ProDave

Do you have a site plan perhaps from the sales particulars? If it has PP there would be some plans with the planning application. If you are concerned at the distance from a neighbours existing soakaway, then a far bigger problem is likely to be where would you put a treatment plant and the soakaway for the house you would build on this plot? Don't commit to buying it until you have found a solution.

A neighbours relatives have been visiting this last week. On the hottest day last week I saw them going for a walk down the road with coats on. They had just arrived from Dubai.

You definitely need to get the old tanks pumped out, then try it with just clean water. If it still does not drain away, then the soakaway / drainage field is clogged, if so time for a lot of digging.

Are you only looking at fixed price deals? All suppliers should offer the capped standard variable rate but none really want to as they will be losing money, so you might have to insist your present supplier lets you drop onto the SVR. Not many suppliers are taking on new customers, but if you do fond a good deal with Octopus, PM me for a referal code that will get you £50 credit.

Similar to us except we have 100mm wood fibre board on the outside of the rafters, making it a warm roof and no need for the ventilation , and 200mm between rafters. But no PIR layer.

What exactly is your wall make up? Our calculated decrement delay time was 13 hours and it certainly seems to be close to that, our house maintains a pretty constant temperature only warming up or cooling down slowly. You need to eliminate solar gain as the culprit so even if you can make temporary exterior blinds to prove a point e.g even something as simple (on a dry day) as cut a large piece of cardboard and tape that to the outside of the velux windows for a day to block the sun out completely.

I have a portable air conditioning unit, the sort that just exhausts it's warm air through a big pipe. I found it next to useless. Yes it is nice when it is blowing cold air at you, but it was way way too noisy to keep running over night in a bedroom, and insufficient cooling power to meaningfully reduce the air temperature enough for it to stay cold when you turn it off. I see nobody has mentioned a night purge? This is what we do on the occasions it gets to hot. Once the evening / night temperature outside is less than inside temperature, throw all the windows open to let the house cool down overnight, then shut them all in the morning. With a long decrement delay the house should stay cool through the heat of the day. Repeat each night. Not much help if the night temperature does not go below 25. The "mistake" a lot of people make is "gosh it's hot, lets open a window" when the outside temperature is even hotter, you just let the heat in quicker.

That is more like October figures after the next rise in the energy price cap? July SVR should be about 29p for electricity (not sure about gas)

When I did my solar PV at the old house, I notched the tiles that would otherwise have rested on and be lifted up by the bracket. Easy to do with an angle grinder.

What is anyone doing chipping something 3" diameter? That is good firewood. What a waste.

And there is also a big difference between a pump impeller and an impeller for a generating turbine. I have an old dead submirsible pump somewhere, but it's impellor is just completely flat blades, no "scoop" to them, and they are a lot smaller than the cavity they run in. I struggle to get my head around how that can be "efficient" but suspect that allows the pump to work at differing heads and flow rates rather than usinin minimum electricity, and feel if I tried to use the impeller from that, it would be very inefficient as a lot of the water would simply go around the blades rather than push them. Water wheels are a lot easier to understand.

This will be a LOT smaller than that. I am not talking of a pelton wheel which technically runs "dry" and gets propelled by a very fine very high speed jet of water. Rather I am talking of a "wet" running turbine. With no load, the peripheral of the turbine would pretty much rotate at the speed of the incoming water, i have not measured that, but by going small the idea is to get a much higher rpm. I think the half speed you talk of, is the optimum power out will be when you load the turbine so it is running at half no load speed. I keep finding lots of people who have built DIY small scale turbines but very little detail. so I am to a large extent guessing what I want and hoping to find a project that worked with proper details to replicate it. Lots of people with their DIY turbines showing the voltage they generate, but very few putting a load on and quoting what power they get.

That could be problematic. The shaft is 6mm diameter, but it is a D shape with a flat, and I would be expecting to drill and tap a thread for a grub screw to tighten down on the flat on the shaft. That seems unlikely then? Could you print a D shaped hole and I would just glue it onto the shaft?

So since I posted that comment, for the last week I have been turning the main television off at the plug (and it's surround sound system) when not in use. And this weeks "non heating" use is down to 67kWh, so 8kWh down. To early to say if that reduction is all down to the tv on standby or something else, but I will continue the trial to see. I have now extended this test to the other big tv and it's surround sound system also turned properly off when not in use.

