ProDave

Bottom left 2 white triangles, bottom right, 2 blue triangles. Should be the same.

Yes that's it.

You have a row of posts down the middle of the house. I presume this is to support some form of beam running down the middle of the house to support joists running front to back of the house a distance of about 10 metres so they would need intermediate support. My suggestion (which is just what we did) is make the internal wall either side of the hall, a supporting wall going all the way up to the roof. then the joists can span the other way. We have 11 metre long posi joists spanning the entire length of the house on one go, taking support from the 2 load bearing walls, so the longest unsupported span is 5 metres. This removes the need for the row of posts down the middle of the house. Okay only 2 would be a nuisance in the middle of a room, as the other 3 are hidden in walls.

When I go looking for something, I just stop looking when I have found the first one, I don't waste further time looking for their friends.

That's what I thought. Not necessary. Make the wall either side of the stairwell a supporting wall, and the walls above it either side of the landing. Then floor and ceiling joists span lengthways the entire length of the building taking intermediate support from these 2 supporting walls. Exactly what we have done. Look to be only a 5 metre span that way, exactly what we have.

What are the row of 5 small squares evenly spaced along the centreline of the downstairs?

Stairs are wrong. To get to the right hand study, you have to ascend the stairs then walk all the way round the gallery to get to it. Put the stairs the other side of the hall so they ascend and finish just before the door to the master bedroom, then it's an easier route to the other 2 bedrooms / study rooms. You will probably need to start the stairs closer to the entrance door so they finish before the master bedroom door and don't cut across the entrance to the living / dining, and will need to re jig the entrance to the downstairs bedroom and hall storage cupboards.

UNLESS it's a basin with internal overflow, in which case the waste has a couple of holes as it passes through the basin and the sealing washer IS at the bottom. A picture would help.

If the roof timbers (and any insulation) has been soaked, then even fixing the leak will not stop the smell. The whole lot needs to be stripped off and replaced. Only then will it be fresh once more.

Well done. Now ENJOY it.

If the ASHP installer just connected the HP to the HW tank in a location not chosen by him, then he is not at fault. It still sounds like an excessively long pipe run. Did you ever do that test when cold, measuring just how much cold water comes out of the tap before the hot water arrives?

Pictures?

When I read the rather wooley description I thought "ah it's just a thermal store" But a thermal store is actually not the best match to an ASHP. I would personally steer clear as I don't like people trying to sell me something with a lot of waffle and obscurity about what it actually IS you are buying.

It can happen even with mains water. Our supply went off a few weeks back due to a local burst main. Shortly after it came back, one of our toilet cisterns would not stop filling. Dismantling the fill valve revealed a similar sized "foreign body" that must have come in with the water jamming the fill valve open. It must have got into the pipe during the repair. Thames water are well known for their leaks, if they actually fix them, the same could happen to you.

Seen on a plumbers van: "Don't sleep with a drip, call me instead" Seen on an electricians van : "Let us remove your shorts"

Yes that is aluminium spreader plates for under floor heating. The UFH pipes clip into an aluminium sheet that dissipates the heat.

If it is dropping pressure slowly, you have a leak, that might be hard to find if it is just a drip. However if you get the heating up to temperature, turn the heating off and let it cool down, and then it drops pressure quickly, it is likely to be a failed expansion vessel. Your plumber will be able to check that when he comes.

The chimney if you look is two pieces one slides inside the other like a telescope. If they won't slide easily is there more paint / ither sealant got in the gap between the two parts? The bottom part needs to slide up, get a screwdriver, chissle etc under it to try and get it to slide. Only when you have lifted it a bit to clear the lip of the lower fixed part of the hood, can you spring the sides of the chimney apart and pull it forward to get it off. Watch out for sharp edges.

You have more issues there. Is there a door in that stud wall separating the shower? If so it is a separate room and needs a separate fan. If there is not a door, then you could just put a glass screen like any other shower in the corner of the room, BUT your issue there is a room containing a shower, all sockets, e.g. for the WM and boiler etc need to be 3 metres from the shower and I don't think the room is big enough.

When thinking about a previous extension at one point we considered a loft conversion but the layout of the house would mean the stairs to the loft were not above the stairs to the first floor. The planning officer got very suspicious "oh 2 staircases, that hints you might be planning to split it into 2 properties later"

Ask him WHY you need 2? Is it because the extract rates for a utility room is higher than a bathroom, and he thinks your fan is not powerful enough? So he has suggested 2 fans rather than change the one fan for a bigger one, often a 6" fan rather than 4" for a utility room. If you do go for 2, fit them in parallel after the (waste of space) isolator switch.

Why 2 staircases? Is that a tree in the entrance hall?

If you genuinely deserve it, e.g you have mains gas available but heat your house with oil, there will be a mechanism to apply for it individually but the details have not yet been announced.

Beware of floating insulation if the predicted flood ever happens https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-37600533 If I remember from the time, the slabs of insulation was used as a cheap infill to build up the floor level and the flood in this case was a burst water main.

I was going to suggest if noise is a concern to put a glass front on your projector pocket / tunnel, but you would then seriously have to look at ventilation. I assume modern projectors use LED's net energy hungry and hot halogen lamps?