ProDave

If you want a random pattern with random joints, what I find is you lay the first row, cutting the last board to fit. The offcut from that is then used to start the next row. Regardless of how long or short it is. As well as zero waste, it gets away from identical joints.

To keep a "trench" there you don't need to build it up with bricks, how about railway sleepers to hold back the trench?

They normally just push into a pocket. Note the depth the old ones come out and set the new ones in the same depth. But if the new PCB is working with the old sensors I would just leave it like that.

I serviced mine recently (completely different type) It was the little tiny rubber pad that part of the mechanism closes on to form a seal that had worn. Of course it was impossible to replace the little rubber pad, so I turned it over and re fitted. That of course just kicks the problem down the road until the other side of the little rubber pad wears out then I need to try harder to find one.

Reading this thread in conjunction with your other one about the septic tank, I would be having a very long hard look at this. It really sounds like a candidate to knock down and rebuild with everything in the proper place, as long as the site has enough room to do that. If you want to keep the traditional look you can use the original stone for the external skin of a new building.

Which country is this in? In Scotland SEPA are taking a way too relaxed view, I know of at least 2 old systems that don't comply with the General binding Rules either for location or discharging into a watercourse. Basically they are not interested unless someone raises a pollution issue. I doubt building control would be that relaxed though, so if there is no suitable location on your land to locate a proper treatment plant the correct distance from the house and the watercourse then you are either stuck with things as they are and keep quiet, or seek permission from an adjacent land owner to site something on their land. Building control do have some leeway to be flexible, i.e. I know one house near here where they allowed the TP closer to the burn than would normally be allowed as there was nowhere else.

If it is a storage heater then yes, the central storage boiler is likely to retain heat better than a normal storage heater until you pump the hot water round to the radiators. But as i understand it this one is not storage. It is just a collection of electric heaters in a tank, i think they go up to about 12kW, that heats the water as it goes round. So it draws electricity when heating the radiators and not when it doesn't. Pretty useless on a TOU tariff unless your house is really well insulated. Most I see are on a normal single rate. My point is, if you don't have the advantage of storage and a TOU tariff, I fail to see what an electric boiler gives you that individual electric panel heaters does not.

Electric boilers have always struck me as the most stupid idea. Why heat water with direct electricity in a big box and then pipe it to rooms via pipes into radiators? If you are going to heat with direct electric, just fit panel heaters. WHY the complication of an electric boiler? And most installs of an electric boiler just use a direct heated HW tank with an immersion heater, the boiler play no part. It would be just as absurd to use the boiler to pipe heat via an indirect coil to a hot water tank. The only electric boilers that make any sense are electric storage boilers and only if combined with something like an E10 tariff so you can heat the water at cheap rate and draw it at any time to heat the house. I suppose the only good point is having the pipes and radiators there, then there is a chance of relatively easily converting to an air source Heat Pump?

It sounds like the outside tqps are from mains water but not via your internal stopcock. Have a look around the house is there any other stopcock in the ground? You are looking for a little round or square usually black lid which when opened reveals a hole down to a stopcock. If the outside taps came from the wells, there would need to be a pump somwhere.

Can you post a normal picture of this corner for context please. something is making it very cold right in that corner.

Can we see an outside picture zoomed out a little or a close up of the detail of the sides from outside? That window should be set about 30mm or so further out from the roof. It is an installation error. The bottom flashing from the window should be level with the top of the tiles and then formed to follow the contour of the tiles. In your case the bottom of the window is recessed too far forcing that bodged bending of the flashing. If it is too low at the bottom then it is probably also too low for the side flashing to work as designed.

Assuming you are having a masonry underbuild then what you have is similar to us. Masonry footings, timber floor resting on the sole plate, then a timber ring beam around the perimiter and the timber frame built from that. Easy to detail insulation and air tightness to be seamless between floor and wall.

We have a wet room with tiled floor. The choice of tiles was based on what was likely to not be slippy when wet, and we chose rough tiles that resemble sandpaper when dry not flat and shiny.

But Spiders. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/travel/news/blow-to-reeves-as-endangered-spiders-halt-government-s-plans-for-1-300-new-homes/ar-AA1z5Vfw I thought this sort of nonsense had stopped under the present government?

Yes it does. you put the sheets perpendicular to the joists and one sheet spans between 6 joists.

Nothing wrong with the UH-8 it does what it says and it provides a relay contact call for heat which can be wired as a volt free contact or a switched live, or anything else you care to imagine. I would be very surprised if you went to the trouble of changing the UH-8 for something else if it would be any different.

One for HW, one for radiators, one for UFH. If it can't do that, choose a different boiler.

the one thing that put me right off that website is no mention of retail or wholesale pricing, just get £7500 off with the BUS grant, total price paid from as little as £500

On the subject of welfare units. When i started our build, I had nothing on site. I told the builder our present house 100 metres from the build was available for all their needs. Not one of them took up that offer.

For that sort of roof you will not be using trusses, but a cut roof hung from a ridge beam. To get that completely open gable end without a central support pillar will need steels to form the roof line (from which the ridge beam can be supported)

So what DOES the boiler have instead? I have never seen a boiler that does not have some form of call for heat. That is that terminal block in your diagram above? Is that the boiler? Wiring centre? UFH controller? What ate the terminals F and L? Perhaps post a link to the instructions for your particular boiler? None of the information so far is making sense (to me)

It is so random. BC had no problem with my self installed stove. About the only thing that they were over like a rash was "distance to combustibles" measurements. But even that they were disorganised. I had sent them a copy of the installation instructions and shown them the measurements, but then had to send them the individual page showing the distances, and pictures with a tape measure to prove it complied. Just something for the file I guess.

Old small touring caravan, cheaper, easier to find and transport, everything is 12V or gas. Fit a solar panel to keep the 12V battery charged. And buy a small "suitcase" generator for tool charging, tool charging takes a tiny amount of power 6KVA would be noisy and way over powered.

Can you post a higher resolution copy of the pictures. Even if I zoom in they are too blurred to read. Or more simply, a boiler won't have a "com / no" connection, it will normally expect a switched L to fire it so connect L to Com and then the NO will be a switched L to fire the boiler. This is what happens often when a plumber connects something a little out of the ordinary, he does not understand it and cannot work it out. (no offence to certain plumbers on here who are well capable of integrating different kit)

This reminds me of a cooling unit I encountered in someones conservatory a long time ago. It was an air to water heat pump set up for cooling. It drew cold mains water into an internal tank. The cooling of the room warmed up that water. When it reached a certain temperature, it just dumped that now warm water down the drain and refilled with more cold water. It made it a simple to install all in one unit. I guess water regs outlawed this "wasteful" practice? But it was noisy having the heat pump in the room.