Another here who self installed my mvhr. If choosing this route, I highly recommend using a radial ducting system (BPC sell this) where each inlet and outlet has it's own pipe back to a plenum box near the MVHR unit. Much easier than rigid ducting and branches. For setting up, the forum had an anemometer to loan for measuring the flow rates at each terminal, I am not sure if it is still available or if it got "lost"? Here is my blog entry http://ardross.altervista.org/Wilowburn/mvhr-ducting/

So the government advice is don't expect your salary to rise to keep up with inflation. Yeah right, we should all just accept a low pay rise and shut up and watch our standard of living plummet. with government advice like that I have very little confidence they have the slightest clue how to solve this problem.

So I would be looking for something a bit like this Outside diameter 75mm, height 38mm and the bore of the central hole 6mm Is that possible to 3d print? if so I would suggest the inner hole a bit smaller and I will bore it out to fit the motor

Run the stack up the corner of the hall behind the front door as planned. Up into the right corner of the bathroom where it will branch off to the WC. It must continue about 1 metre higher where it terminates in an AAV. That corner bit will be boxed in, but if your drawing is accurate you have a back to wall WC so you will be boxing in a section of wall anyway to hide the cistern. This reinforces my earlier belief, if you had just carried the stack all the way to the roof it would have emerged through the original roof not the lower roof with the velux windows.

For 3 phase you want a 5 core steel wire armoured cable. 16mm absolute minimum if a short run but 25mm would be better. It needs feeding at the kiosk with a switch fuse, 80A to discriminate from suppliers 100A fuse. Best terminate the SWA in a large adaptable box in the house, so you can take a single phase to a consumer unit and have the others terminated for future use.

The recession has already started. The last 2 months the economy contracted. It's not called a recession yet because that takes 3 months of contraction, but I am not expecting a sudden turn around so am sure the recession has started. Perhaps someone will do some creative accounting to show a tiny growth in the next month just to avoid calling it out as a recession just yet? High inflation, and low interest rates is a bad mix (for people with savings) consumers are already reducing non essential spending so they can pay for the essential things that are going up but their wages are not going up anything like fast enough to match. Train drivers on strike next week, no doubt the first of many such strikes as workers demand pay rises to match inflation, SWMBO just voted against a 2% pay offer. I have a bit more control, being self employed I put my hourly rate up 15% earlier in the year, first rise for many years. I thought we were heading for a winter of discontent, looks like it's starting earlier as a summer of discontent? I am surprised the housing market has not collapsed? Who wants to commit to a big mortgage with rising inflation, rising (too slowly) interest rates and WWIII looming? The message from the BOE is we are all being naughty people and spending too much fuelling inflation so we must raise interest rates to punish you naughty consumers who dare to borrow money so spend. Yet interest rates are still at "emergency low" levels and if they went up to the levels really needed, i.e. close to inflation rate, that would really crash the economy and there would be a lot of mortgage defaults and repossessions. It is not high consumer spending causing the high inflation, so the traditional raise interest rates to slow spending is going to do nothing to stop fuel and food costs rising, so is futile (though I believe interest rates need to rise a LOT for other reasons) The truth is the economy has been propped up with unrealistic low interest rates for the last 14 years and we are now stuck with a weak economy that can't support proper interest rates. But then there is the conflicting messages about low unemployment and there are in fact more job vacancies than there are unemployed people, so in theory there should not be any unemployed? That makes this different to the 70's and 80's when there was real high unemployment. And now they are criticising the "economic inactive" How dare you decide you have had enough of working, you have enough savings and pensions so you retire. How dare you do such a thing? (next year for me). I am no economist, but I am glad I have no borrowing and soon to be out of the workplace, but the steady, comfortable, secure retirement I had been looking forward to is looking a lot less certain and things are looking very fragile indeed. I am a worried man.

Do you really like that look out of your bedroom window? To me it looks like you need to run the lawnmower over it?

Absolutely. The only reason for being a member of such a scheme in England and Wales is so you can self certify for part P, which thankfully we don't have up here.

That is what I was trying to describe but without the luxury of doing a drawing. The lintel bridging the hole through the wall has to be higher to allow for it. I still don't understand if the stack pipe goes straight up from where it is shown in the corner of the existing hall behind the front door, how it is going to exit the lower roof with the velux windows? Surely it would just go up in the corner of the room above?

Sadly, being a member of the NICEIC does not appear to mean his is a "good" electrician. I hear lots of complaints about their members, and it appears even complaining to the NICEIC about a members work achieves nothing. In fact there is a rather cynical view that the only time NICEIC will actually do something, is if they find someone using their logo or claiming to be a member when they are not. Yes an EIC should have been issued, but the Schedule of test results is pretty much identical to what would be on an EIC. Yes it would be a C3 so it would still get a "satisfactory" outcome. Very poor that he did not discuss options with you. communication with the customer is important so they get what they want, or agree a compromise if what they want is not possible or at least very difficult.

Well done, you have done the landlords job for him.