ProDave

Sorry I am thick again I see the socket in your picture and the plug that has to go into it and see no reason it just won't plug in. Just what is in the way?

Remember the level entry requirements stipulate a flat area in front of the door, so a wooden ramp on top of that, would have to have that flat are first before it starts to slope. That is NOT a "level entry" door. If it was it would not have an external cill like that, just a threshold strip that floor inside and ramp outside tuck under.

Then I would NOT fill the cavity with any sort of insulation.

In the kitchen picture (with the loo roll mountain) what is the purpose of that illuminated recess under the worktop on the island?

I would have closed them with noggins where they crossed the outside wall, then insulate up to the noggins on the inside.

Forget the plasticiser issue. Nobody has yet mentioned the need to derate cables enclosed in insulation, so if you are not thinking of rewiring you might be. When you say cables in the cavity, do you just mean passing through? That is probably okay. Or do you mean cables dropped down the cavity and traveling long distances?

If they are typical G9 halogen lamps, you can get LED replacements, but a lot of the LED ones are largerthan the halogen lamps.

As above. I have worked on 2 "wet" properties. The last one was left empty in winter, a water pipe in loft burst and when it thawed emptied the contents of the water tank into a bedroom. Part of the ceiling came down and the floor was well soaked. The insurance surveyor thought it needed drastic action and the insurance paid to strip the whole property back to a bare shell, dry it for weeks with a dehumidifier then rebuild it. They got a virtually new house. I presume the insurance took the view that if you just repaired the obviously wet bits then in future years you could be looking at more problems lurking?

Presumably you will be rewiring so is it even relevant?

That one does look like a GU10, are you SURE the front does not unscrew, note some unscrew clockwise which seems "wrong"

Expecting another lockdown?

Check the unused boxed in soil pipe, is it properly capped possibly with an AAV?

It might be more severe that you think, floor up, dry out properly etc

The only thing I question is do you have a 3 channel programmer? (if not that is an upgrade you should do) That would allow the UFH to turn on earlier as it takes longer to warm up, and the radiators to turn on a bit later. It is already plumbed with 3 motorised valves so should be an easy upgrade if not already a 3 channel programmer.

In our case there was no advantage in the top hung, not needed as a means of escape, just made it harder to install, more to go wrong and cost more.

I chose standard centre pivot Velux windows with the trickle vent. I seriously objected to paying more NOT to have something fitted. The standard Velux trickle vent is part of the opening mechanism, and when shut seems a whole lot more air tight than a normal window with a flimsy trickle vent above the window pane. Air testing did not show any particular air leak around the vent mechanism when shut. House is meeting the predicted heat loss so no major problems.

There you go, don't enlarge the loft hatch, choose a smaller unit. Job done.

Yes that works better for me and is the sort of thing we were considering when looking at a north facing plot.

Is there a stop bead around the hatch (like a door stop?) You only need an extra 20mm. Otherwise I would be removing the loft hatch surround and while doing it, probably enlarging the hole and enlarging at least one dimension.

These are typical room terminals, the pipe(s) come out parallel to the ceiling Our MVHR unit has 4 speeds available. Slowest speed is used for normal, second fastest is used for a gentle boost while cooking, and fastest speed is used for maximum ventilation rate when showering. The yellow sheet on the wall is the air tight membrane, everything is kept inside that, battens form a 25mm void for pipes and cables then plasterboard so no draughts through your light seitches. How far into the build are you, if you get the chance I really really recommend making your whole roof a warm roof with insulation and air tightness following the roof line. It is SO much easier to detail. If instead you go for a cold loft with the insulation on the ceiling you will have a LOT of detailing as much of your MVHR pipework and the MVHR unit itself will be outside the air tight envelope of the building.

Was this an individual build for you, or part of a development and you just bought it? Did you see any parts part way through build to estimate build quality? How is the house ventilated and heated?

Who built the house? (assuming not a self build by you) Is that room thermostat by a door or a window? Is that room a "room in roof"?

Add one of these to your existing trap https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-v33s-compression-domestic-appliance-tee-piece-connector-white-40mm/4167p

Stupid idea. There is enough space on land for solar panels and wind turbines for all our needs.

Pretty standard I am afraid. If it were single storey, the hiab on the delivery lorry might reach and you could suggest to the driver a few £££ for him to lift them and stack them at one end of the roof, but I doubt the hiab will reach a 2 storey house. A crane will lift them one at a time and spend the time to get them right, braced then lift the next one. A delivery driver would never take that much time so the best you just might get is all the trusses at one end of the roof still to be handballed into place and braced.