ProDave

Did you tell the DNO on a G99 application when you fitted the second system. What did they "allow" you to have?

For the vent pipe you either need access to an outside wall, probably the least disruptive route (smaller holes to drill) or a soil stack. Care to do some sketches of the layout of your house, first and second floor and I am sure someone can find a route for you.

In our house we often have to keep the bedroom door shut all day to keep it cool enough or too much heat convects up the stairwell.

Well my thought on the plumbing now we are not pulling punches. You want a stopcock where the rising main comes into the building. If that is under the island then the pipe needs to come up and a stopcock in one of the cupboards under the island. If you then take a cold feed from there to other parts of the house you do NOT want that cold feed intermingled with all the UFH pipes and contained in the same pour as the UFH screed. Re lay and create a bit of a gap in the UFH layout for it to pass through away from pipes and sleeve it with insulation. A lot of the UFH layout is carp with a few of the bends on the verge of kinking, who knows they may have kinked and been straightened. Not good. You would think on a new build the sparky would try and put some of that wiring in the wall and at least make what is on the surface neat. The offcuts of leftover DPM that appear to be used and the general mess just add to the impression of a poor job. I am not a gas fitter so take this with a pinch of salt, but I have never seen yellow MDPE used inside. Every install I have seen tends to use soldered copper all the way from the boiler to the gas meter. As for that big lintel at the front of the passage. Holy Moses, that does not look properly supported at the ends, and If BC say that is not enough bearing surface (likely) then that is now going to be one BIG job to put it right if they have built above it yet?

I was waiting to gauge other replies. I was going to start by tactfully asking who has done that pipework? and just to say that is not how i would do it.

No issue, it's on soak test.

Some pictures may help. Of course the manufacturer is going to wriggle out of any responsibility, that is what they do, they are never going to admit their product is not fit for purpose so they will blame wrong installation, poor installation etc. Movement won't help, but did the joint really move or does that remain just a theoretical possibility? What is the weather exposure at this point?

Willow burn as most of the trees are Willow and the burn passes through the garden. But one deciding factor from the shortlist of names, was a reasonable domain name was available for this choice.

Ours are all left overs of the engineered Oak flooring, with a timber moulding to finish off the front and hide the not very pretty wooden substrate of the engineered floor boards.

I used 2 standard flush meter boxes some posts and timber cladding. This is now our permanenet supply, no point paying to move it. It is close to our parking area so will be easy to add car charging point(s) from there when the need arises.

I use 6000kWh in a year. There are 8760 hours in a year, so that's an average of 684 watts continuously. Do I meet the 2000W challenge?

This is one reason why I am not a fan of rigid insulation, it needs to be detailed WELL. Rockwool / frametherm /batts type insulation cut slightly over sized and squashed to be a snug fit is less hard to mess up like this. Tell the builder ALL the joints want foaming and taping, ALL of them, at their expense.

I did my VAT claim on a temporary habitation certificate and they paid out. At that point it was NOT complete by building control and one supply and fit supplier had no problem zero rating it. I did not even mention that I had done my VAT clam, just that it was not signed off as complete by building control.

Will have to ban the three little pigs from childhood reading.

I got the impression the insulation would be good, at one point they were making engineered hollow box section timber beams, and filling the void down the middle with insulation. But these programs never tell you the interesting stuff like U values, what heating system etc. UFH would be hard on a modular build if installed at the factory for instance, but they mentioned the flooring would be done on site so it might have been? The only visible heat source was a stove, on an island with hardly any trees so that will all be probably expensive bought in wood.

Dead right there. While watching last nights "dream homes" a friend of SWMBO sent a message along the lines "Are you watching this? ..... It's just made of wood, no brick anywhere, it must be freezing"

You don't normally expect UFH to be warm to the touch. The whole point it is a large area heating the room so only needs to be a little above room temperature. Anything less than about 37 degrees does not "feel warm"

I watched that. Interesting, for all the wrong reasons The first being, why did he pay £150K for a plot on North Uist? Just take a look at the bottom end of properties for sale on the Western Isles, one of the cheapest places in the UK lots of cheap plots and crofts https://www.western-isles-properties.com/properties-search/?sortby=price-asc Then he spent £1.1M building the house, shipped 600 miles from a factory in North wales on 7 oversize loads, the largest built to match the bow door size on the ferry!!! So a total of £1.25M for his 5 bedroom house. A quick search shows the most expensive house currently for sale on the Western Isles (actually now sold) is £465K So he has spent over twice the ceiling price for his dream house. https://www.hebridespropertyfinder.com/property-for-sale/detail/77771 That's okay if you can afford it and you want something individual and are not expecting to ever sell it. But slightly ironic as the opening bit of the program tells you how building your dream home saves you money over buying........... The local gossip might be interesting.

Did your brickies not have a string line?

Set the hob to the highest power it can go, connect the hob (with a suitably larger cable) and the oven, both hard wired to a dual flex cooker outlet from the existing feed. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AA45DCOP.html

An induction hob on a 13A plug will be very disappointing. Are you sure that is not just there as a test lead? What do the instructions say?

Not "advice" but the little WBS in our static caravan worked fine with a total of 3 metres of flue, two 45 degree bends right next to the stove.

Ah so you are not actually paying 50p, that is what confused me.

I have always understood dedicated function accessories can be at any height, like high up sockets for a wall mounted tv. I have never known BC question this as long as most are at the correct height. If they did, they would get replaced with a blank plate, and put back after completion......

Why are you paying so much? commercial tariff? This ends in a couple of weeks, then I will be onto the capped rate of about 33p, no fixed rate deals on offer at the moment.