ProDave

I assume that central bar is attached to one door and the other door closes against it? So the door it is fixed to just seal the gap with any outside sealant. The door that closes to it, you will have to improvise with some way of extending or giving something for it to close to. Just poor design. What is the fit like from the outside? it is not a case of the frame is too tall?

I am interested in how a roof with a ridge board works without collar ties or a lower level tie? i.e. what stops the roof spreading? Are you sure what you are describing as a ridge board, is not in fact a much heavier ridge beam?

Another for the "feeling brave" When it first turns on and makes it's vibrating noise, while it is making that noise, try spinning the fans NOT with your hand, some form of push rod or stick. If they start running that is a sure sign the start capacitor has failed. (I must get around to changing the cap on my pillar drill that needs a spin.....)

I bet the size you want is missing from all sets. Or blunt.

If you want to be "BBC" about it, they would be "Metal web joists" (Aka Sticky Back Plastic)

I am struggling to relate the 2 pictures. The first is a view presumably looking along the house wall? and then the garden wall, but I can't relate that to the aerial view. In the aerial view, are you left or right house? And what are you trying to do (or stop)? and what is the issue?

+1 to that. I would say All you can do is a galley kitchen units all down the left side and down the right side as far as the door in that side wall. Plinth heaters or move the radiator to the bottom right wall between the 2 doors. Wall space in that small room is too precious to waste with a radiator anywhere else. You will have to choose one corner for a tall unit probably e.g fridge / freezer. The window in the left wall will have to be bridged with units and a worktop, you don't necessarily have to replace the window to do that, a good joiner / kitchen fitter will find a way to marry a worktop to a window that is lower.

With only a segment of drawing, it is not entirely clear which are outside walls? On the face of it, the window is internal between 2 rooms? For such a small room, ditch the radiator. Fit plinth heaters instead. Dimensions might help.

I would be considering filling the cavity while you are at it. Any chance of a DIY pour something into the cavity (genuine question, is is possible, would it work?)

I did a "cost / benefit" analysis on a 2G vs 3G velux and decided the extra cost of 3G was not worth it for the tiny energy saving. That was the wrong thing to be thinking about. That en-suite window is the only window in the house that gets just a little condensation around the edges on a very cold day. I wish I had spent the extra on 3G to lessen the chance of that. Re trickle vents, I objected to the principle of paying extra not to have something fitted, and in the case of velux windows, the vent is built into the handle / opening mechanism, and when shut is a very good seal, so not paying extra to have the vent omitted was the right choice. Centre or top is personal choice. I chose centre, I am uneasy at a dirty great big spring built into the top hung versions to counter the weight of the sash.

If you are a "few miles" from the sea I doubt you will have a problem. but go and look at peoples satellite dishes. My own one here, 3 miles inland is probably 20 years old, and still sound. I can tell you for a fact that houses right by the sea, they would be lucky to last 5 years before they have turned into a wilting mess of rusted metal. If the satellite dishes around you are fine, then so too will be an ASHP.

You can't have a socket in a bathroom, so pass it through the wall, where I would fit a switched fused connection unit to power it.

I don't know this particular unit so this is just some general thoughts. Are you sure the fan(s) are free to rotate, i.e. nothing you have done while changing filters has gone back wrong so they won't spin freely? On my own unit, a Kingspan / mitsubishi, I know on power up it operates the bypass mechanism which goes whir whir whir for a few seconds. If it does not detect the end stop switch operate it registers that as a fault and stops.

If you take it up outside, it will have to be quite tall and with stays. How about up the corner, then following the roof line and out at the ridge, a bit like ours in the bedroom, though in your case as close in to the roof line as you could get it.

Yes that is what you need. But why exit there? Ours goes up inside the room, up through the bedroom above and out through the roof. Don't forget a smaller hole, lower down about 100mm diameter for ducted air intake.

It looked like something similar to our twin and and earth copper, but twisted at each joint then welded. I am unclear if that is a just a joint, presumably sleeved? or if the twisted and welded joint then goes into for instance a socket. Not enough detail.

I believe that video was in Spain. Has this been used in the UK? Is it even allowed in the UK. If it was it would seem to be a build method that is truly within the capability of a self builder without needing the concrete pour stages of ICF.

I stumbled upon this on another forum. It looks like giant polystyrene bricks, a sort of ICF, but without the hollow core and concrete.

For those wanting to join a boating forum in order to read it https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/epc-energy-performance-certs.593805/ The opening post of the thread was

That looks just like the one I wired about this time last year and posted the picture of some of the plumbing above.

Going back to EPC ratings and properties requiring upgrades, I am following a thread on another forum. I can't post a link as it is a members only forum so would not show to any non member. That thread has shown that the original EU "Energy Performance of Buildings" directive, some 15 years ago which is what gave us the EPC in the first place, has provision for demanding all buildings are updated to certain standards by certain dates. It also appears that we are still obliged to follow that directive, even the amendments to it that may alter what standards a building has to meet and when. We seem to have a lot of silence on this here, no mention of it in the UK main media but it is being talked about openly "over there" If in a number of years time, it is suddenly announced to the UK public that you WILL have to upgrade your old house (estimates are 75% of the UK housing stock WILL need upgrades) and YOU might have to pay for the upgrades yourself, then there are going to be a lot of angry people. What's more I estimate a little over 50% of the population will become even more angry when they find out it is an EU law that is still telling us what we must do.

It just looks awkward to use.

Of course it won't happen. The plan is to get the votes of the gullible who believe it will, and then figure out who to blame other than themselves for it not happening.

The UK had a whole series of home designed and built reactors from the early Magnox upwards and 30 years ago we could have designed and built our own new generations of power stations. Now the only relic of that is the small PWR's that only lived on in the subs. the last remnants of our own nuclear industry.

Not at all. My timber frame was stick built by a local building firm, so not quite a "kit house". After their initial quick assembly of the frame, it then took me 5 years to complete it myself. For me the main advantage of timber frame is almost the entire thickness of the walls can be insulation of some form or other. Vs Masonry where the actual bricks or blocks add little insulation. So you can get a very good indeed passive house level build with masonry, the overall walls thickness will be more than it could be with timber frame. A lot depends on what is normal where you are, in in this part of Scotland, Timber frame is normal so no problem finding a competent builder to do it right.