ProDave

Assuming the builder is VAT registered, then no, he will reclaim the VAT and zero rate it to you. If it is a small tradesman like me below the threshold for VAT registration, then I would give you a shopping list and advise you to buy the materials so you could reclaim the VAT and my labour would not have VAT on it. If I bought the materials I would have no way to reclaim the VAT.

Any "supply and fit" on a new build should be zero rated by the tradesman or builder, you won't be able to claim back any VAT charged by them. You might need to provide them with some evidence like planning permission to convince them it is a new build particularly for things near the ens of the build where it might look like a finished house (almost) The VAT re claim is only for materials that YOU buy to be incorporated in the build. Address does not matter, we started off with our old address, then swapped part way through to the new build address when we moved into the static caravan.

"Loop at switch" is the phrase your electrician should understand

Having been to Portland just once, it would be the traffic through Weymouth that you have to crawl through every time you want to get somewhere that would put me off.

Mine was 85mm thick, and they ran out and had to get some more so probably ended up a bit over that thickness. It took 3 of them working their socks off best part of a day to lay my 105 square metres.

I paid £5900 for 105 square metres of driveway to be surfaced. The sub base was already down, levelled and whackered and all drainage and edging in place. I thought that was a lot, but all 3 contractors I saw quoted within a few ££ of each other. That's £56 per square metre. If that scales up, a 100 metre long 3 metre wide drive would be £16,857

One immediate issue is you have RCD's in the main CU and also in the CU by the meter. The reason for changing the cable, is SWA does not need RCD protection. So you can dispense with the RCD at the mini CU by the meter. Did your electrician do insulation test readings (he should have) Everything was only "fine" before because the old CU / fuse box did not have the ability to detect an earth leakage fault.

There will be a small change of pipe diameter. If you don't put an IC there, how far along the run is the next one? I would just do it, because it is so easy and you can never have too many. BC in Scotland will probably insist on it being pressure tested. More reason for an IC so they only test the new bit.

the first contractor I tried to get my drive done kept me waiting 2 months with no hint of when they might be able to do it. the second one did it in less than a week.

So how will you rod it when blocked? You have the hole in the ground, just put an IC in there, not worth arguing why not to.

Re the highway verge thing. when I was doing our planning, the council first wanted me to "demonstrate control over the visibility splay" well part of it was two neighbours front gardens. I didn't really want to be negotiating with them. I managed to get the planning amended to remove the "demonstrate control" clause after speaking to highways who told me the 3 metre thing. He said any unfenced land within 3 metres of the road, if there is an obstruction restricting the visibility, just tell us and we will come and remove it. That's why to strengthen your position if not fenced, get it fenced now. If not you might just find one day someone has cleared it and there might not be anything you can do.

Are you SURE they connected the mixing valve correctly?

+1 to re doing the submain in SWA (if not already? Take the cover of that mini CU and post a picture inside) I would probably then replace that mini CU with a switch fuse.

Yes looks like lead with a nice wiped soldered joint to a copper stub.

Stuff you can leave out is flooring (bare chipboard ok for BC) all decorating, skirting etc. Fit a cheap second hand kichen, as long as it works, upgrade later. No need for curtains etc. Basic pendant lights, fit nicer ones later. Or just change your time scale. Once we realised we were going to be short, we changed it to a slow build as you earn, that took nearly 6 years. Why not do the same?

That is an important point. If not already so, erect a fence around it NOW just post and wire will do. When I had this visibility splay discussion I was told that unfenced land within 3 metres of the road could be claimed as highway. If that happens, you have lost any bargaining power.

Well a probably final update on this. The surveyors did come and look at our garden, they were not happy with the number of obstructions they would have to negotiate, surprisingly it was the trees that bothered them the most. I did mention to them, that my neighbour might be willing to have the cable under his land. Well yesterday, 6 months later, the surveyors were back surveying his garden, so it now looks likely that is where it will go. If he is happy then I think a satisfactory outcome.

Do keep us posted what "solution" is found.

They don't need to buy your house, just the bit for the visibility splay, so you end up with a pile of money and a slightly smaller bit of land. Try and think of things you would like improved to your own property, like a new better entrance etc that could be part of your negotiations.

Why do you not want to sell? You hold the key, it could be worthwhile, enough even to then sell up and move elsewhere? Worst case is a compulsory purchase for a small sum of money.

I took the general consensus that in a near passive house, heating upstairs was not needed. My backup was I installed an electric point in each bedroom for an electric panel heater. I never bought any heaters and the points have not been used. We keep the bedroom door shut to stop too much heat getting in from downstairs. If ever the bedroom gets a bit cool, just open the door and and let some heat up the stairwell into the room.

We like a cool bedroom, which is why no heating at all upstairs works for us. Even at this time of year we occasionally open a window to cool the bedroom a bit.

Trying to work out what feeds what and what keeps tripping. Is the one in the picture with the lid open the one that keeps tripping? If so post a picture of how that connects to the meter and the other CU's please.

The immersion heater is a round thing near the bottom of the tank with a thick cable entering it. It will have a round cover sometimes plastic, sometimes metal, usually secured by a single bolt. You need to remove that cover to see the thermostat for the immersion heater. Post a picture of it here. Any other thermostat with a visible dial and usually higher up the tank is nothing to do with the immersion heater. Why not just call the installer that fitted it back and tell him it is not working since he fitted the new cylinder.

Our north facing windows have almost permanent condensation on the outside at this time of year. Indeed it's ice on the outside of them at the moment. As above it shows they are working and not letting enough heat through to melt that ice.