ProDave

No 1 TAKE THE LATCH OUT OF THE DOOR so it can't shut and latch itself again. Unless an obvious fault, probably easier to get a new latch.

Can you knock the pins out of the hinges?

All ours are stuck with sticks like sh*t Why would I want even pin hole nail holes in oak veneered skirting? The fiddly bit can be getting temporary mechanical fixing to hold them in place while the adhesive dries. Store the skirting dead flat and straight to minimise problems.

I would just do it. Make sure the tin of paint / varnish is nice and warm before you go outside to paint it.

So that is the outer layer of the flue rusted. Post a picture of the flue from the outside. But usually the outside bit the air intake and the flue gasses are a separate pipe inside that. If that is the case, that will also be running cold at the point it has rusted (run the boiler for half an hour, then get up there and see.) Again not advice, but if it were me and I knew this was only short term, having confirmed it is the intake part of the flue that has corroded and confirmed it runs cold at that point, I would patch it up with car body filler for now.

Ah a pretend stereo television (there were no stereo broadcasts then)

So it's had this leak for some time, but it has continued to work and has not set off the CO alarm. If it were me, I would probably buy a new CO alarm, just in case the old one was faulty, and carry on using it. Of course this is not advice.

BC might insist you paint it with a fire retardant paint.

Yes as above tell EPC guy he is wrong.

We got some very nice XL Joinery half glazed oak doors but they are over your budget. Howdens do a range of Oak doors with the vertical pattern you mention for under £100

When our build first started, the drainage system was not installed so the toilet in the static 'van could not be used. Instead I offered the builders the use of the toilet at our house 2 doors down the road. I think that offer was only taken once. They just went behind one of the trees when they needed a pee. Perhaps it is a Scottish thing, I have worked on several new builds where one has to "make their own arrangements" I have been know to take a travel John with me.

Suggest the person that cut them off too short comes back to correct his mistake?

Which is referred to as a system boiler, but you made a diferentiation between a system boiler and regular boiler, which is what we don't understand.

Are you serious about valves to dump the water out of your system of it freezes? I just mixed an inhibitor / antifreeze with the water in mine at a level that should prevent it from freezing to -10. Job done.

Yes a cheap old touring caravan will give you a chemical loo, a sink, a heater if you are lucky and somewhere to sit.

When I bought my flue pipes the manufacturer sold an insulating sleeve for this purpose. That's a test run with the angle cut to match the roof. The sleeve is obviously non combustible or it would not be sold for that purpose and the outside is >50mm from the flue so your insulation or combustible materials can touch the outside of the sleeve.

To stand your great big heavy 26" CRT television on. Yes seriously. Posh people had a matching one the other side for the gramophone to sit on.

So you DID change / fix something, the lack of hot water. Just what did you change / fix / modify there? THAT will be where your problem is. Typically the heating controls would instruct a motorised valve (2 separate ones or a 3 position valve) to open as appropriate and a feedback switch on the motorised valve would fire the boiler when opened. If you have messed with the motorised valves either physically or electrically they could now be stuck calling for heat.

This sounds like a case of "it wasn't broke why did you mess with it" What part of the casing? Is it really a serious fault (gas or combustion products leaking) or just an outer case? I would seriously look at getting it welded to patch it up if it does not have to last long.

The path along the side looks to be less than the recommended 150mm lower than the DPC so you will be getting some rain splashing on the wall above DPC level.

Post some pictures of the affected area both inside and what is immediately outside at that point.

You have a ventilation system without mvhr. The only difference between what you have and just trickle ventilators, is you know the ventilation rate, trickle vents it is a guess and depends how windy it is. Are you units right there? Do you mean 5.2kW Vs 6.2kW i.e. you need 1kW less heating if you fitted MVHR?

No, I am know as a "grazer" I take a packed lunch and a flask, and I will take a bite of my sandwiches every now and then as I keep on working. I would rather get the job finished sooner and finish earlier. I can't see the point in going out and sitting in your van for even half an hour let alone a whole hour as some do.

Post the model number of the MVHR unit and a picture of any controls you have associated with it. The place you usually get condensation is the external cold air pipe going from outside to the MVHR unit.

This will be condensation in or on that duct. I am a little surprised to see it on an inlet pipe, that pipe at that point should contain "warm" air that has been heated by the heat recovered from the exhausted air. I do notice that vent terminal is shut down probably too much, so the airflow will be low. First you need to establish if the condensation is on the inside or outside of the pipe.