ProDave

That is what I was trying to say, you should see a diagonal line on the roof where the main roof steps back to the extension roof. The front elevation suggests is is just the main roof sailing over the extension. You can be forgiven that mistake if you did them yourself, but if you paid someone, sack them.

I am not sure your drawing is correct, who drew it? With the extension stepped back from the main house I would expect to see a distinct line in the roof stepping back that your drawings don't show?

If you really really want the room above, let them reject it and try an appeal?

What capacity supply did you apply for? and on who's recommendation was that? How many existing houses supplied by the present transformer?

What is the context? New buiild? rebuild? What did you ask for? what did they offer? We dodged this when getting a quote for our new build and they offered us a 12KVA supply from the existing transformer to which we replied that will do nicely. And it does.

They come in different levels of "ovaliity" that one is designed for a slope of 0 degrees to 30 degrees so should fit your roof. That's what I used in the mobile home. I used the 45 degree version for the flue through the house roof, that is a more elongated oval shape. Fill the gap with some rockwool or similar non flammable insulation.

Fit one of these to the inside of the ceiling, it will tidy up the hole and secure the pipe (choose size to match your pipe, don't just buy that one) https://www.flue-pipes.com/finishing-plate-30-125.html (this covers item 3 and 4 on your list)

Yes you could spend ages to engineer a better solution such as embeding a metal thread into the pole. Or just glue it. Actually i would first try running a 5.5mm drill down the hole and inserting a red 6mm rawl plug for the screw to screw into.

Typical rubbish design (don't be fooled by a posh make) A screw self tapping into a hole in a bit of wood that has worn and the screw now falls out. Post a very close up / macro shot of where the 2 bits meet and someone might suggest an alternative way of securing them. I would be looking personally at trilling a hole right through and a nut and bolt, or simply a larger screw but would need to see the details of what is there first.

That means it is losing heat like having a 25w heating element under your sink. So it will consume (thanks to that heat loss) 25wh in an hour and 600wh or 0.6kWh in a 24 hour period, just to make up the heat that it has lost. so at present electricity prices it will be costing about 15p per day just to keep the water inside it hot and ready for use.

How are you planning to use the worktops? "butchers block" suggests you will be using it as a chopping surface?

Use standard handrail newel posts and spindles sold in treated wood for decking.

Which makes me ask the unanswered question again. Is this raw sewage leading to a communal treatment plant? Or treated effluent from multiple individual treatment units going toa communal soakaway or into a watercourse?

It's a shame you did that, that gives them ammunition to blame you. If you had just left it all untouched and undisturbed and it leaked, it would be much more clear cut. WHY did you replace it? Because it was leaking?

I take it you have notified the issue to the neighbours that own / use the pipe? What have they said they will do? If you want to get nasty, report a pollution incident to SEPA

So is this field drain a solid pipe, perforated pipe? Have you dug down to find it. I can see SEPA's issue, you are asking to discharge to a pipe that you don't presently know where it ends up. Do you even know which way it flows?

I take it this field drain is an open mostly dry ditch? My experience was SEPA don't like that. We got permission to discharge to the burn but only after measuring the flow rate at a dry time of year to work out the likely dilution rate, if it's dry a lot of the time there won't be any dilution. Is there a proper flowing watercourse within reach?

You need to work out if this is actually raw sewage on it's way to a treatment system or the mains sewer, or the outflow from a treatment system to a soakaway. If this but of ground that is flooding is the lowest point of the land in the vicinity, it might just be the soakaway, if that is what it is, is overwhelmed and simply flooding as it is incapable of handling the volume of liquid put into it (and they knew that hence why you were not allowed to add to it)

You should not need to if the air tight layer behind the plasterboard has been done properly.

I wired a straw bale house some years ago. That was heated with a WBS that claimed to put 10kW to water but only 2kW to the room, and that heated a massive thermal store (1000litres iirc) and the thermal store ran under floor heating for when the stove was not burning. Unfortunately I don't know the make or model of stove.

Whatever you do, talk to the stone supplier / fitter first. Ours were adamant that they would only fit a sink hung from under the worktop, not mounted in the sink unit first.

Why do you want them in every bedroom? Building regs does not ask for that. You can get AICO a LOT cheaper on ebay, just check the "replace by" dates to make sure you are not buying old stock. Aico also do a switch unit that will silence them, test them, or identify which one has set them all off.

Assuming the garage has it's own consumer unit you connect the inverter to that. You need a generation meter, AC isolator and DC isolator to connect it all up. A picture of the meter box and consumer unit would be handy. You don't need an MCS installer unless you want to claim the pittance of the SEG payment, you are better off aiming to self use as much as you can and forget that. a picture of the roof would be good as well.

If in doubt, turn the whole house off then back on. How do you adjust that? or is it a "dumbed down" (safe) shower that won't let you turn it up too hot?

It means when it's -10 outside and +20 inside the house will need a continuous heat input of 3.4kW or averaged over 24 hours 81.6kWh Sizing the heat pump, you have to allow for it also heating hot water (when it won't be heating the house. So a 5kW ASHP for instance, assume it will be heating hot water for 2 hours per day, and lets guess that it might only manage 4kW output at the low temperature, it could deliver 88kWh so should be adequate. But would need to run almost 24/7 to manage when it is that cold. So if you wanted the heating off over night for instance you might consider something a little larger. I don't imagine it gets that cold for very long in Norwich so you might not need that much heat very often.