the thermostat won't reset then it is faulty, but how do you know is has not reset without any testing? If you just want it done, just call a trusted electrician.

Foundations can be horrible, usually things get a lot easier when you are "out of the ground"

As a sole trader it is indeed very annoying when a client does not pay. It has only happened to me 3 times. Usually a "letter before action" gets the bill paid or at least gets the client talking to you to agree a compromise. The only time that failed was when a couple split mid job. The man paid half the invoice but the woman paid nothing. She claimed she had no money. I did not take it to court as I thought it futile and I had already received enough to cover all the materials and most of the labour. I did however have a bit of "satisfaction" when I later read the man had been found guilty of abusing the woman he left penniless.

I guess I am lucky to have a local plumber I know well and often worked with. He was happy for me to run all the pipes after discussing with him, he just came and filled the tank, checked everything and signed the paperwork for a modest sum.

Buildhub is not a place to publicly debate a builder / client dispute. Personal information removed from the post, any further attempt at posting personal details will result in the tread being removed. It is currently under discussion by the moderators

They are both wrong to charge you VAT on a new build. If necessary show them the PP to prove it is a new build. If they won't back down choose someone else. You will not be able to claim it back.

No they don't. See @JohnMo description above. You have to store the water in the thermal store much hotter than your target water temperature if you want to get a decent volume of water out, which is why they are a very poor match to an ASHP.

A thermal store sounds like a good idea, just like a combo boiler does, until you drill down into the details. Un vented cylinder every day for me. Why are people so against a modest maintenance requirement to get something good?

I see he's used "structural PIR" at both ends.

speak to designer / architect / builder and get a blown in beads or celulous cavity fill. WAY more chance of actually achieving theoretical calculated U value of walls. As noted several times, forget UFH in halls. Use SAME spacing throughout if you are uncomfortable at 200mm use 150mm. That will mean rooms more likely to be balanced so easier to fine tune with flow rates and use as one or 2 zones.

And I bet the builders will be saying what a good job, a nice insulated house.....

If you cylinder is large enough you can improve on that by reducing your target temperature, ours is set to 48 degrees which is plenty. ASHP flow temperature set to 55 degrees max,

So pragmatic solution. Leave the existing wall as it is. No planning or anything needed to "fix" it. On your side raise the ground with gabions to not quite the full height and infill behind. This will give you a narrow raised strip on your side to plant a hedge or build a fence and stop the wall falling over.

This leads onto "What is a Canadian Well?" Care to start yet another thread to enlighten those of us that have not heard of that?

Neither do I. But I have only seen a picture of a leaning wall, and have no context where this wall is in relation to the listed building, your build, or indeed any property boundary. For all I know your build may be 50 metres away, or right at the bottom of the failing wall?

What the website does not SAY (you have to look at a video to understand it) is this is a continual process mixer. Feed bagged content into the top and as long as you keep that fed, you get a continuous stream of concrete out of the end. A Completely different thing to the conventional mixer which is a batch process. So I would say different machine for different use with limited overlap. Choose the machine that suits the task.

As above DO NOT fit UFH loops in hallways. I made that mistake (on professional advice) in my first self build over 20 years ago. It seems the "professionals" do not learn. The hallway has only a tiny bit of external wall / door to actually loose heat and lots and lots of internal walls which adjoin heated rooms so zero heat loss. UFH pipes pass through them, they will give some heat, not that you need it. How well insulated is the house? We are in the Highlands so a cold climate and find 200mm pipe centres throughout perfectly fine so someone would have to present me with a very good reason why any of your rooms should need 100mm?

Simple. Don't fit a dedicated UFH loop for the plant room, but lay the connecting pipes to other rooms spread out as if they were actually used for heating (not all bunched up together as seems normal) And for no extra cost or effort you get some heat into the floor of the plant room whenever any other room is heating.

What is that "support beam" supporting? It looks too tiny to be doing anything as a "beam"