ProDave

So that zone is not switching off. Perhaps that actuator is wired to the wrong zone or it is simply not screwed down onto the manifold properly.

Not what I expected. Under what planning rules are you building this? To be a "caravan" in UK planning law it needs to be moveable. That looks built very close to the ground, I don't see how you could ever move that. What sort of foundations is that on?

You will have to disconnect say the blue from the existing frost stat and add the pipe stat in series, requiring an extra terminal, e.g. a single choc block to make the joining connection.

Ne technical reason, all mine are above the manifold in the walls or ceiling void. I would be asking why he wants to keep them below the manifold.

As the title says, the amount the DNO can charge for renewable export network upgrades should reduce next year. https://www.cms-lawnow.com/ealerts/2022/06/distribution-connection-charges-to-be-reduced-ofgem-publishes-its-decision-on-the-access-and-forward Highlights from that document: From April 2023 the general rule will be that the connection charges paid under distribution network connection offers will be decreased, as the extent to which the necessary reinforcement to the existing network is recovered from the relevant customer will be reduced as against the current position. For connections serving demand for electricity (or mixed use connection sites with import and export) in most cases no reinforcement costs will be charged to the connecting customer. These changes are designed to encourage a more dynamic and flexible energy system, in particular through the way in which distribution network operators manage reinforcement to the existing distribution network. The reforms may also benefit domestic households installing heat pumps and electric vehicle chargers as the charge for any wider distribution network reinforcement will be removed in most circumstances. Perhaps it will be worth me looking again at a larger PV system after next April. I hope it will also remove the charge we currently have to pay even to get an export upgrade even considered.

My guess would be the rubber that connects the drum to the front of the machine (someone will come along and tell us the correct name for it) has got a split near the top that only leaks when spinning, when water is getting splashed around a lot and it is at it's worst movement. That is only a guess. If it is, on some machines it is an absolute bitch of a thing to change.

If you are using an external control, you probably have to adjust a setting or even a switch in the ASHP to tell it to use the external input. Have you checked that has been done? Ideally you want two such extenal inputs, a call for heating and a call for hot water. My experience is few ASHP's offer 2. I had to get creative to effect such a thing with my LG heat pump. The reason for wanting 2 demand inputs is so heating and hot water can operate at different temperatures.

Post more details of your controls and how they connect to the ASHP

A few random thoughts meant to be constructive: With such thin sticks for the frame, and your proposed 100mm insulation are you planning a twin wall frame like a Larsen truss? Celotex may give a low U value for a given thickness, but is not really the best insulation, Earthwool or blown celulose in a cavity will give a much longer decrement delay, which in simple terms means it takes longer to heat up or cool down, but you will need thicker walls to get the same insulation. Under floor heating will allow the ASHP to run at a lower temperature and therefore a higher COP ASHP's operate heating the building or heating DHW not normally both together, this allows you to set a different flow temperature for each. That may not be the best choice of ASHP. Unless they tell you otherwise that one is not inverter driven so it will be on at full power or off and won't modulate down to match demand, and will likely have a large power surge at start up. you would be better spending a bit more for one that has inverter drive. It looks like a good project, look forward to seeing a floorplan and watching the project progress.

Why?

DIY on an absolute budget, I did not have luxuries like that. All mine went up the ladder. I estimated i climbed 3 Munro's up and down that ladder.

My plan would be 1) get planning for the new house. 2) Once you have that, speak the the neighbour about buying part of their back garden. You already have plannig so they don't have the leverage of you needing part of their garden. But if you can get part of their garden you can build the new house on a narrower plot and thus leave more of the plot with the original house. You could even arrange it with the purchase of a bit of the neighbours garden as the new house would be entirely built on your garden and the bit you were buying from the neighbour would just be the back garden of the new house and the new house would not be built on that.

Good news, that probably means the expansion vessel is built in. Do let us know what they change to fix it.

Why not? Elbow as close to the wall as you can get it, job done?

I sid mine the "old fashioned" way. Old dual rate electricity meter in line with the feed. (it was hard enough finding any dual rate meter for sale, this was the best I could get) The pilot wire is switched from the demand to the HW motorised valve, so the day rate reading on the meter is the electricity used when space heating, and the off peak reading is the electricity consumed when heating DHW

Expansion vessel has failed, usually the air bladder inside has ruptured. The pressure should not rise that high if the expansion vessel is working properly. Get it replaced ASAP, not something you want to ignore.

they come in different lengths, measure the distance from the face of the door to the centre of the hole which the square spindle goes through and buy the same length.

Those simple latches are cheap as chips. Never known one to fail like that.

No 1 TAKE THE LATCH OUT OF THE DOOR so it can't shut and latch itself again. Unless an obvious fault, probably easier to get a new latch.

Can you knock the pins out of the hinges?

All ours are stuck with sticks like sh*t Why would I want even pin hole nail holes in oak veneered skirting? The fiddly bit can be getting temporary mechanical fixing to hold them in place while the adhesive dries. Store the skirting dead flat and straight to minimise problems.

I would just do it. Make sure the tin of paint / varnish is nice and warm before you go outside to paint it.

So that is the outer layer of the flue rusted. Post a picture of the flue from the outside. But usually the outside bit the air intake and the flue gasses are a separate pipe inside that. If that is the case, that will also be running cold at the point it has rusted (run the boiler for half an hour, then get up there and see.) Again not advice, but if it were me and I knew this was only short term, having confirmed it is the intake part of the flue that has corroded and confirmed it runs cold at that point, I would patch it up with car body filler for now.

Ah a pretend stereo television (there were no stereo broadcasts then)

So it's had this leak for some time, but it has continued to work and has not set off the CO alarm. If it were me, I would probably buy a new CO alarm, just in case the old one was faulty, and carry on using it. Of course this is not advice.