ProDave

Do please let us know what he finds.

That's probably exhausted all I can think of by way of remote diagnosis. If the thermostat is open but it's not because the water is too hot and it is not because of the safety thermostat tripping then it sounds like it is broken. I think it really needs someone there to have a better look and really work out what is going on. Do you have an electrician nearby?

Ah school electronics. When I first encountered it, the school disco rig you dare not touch 2 different bits of metal at once. Earthing was not a concept that any previous person had bothered much about. And I remember the 2 big speaker stacks, they looked very professional until when you actually read the fancy writing on the nameplates it read "heapacrap" Being part of the disco crew had it's perks, even as 15 year olds, one of the teachers would deliver a pint of beer each to the disco crew. Then the stage lighting rig. When I first got there is was a bank of dirty great big rheostats strapped to a wall. This was modernised with solid state dimmers. To make the PCB's for these dimmer modules we didn't do any chemical etching, instead one of the engineering teachers merely stuck the blank board down to the milling table and removed the unwanted copper with a milling cutter to leave the tracks that were wanted. A patch panel based on 15A round pin plugs and sockets let you patch different dimmer modules on the desk to different lights. We had tremendous interference problems with the stage sound system when the lights were used, emc filtering was an unknown subject then. I remember pre one production we had to run some new cables through the roof void above the hall, crawling on planks between the steel trusses and just wood fibre ceiling panel boards between you and the floor of the hall way below. Nobody thought this was a dangerous thing for school children to do and nobody had heard of safety harnesses. Can you imagine any of this being allowed today?

That is showing open circuit so the top thermostat is open. That red item in the first picture I think is the thermostat. Is that a black button at the top between those 4 terminals? If you press it does it go click? Is there any mention in the manual of how to reset the over heat safety thermostat?

When you did the resistance measrements, was that at the 2 terminals actually on each of the heaters, or between the blue and brown of the incoming flex which will probably have landed at one of the thermostats? If the latter then the fault is not at the tank. Try and think of something common to both heaters, it would be unusual to have 2 faults together. It's not related to the RCD assuming the RCD turns on again okay?

Yes nail or screw heads popped. That usually happens if the screws were not tight so the board was not pulled tight to the timber, then it can move and pop the plaster off the screw heads. If there are only a few, remove the loose plaster, tighten the screw and skim over it again.

Our washing machine broke a few weeks back, motor armature burned out and I was not paying half the cost of a new machine for a new motor. Had a hell of a job finding one, so many places out of stock. I even got Howdens to price match Curry's only to then find out they could not supply one for 2 weeks. We ended up with an inferior, but cheaper machine from Argos as they were the only ones that could supply one in days rather than weeks.

Turn the power off, there is usually a double pole isolating switch where the flex from the immersion meets the wall. Then with the multimeter on ohms range measure resistance between brown and blue where the flex joins onto each heater and post the result. Post a photo as well so we can see what thermostat you have on the heater.

Do you have any test gear like even a simple multimeter?

It seems NIE have some strange ways of doing things. I would not put the earth rod and pit under the cabinet, where the ground is going to be drier. I would put it off to one side of the cabinet with a duct to feed the earth cable through. But i also get the impression you must do things their way, even if their way defies all logic.

Normally you can get to the terminals of the heating element from the back to check it without removing it. Try re positioning the hose so it goes up from the machine to a high point then back down to the drain connection.

Yes it takes a genious to formulate a law that gives the headline "0% VAT on insulation" to give the impression that is what they want, but make it so that is only on fitted insulation so not many will actually bother. Or to put it another way "lets get some good headlines without it actually costing us anything or actually making much difference.

Well I never. I assumed all these sorts of baths had been designed to be easy to fit. I never for once thought someone would be so stupid to design this one the way it is.

Yes but looking at the profile of the bath, I would say that is the top of the bath I am seeing on the right of the picture? So the trap would not be there. Sorry I am just having a dumb moment. I would be contacting the manufacturer, I have never seen one where you have to cut a hole for the trap. What do the instructions say? Do they say you need to cut a hole in the floor for the trap to hang down through? Seems a pretty rubbish design if that is so.

That photo makes no sense to me.

That's my point, these baths should not need a hole in the floor to accommodate the trap, it should all fit in the space inside the base tub. the only hole needed in the floor is for the flexible hose and you can easily make that miss the joists. I took a dislike to the flexible hose thing, I used a standard low profile trap, attached the required bits of solvent weld pipe and lowered the bath into it's base. Then I connected the waste from below. I know doing it that way if I ever need to remove the bath I will have to cut a trap in the utility room ceiling to disconnect the solid waste first.

Yes that's just as the trap kit for ours, the actual trap does not extend below the bottom of the bath surround so no need for a hole in the floor for that. You then have that flexible hose coming off the trap and that is the bit that goes down through the floor to connect to your waste pipes. You have lots of flexibility (literally) with where you drill the hole for that to avoid your joists.

Are you sure you are not over thinking this? We have a similar bath and they connect with a waste fitting that fits entirely inside the enclosed bottom tub. I actually changed the way it was connected because I did not like the flexible hose they supplied, but it should not need the trap to descend through the floor. The actual trap on ours is right above a joist but that does not stop it working with the pipe going down through the floor next to the trap.

A simple resistance check with a multimeter will confirm if the heating element is okay or not. It is normal for the drain hose to run high up the sink unit and then down to the drain point, this should stop syphoning of the drain water. Does it always empty fully then somehow refill slightly over a period of time?

Picture of bath?

You just turn the fan switch on before entering the room as you do the light. Or a pull cord switch inside the room for the fan.

My favourite was a switch next to the light switch for the fan. Then you can choose fan but no light when showering in the day, and light but no fan when you just want to use the loo in the night.

ALL of them. They will all compromise the building from it's original design, and in an extreme case building control could refuse to issue a completion certificate if they are not happy. They are all easy to correct, some at no cost (item C for instance, that is just poor workmanship)

This had gone quiet for a few weeks, but it is still ongoing, they are now wanting to come and survey my garden.

Check your building regs, e.g. if this was supposed to be an accessible bathroom in Scotland it would fail most of the "activity spaces"