ProDave

You can get swept bends for conduit which will work https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145467409061? Secure the conduit runs well, you don't want it coming apart if trying to fish a wire down later when it is inaccessible. Consider solvent welding the fittings to make sure.

My guess is no. You would need to reduce the height of that to be level with the road, which then creates the very real possibility you would be undermining the foundations of the house unless you are SURE they are a lot deeper than that. Then the parking created would be parallel to the house not what is more normal. It's one of those "I would not start from here" situations. I would never have bought that house because of this issue.

Again hard to visualise without plan and section drawings, but could you not get one more step on the first flight onto a 900mm deep half landing meaning one less step on the second flight and a larger landing at the top? Play with the on line stair design tools on stairbox and many others to find a solution.

Excellent news. I would peg it out on the ground with a length of rope and take photographs to show how much of which hedge might need a trim. I guess the thing here is not really needing to actually go and trim the hedges, but to get the condition removed from planning, and to know if the hedges are left to grow too close to the road, you can get them trimmed.

What nobody has mentioned yet, is if you cut any of the pipes to reconfigure the run to move the drain, then make sure you chamfer the outer edge of the cut so it feeds into the seal gently (with the correct silicon lubricant as already mentioned) Trying to insert a blunt square edge cut is a common reason for damaging the seal.

I know people say these Charles Austen pumps are the best but I am not convinced. They are basically a permanent magnet osciliating inside an coil which created a 50hz alternating magnetic field. The diaphragm at each end, is not only what does the pumping but that is ALL that supports the armature which is all the time trying to pull itself in contact with the stator. As soon as the diaphragm starts to age the first sign of a split and the magnetic force of the armature just tears it quickly and then the armature is stuck rubbing against the stator and hence all the red dust. It can go from seemingly working to broken very quickly. The other thing that annoys me the CE pumps I have only found the service kit as a package which included a new permanent magnet armature. It seems impossible just to buy the diaphragms. Other makes of similar pump do let you buy the individual parts and for less money. My argument in my other thread was for the price of the service kit I could by a complete pump of a different design. It was just that I could not find anybody reporting it works in this application. Now I know this piston pump works I am tempted to buy a second one to keep for when the first fails, which it will do at some point. And when it does I will dismantle it and see if there is any repair prospect, I suspect there won't be. I make weekly inspection (when I remember) which is basically unscrew the lid on the emptying point of the Conder and make sure I can hear it blowing bubbles. Then I know all is well.

Almost certainly it will be the diaphragms that have perished. They can be serviced, but I replaced them in mine and the replacements only lasted a year, very disappoionting. I had a thread on it recently and instead I chose to swap it for a very cheap Chinese piston pump to see if that was more reliable than a diaphragm pump. One thing I did because I did not know how long mine had not been blowing was contrived a long air line and connected my garage compressor to blow through it in case any sludge had settled, before connecting the new pump.

You need to find something you know the distance of like the width of your plot and scale from that to work out the actual scale.

That looks like a wet room so if it was done properly there would have been a proper tanking membrane on the floor and lapped part way up the walls before the tiles went down. So most likely a leak from the waste pipe?

What about if you measure to the middle of the road?

Lucky escape. I had considered "investing" in one of their schemes but decided the payback was way too long.

I would go onto your site with some string and stakes and physically mark out where the new entrance is going to go and use the string to mark out on the ground where the visibility splay falls. That will show once and for all if the neighbours hedge needs a haircut or not and hopefully show that is all that is needed and it does not encroach into your neighbours garden. If that is the case you are good to go. Well done for getting confirmation of ownership and you have the documentation now to argue the case if anyone raises a concern when you go back to planning. Also argue the point of where the visibility splay ends, ours is a 3 metre wide single track road and the specification was to a point in the middle of the road 60 metres from the entrance. The distance will vary with the sped limit on the road.

