ProDave

Do you have any test gear like even a simple multimeter?

It seems NIE have some strange ways of doing things. I would not put the earth rod and pit under the cabinet, where the ground is going to be drier. I would put it off to one side of the cabinet with a duct to feed the earth cable through. But i also get the impression you must do things their way, even if their way defies all logic.

Normally you can get to the terminals of the heating element from the back to check it without removing it. Try re positioning the hose so it goes up from the machine to a high point then back down to the drain connection.

Yes it takes a genious to formulate a law that gives the headline "0% VAT on insulation" to give the impression that is what they want, but make it so that is only on fitted insulation so not many will actually bother. Or to put it another way "lets get some good headlines without it actually costing us anything or actually making much difference.

Well I never. I assumed all these sorts of baths had been designed to be easy to fit. I never for once thought someone would be so stupid to design this one the way it is.

Yes but looking at the profile of the bath, I would say that is the top of the bath I am seeing on the right of the picture? So the trap would not be there. Sorry I am just having a dumb moment. I would be contacting the manufacturer, I have never seen one where you have to cut a hole for the trap. What do the instructions say? Do they say you need to cut a hole in the floor for the trap to hang down through? Seems a pretty rubbish design if that is so.

That photo makes no sense to me.

That's my point, these baths should not need a hole in the floor to accommodate the trap, it should all fit in the space inside the base tub. the only hole needed in the floor is for the flexible hose and you can easily make that miss the joists. I took a dislike to the flexible hose thing, I used a standard low profile trap, attached the required bits of solvent weld pipe and lowered the bath into it's base. Then I connected the waste from below. I know doing it that way if I ever need to remove the bath I will have to cut a trap in the utility room ceiling to disconnect the solid waste first.

Yes that's just as the trap kit for ours, the actual trap does not extend below the bottom of the bath surround so no need for a hole in the floor for that. You then have that flexible hose coming off the trap and that is the bit that goes down through the floor to connect to your waste pipes. You have lots of flexibility (literally) with where you drill the hole for that to avoid your joists.

Are you sure you are not over thinking this? We have a similar bath and they connect with a waste fitting that fits entirely inside the enclosed bottom tub. I actually changed the way it was connected because I did not like the flexible hose they supplied, but it should not need the trap to descend through the floor. The actual trap on ours is right above a joist but that does not stop it working with the pipe going down through the floor next to the trap.

A simple resistance check with a multimeter will confirm if the heating element is okay or not. It is normal for the drain hose to run high up the sink unit and then down to the drain point, this should stop syphoning of the drain water. Does it always empty fully then somehow refill slightly over a period of time?

Picture of bath?

You just turn the fan switch on before entering the room as you do the light. Or a pull cord switch inside the room for the fan.

My favourite was a switch next to the light switch for the fan. Then you can choose fan but no light when showering in the day, and light but no fan when you just want to use the loo in the night.

ALL of them. They will all compromise the building from it's original design, and in an extreme case building control could refuse to issue a completion certificate if they are not happy. They are all easy to correct, some at no cost (item C for instance, that is just poor workmanship)

This had gone quiet for a few weeks, but it is still ongoing, they are now wanting to come and survey my garden.

Check your building regs, e.g. if this was supposed to be an accessible bathroom in Scotland it would fail most of the "activity spaces"

We have a rainfall head that drops water vertically in the middle of the shower space, and a normal rose on a riser rail in the middle of the short wall of the shower. The shower area is 900mm by 1200mm and the shower screens are both 700mm wide that leaves a 300mm gap at the corner. Not very much splashes out or very far through that. These were shower screens from B&Q. These were cheap and readiliy available. The alternative if we really wanted taller and wider would be buy bespoke glass from a glass supplier specifying dimensions and holes etc and attach the hinges ourselves. We too the cheap and easy option and they do the job well. Oddly enough these glass screens seem to get dreadful reviews, but the issue with them is when used above a bath, the rubber strip that comes with them is very poor at actually sealing water. but we don't use them like that and don't even use the silly rubber strip so they work well.

Make the floor a wet room and use a wet room former, then a pair of hinged glass shower doors to stop water splashing very far. A bit like what i did That's a pair of glass hinged screens intended to go on the top of a bath, but used as shower screens, set about 100mm above the floor. Not much splashes over and not much splashes under. They are there to stop the wooden towel storage and vanity unit getting wet and I am sure that is closer than your bathroom door is to the shower. When not in use as a shower, the screens fold flat against the wall leaving the room open.

I experimented with "summer bypass" when I first installed mine (different make to the one being discussed) and I found the window when you could actually usefully bypass the heat exchanger was very limited. As pointed out, when it is warmer outside than in, you want the heat exchanger back in circuit. I found the simplest way to cool an overheated house was keep it shut in the day to keep the warm air out, and keep the heat exchanger in circuit to stop drawing in warm air. then in the evening when the temperature drops open up all the windows for a night purge of cool air to cool the house down for the next day. Once cooled down a well insulated house will stay cool for the next day when closed up again to keep the heat out. Then you only need to consider active cooling if the night time temperature does not drop below what you consider a comfortable temperature.

Yes it must hurt when something like that costs so much. My pet gripe is if you need a new PCB for a boiler, something that looking at it and with the components it has would cost about £10 if you were buying it to fit in a television, has a silly price tag.

Or this? https://jsenergi.eu/ivt-spare-parts/by-model/ivt-airx-50/rumstermostat-rt-2000-rc100-lcd.html

Any good? https://jsenergi.co.uk/ivt-can-room-controller-lcd.html

They don't look anything special to me probably some form of pine.

Our last house, built nearly 20 years ago to ordinary standards of the time had wet UFH upstairs and down and it needed it and it generally worked very well. The present house we finished lat year is built to much higher standards, close to passive house, nice and air tight and well insulated. This one we did not fit any heating upstairs apart from UFH in the bathrooms to take the chill off a tiled floor. This had proved entirely satisfactory even up here in a cold Highland winter, the bedrooms are always warm enough. In fact at times I get the complaint that the bathroom floors are cold and "it is not working" That is because the bathrooms are up to temperature and the UFH has shut off and the floor cooled down.