ProDave

I didn't even screw mine down, just glued it. It depends if you think the wood will warp or not? See what I mean about the sill going into a slot each side cut into the plasterboard.

Am I seeing a gap down into a cavity between the window and the silver foil? If so that wants addressing first. I just cut a strip from the plasterboard each side so the sill slides in and fill around it afterwards and mine were just stuck down.

If that is where your soil pope for the WC is going to emerge through the floor then you are going to struggle to get the WC close enough to the wall. Our downstairs WC is a close coupled type and the edge of the soil pipe connector is touching the wall, and it fits well with a standard rigid pan connector. I cannot see how it would work without forcing the whole pan and cistern away from the wall in your situation. What is below that? What can you change? Though I generally hate them, I think the best bet to get the WC as close to the wall as possible is one of those long flexible pan connectors terminated at or below floor level. Alternatively if all posi joists, then you could route the soil pipe to the other side of the room, if that is joisted differently that would allow you to get the pipe closer to the wall?

Is this subject to building control? If so that may dictate the spaces you need? How far in are you? too late to change to a wet room for the shower area?

You roof has been extended when the garage and extension was added. The "joist" you talk about is the original end purlin from the original roof structure. It is not functioning as a purlin any more, there is nothing attached to it. As to whether it could be removed? That is a question for a Structural Engineer. Yours appears to say no. I would be interested to know why. Perhaps it is performing the task of a tie bar to prevent the purlins front and back that are still under load from spreading apart? If so providing alternative means to prevent spreading is what should be considered?

I did mine a few days ago, my usual 1/3 bleach 2/3 water in a hand sprayer. Used about half a bottle of bleach in the process. I chose a dry day with rain forecast next day to wash it all off and it is all clean again. but it was nowhere near as green as in the pictures above. I do this about once a year now.

That has changed then. It used to be 600 centres for 12.5mm (which is what we have) and 400mm centres for 9mm PB (which we did in a previous house) not that anyone uses 9mm PB now.

If I was the neighbour I would have kept an eye on things and raised the non centre issue as soon as it became apparent. Also I would have been asking the roofer for s stack of spare tiles to match the old ones. The problem now if they were to try and move that joint more central, all the old tiles have probably gone in a skip, or been sold?

The hard wired interlink will be the same so old and new generation alarms work together. But it is increasingly common for them to be wireless linked.

The later Aico ones that we have are mains powered and interlinked. It is not clear if the internal batter is rechargeable or a 10 years lithium. Regardless they all have a "replace by" date 10 years from manufacture.

The Aico interconnect works at 9V dc. Is still works and the interconnected alarms still sound if the 230V is off and they are working on their backup batteries.

Is the chimney offset? Or is the roof joint not on the party line?

"Helps maintain room temperature unlike cheaper alternatives such as rockwool" tells me all I need to know about the designers.

Where I lived as a boy we had a similar shared ownership drive, with us at the end having a garage. The other houses either did not have a car or parked the car in their own back garden so they did not block the drive. Anyone could come and go without being in the way of others.

I recall the blissful ignorance of my first build 20 years ago. The lorry with the septic tank arrived, a simple quite light fibreglass "onion" the driver rolled it off the flatbed, it landed on the grass and stopped rolling before it got to the burn. Remarkably it did not break. Nobody discussed and I never thought to ask about delivery and unloading. This tine it was a heavier treatment plant and I did not want to take the risk of damaging it, and my little digger would not go high enough to lift it off a lorry. But the digger did indeed lower it into the hole.

That's the one. That's what I would choose if building now.

Have a look at the company (someone will be along to fill in the gap in my memory) that will supply an ASHP and all kit for "free" using the grant money, leaving you just to pay for the install.

Delivery on large items can make or break a deal. When ordering a treatment plant, most said I would be responsible for unloading, so would need a telehandler or forklift. But ordering it through a bilders merchant not only got a cheaper price, but delivery on their own wagon and offloaded by it's hiab.

All such documentation needs to be sent by a tracked postage service that gives you a proof of delivery.

Your work in the lane, is really just trying to use the lane as a "roof" to keep ALL water off the actual slab below it to hide the leak. As @crispy_wafer says you need to excavate around the offending window and seal the joint between slab and upstand to death.

So it sounds like when using immersion to top up heating because the HP can't cope or the settings are sub optimal, it relies on the temperature probe to control the temperature. I would not be happy with using that immersion with an EDDI without first fitting a normal thermostat with a temperature dial to it. It is quite possible that the reason the over heat tripped was because you put too much heat into it with the EDDI and the water reached the trip level because there was no other thermostat to stop it. On more than one occasion (like a recent holiday) the tank had maxed out at the set thermostat temperature as no HW was being used and a lot got exported in a few days. With no conventional thermostat on the heater you had a potentially dangerous situation. I would expect somewhere, hopefully very prominent, in the user instructions, with that configuration warning you not to use that immersion heater for anything else.

That's interesting. I have never seen one that does not have a temperature dial. But the standard Cotherm thermostat used in almost every other UVC with a conventional thermostat and the over heat trip should fit as a direct replacement. Is there a separate thermostat? I think Megaflow for instance have the thermostat remote from the heating element.

And bear in mind the fire implications, cables should be supported with metal clips so in the event of a fire they don't hang down endangering fire fighters.

I did my own plasterboarding. Whenever I had an offcut, I laid it out in clear view. Then whenever I needed a cut, I first looked at my stock of offcuts before cutting a new sheet. I was staggering just how small my waste pile was at the end of the job and how many of my offcuts got used elsewhere. Contrast that to when the boarder is not paying, you see lots of very large offcuts in the skip at the end.

If they are real bullies complaining for no reason, then word quickly gets around here and nobody will do work for them.