I don't have an issue with technology when there is a need for it. But so many things seem far more complex than they need to be. e.g. My LG ASHP has built in timer functions, but I found it so complicated to work out how to use them, I did not, and contrived the timing functions to work from a perfectly ordinary central heating time clock, something most people understand. Don't get me started on electric panel heaters and LOT20 (an EU thing and god knows why it seems that is still all you can buy in the UK? ) I fitted several for customers and many I removed after just a few days or weeks as the average non tech savvy UK consumer just could not understand the complicated menu needed to be mastered just to turn an electric panel heater on and off. Computers and phones are all well and good and they serve us well. BUT when you get a new computer or a new phone, remember the hours / days you spend getting it all as you like it? That is why I rarely upgrade such things, preferring to keep them in use long after most people tell me they are obsolete, and when I do upgrade it is a larger jump rather that regular updates for something just a little bit better. Home automation would make me shudder, what of one bit went wrong? How easy would it be to replace that bit and quickly get it reconfigured exactly as it was, even if this happened after 10 years when it is likely your old one is obsolete and the new replacement is not the same so not a drop in replacement?

Looking at the last picture it looks like the top of the door is too far out of the frame and it looks to be so across it's whole width (though the picture does not extend to the hinge end) So surely it is the hinges that need adjusting top and middle hinge pulled in to the frame.

I would tile under the door lining personally. If new build fit door linings after tiling. If existing cut bottom of door linings off. Same with skirtings, don't tile up to them, tile up to bare wall with expansion gap left and fit (refit) skirtings to cover perimiter expansion gap.

WHO is asking for the EICR to be revised? Normally when new work is done, either an EIC or MWC is issued and usually both will have the limitation the testing done only covers the circuits added or altered. If it is e.g. the local council asking for an EIC for instance for a rental property, they seem to make up their own rules regarding validity and even who can issue them, completely different to that set out in BS7671 Wiring regs

Then I would tell your architect that any revised plans MUST uses that long established access, and his job is to make a layout work using that access before you go to planning again.

Lots of issues here. Does the plot yet have PP? even if it is not what you actually want, there is talk of a different entrance without the visibility requirement. Does that access actually exist physically? Has the revised plan with the relocated access been submitted? Has it been refused? We had a similar issue that planning tried to impose a 90 metre visibility splay and require us to demonstrate control over that. This if course would be impossible as much of it was over neighbours land. The issue was solved when I found a nearby recent application on the same road that was passed with only a 60 metre visibility requirement, and no requirement to demonstrate control over it. I asked the planners to justify why our plot required different visibility requirements. They could not. So ours got passed with the same requirements as the other nearby permission. And here is the thing, NOBODY has ever checked it. So search other passed applications nearby and find one with less visibility requirement. The issue of the boundary not matching the edge of the road. Out solicitor brought this up when we bought our plot. In our case when the land last change ownership it was accessed by a private road with the boundary of the plot being the edge of the private road. The road had since been adopted. Our solicitor was meticulous to verify the public road now adopted is indeed in the same place as the previous private road, otherwise a ransom strip situation might have applied.

Well you have plenty to play with, reduce the ceiling height in the rooms below to a more normal (and easier to build) 2400 and that's an additional 360mm to play with in the loft conversion which will solve all your problems of joist depth, staircase rise etc.

I disagree. I have 13 steps to rise our 2440 room height plus the 300mm joist thickness, and the rise of each stair was still less than maximum. Or do English regs give you a smaller maximum rise than Scottish? What is your ceiling height of the room below?

My take is RJ45's are tedious to terminate, so I didn't terminate them all. I just terminate them and put them into use as needed. Just make sure there are plenty to all rooms where you think you will need them AND where you don't. A good place to hide them until you find a use for them in in a service void next to 13A sockets. If you need one pop out the adjacent socket box and fish for it. So far I have only put 2 into use, but I don't have cameras etc. Almost every thing works on wifi.

Shorten the stairs. You have 14 steps there it should easily be possible to get that to 13 and possibly even to 12 (depending on your lowered ceiling height below) by using the maximum rise per stair. Then the maximum pitch to give you the steepest , shortest stair allowed.

Try dowsing rods and have a walk around

Is 1.8M enough over the stairs? I thought it was 2M on the centreline of the stairs (perhaps that is only Scotland?)

So you have your neighbours soakaway in you plot? Where is YOUR soakaway going?