ProDave

Literally Explanation here

This is where I keep hoping for someone that knows this ASHP comes along. On my own LG therma V heat pump there are easy "user controls" for target hot water temperature, and (if you use the built in thermostat room temperature) But there are also settings for "water leaving temperature in heating mode" and "water leaving temperature in hot water mode" Those are far more complicated to adjust being "parameters" not settings. What we are trying to achieve with your heat pump is the "water leaving temperature in hot water mode" to be about 55 degrees and hot water target temperature to be about 49 degrees. Remember these might be called something completely different on your heat pump and god knows how you adjust them. The water leaving temperature must be set higher than the target temperature of the tank or it will never get there.

I wondered that, but they are such low power even if one went rogue, I could not see it upsetting reception that far. Definitely half a mile away from home I still get no reception on either. I need to get over the brow if the hill for things to work. I do wonder if the O2 mast that went off in December and supposedly has now been fixed is the problem, but nobody seems interested in investigating.

The plot thickens on the "poor signal at home" issue. (now solved with wifi calling so just academic interest) Today i have been out with 2 phones, old Sky ()2) sim in one, and new 1p (EE) sim in the other. Neither gets a signal at home in spite of both networks saying coverage should be good and no known network problems. Go about a mile away from home up a hill a bit so I am looking down on the local town, both phones get a signal and work fine. I have the app Network Cell Info lite on the phone that us supposed to tell you things like what network you are connected to what band and what signal strength. When "out of signal" on the phone it gives some really weird readings like sometimes the signal strength pointer jumping up to maximum. I am wondering if there is a local interference issue rather than a "fault" with one of the networks. Just musing possibilities, a portable spectrum analyser would be handy.....

That is a good set of intentions and one we look forward to watching and helping with. Start each topic in it's own place in the forum. but just to burst your bubble, you will NOT get to a "bill free house" you can only hope for low bills.

That's a system boiler not a combi, so opening the hot tap won't let off the pressure. That EV is for the sealed heating system. The water should already be turned off. There is an over pressure release valve on the top of the boiler if you remove the top cover, you can manually open that to let off the pressure. But the pressure already looks very low.

Scholmore Click is my favourite range. Decorative https://www.toolstation.com/electrical-supplies-accessories/decorative-switches-sockets/c806?brand=Click+Deco White https://www.toolstation.com/electrical-supplies-accessories/switches-sockets/c660?brand=Scolmore+Click Never had trouble with the Click fittings good quality for not much money. Schneider is another make that gets good reviews. I have not personally rated MK as "quality" for a long time.

Does the heat pump not have separate outputs for hot water and heating? If you really can't find a 3 port 2 way valve, you can get one normally open and one normally closed 2 port to work from one output.

What you need is a competent plumber and electrician. I have done several now (each one with a different plumber) I can't speak so much for the plumbing side, but max 2 days for the electrics usually less, and I would find it hard to believe the plumber was any more. Even allowing for down south prices that would be less than £2K labour. There is a long held suspicion here that with an MCS install you can get a £5K grant, so the MCS guys just add £5K to the bill so guess where the grant money ends up? All pure speculation of course but none of us can see how many of the MCS quotes can get so high just by pricing actual labour and hours expected to be worked.

COMPLETELY different. What you are wanting is a 2 way valve, When energised, it switches to one port, when not energised it switches to the other. Nice and simple and reliable. A 3 port 3 way valve is the work of the devil, something dreamed up by a boffin trying to do something as cheap as possible. It has a complex switching system that can stall the motor (with DC) at mid point to send water to both ports. You might gather I hate them and would never have one in my house. If you can't find a 3 port 2 way valve I would plumb it instead with individual 2 port valves.

So are you saying you have set the water temperature from the ASHP to 55 degrees yet it is still only delivering water from the ASHP at 45 degrees which in turn is only getting the tank to 40 degrees? If so either something is stopping the ASHP reaching that set temperature, i.e. absorbing the heat as fast as it can produce it (which is why I asked if the heating was on as well) or the ASHP is faulty? Or you are not understanding the settings and not setting what you think you are which is where we really need someone who knows this particular heat pump to advise.

I thought we had discussed you were going to set that to 56 degrees, so yes that's what you need to do and I thought you already had.

What is the symbol above the 1 of 41 in this picture, sory I am not familliar with this controller. It is looking to me like about 41 is what the water leaving temperature is set to and you need to find where to turn that up?

Where are you measuring the temperatures and with what? If the water really is flowing into the cylinder at 49.6 then after 4 hours you would expect the hot water to be more than 39.6

Showing for me.

What I have discovered is the option to turn on wifi calling only appears then the network operator supports it and enables it on the sim. That was the whole problem. It took a change of network operator to find one that does it properly.

Okay finally a resolution to the wifi calling issue. Sky have been spectacularly unhelpful, all they can say is wifi calling should be enabled and they even sent me a replacement sim but it did not work still and they could offer no other help. Regarding the lack of signal at home they say the fault at the local mast is fixed but I don't get a signal still. So to try and investigate I asked them to give me the location of the local mast so I could do a signal survey and see if the mast is actually working if I go closer to it. No response from sky and no further help. So i started looking at alternatives. 1P Mobile was one that came up, it uses the EE network and claims to do wifi calling. So i ordered their cheapest PAYG sim to try it. That arrived today, activated it and put it in my phone, and as if by magic, the wifi calling option appeared in the phones menu. The phone can do wifi calling, it just needs to be told by the sim card that the provider supports that, and in spite of what Sky say, it would appear they do not. So I can now once again make and receive calls at home. My next job is get a PAC code, transfer my proper number over to 1P and then tell Sky where to stick their lousy "service". And when the PAYG sim runs out of credit swap it to one of the pay monthly options. The worst part of this has been the untruths and lack of help from Sky mobile. I definitely could not recommend them to anyone.

Yes I believe that is how it works but I have not used that controller. Confirm by the fact the radiators should go cold when it is heating the water tank.

That certainly suggests they should be valved to operate separately.

If there is a burn is that clean enough for toilet flushing, washing etc and use bottled water for drinking and cooking?

I would say same basic design but with the addition of a couple of extra components, possibly to meet a more stringent EMC or other reg that has come into force.

+1 to the above, manufacturers instructions ovveride regs. If you have a particular need to get close, choose the stove carefully, for instance mine only needs to be 100mm from combustibles at the back and 150mm at the side. Building control verified this with reference to the install manual and a tape measure.

Under Floor heating. How is the house heated? The point is working correctly when heating the hot water, the radiators or whatever heats the house should go cold.

Are there neighbours or other plots you can get an extension lead and hose pipe from by agreement?

I think you need to establish that it is switching from DHW to space heating and not trying to do both at the same time. It is normal, because of the limited power of a heat pump vs a gas boiler, to only do one at a time. So I would expect when it is heating the water tank, the space heating (I can't remember if it is UFH or radiators) goes off. Can you confirm that is the case?