ProDave

Lights above a worktop I set 600mm from the wall, in other words in line with the edge of the worktop so they may not be exactly "square". Any further out to get the spacing to look better risks you working in your own shaddow.

TS may have a 30 day refund policy for "I have changed my mind" but surely the first one, you could have taken back and told them "it does not work" and they would have to believe you as they don't have a way to test them in the shop. Now you have 2 to do that with. Try and get a refund and buy a different make. and leave suitably poor feedback for that item.

As I said before if they truly believe that I would sack them. You have to design the rafters to sit slightly lower so when the external insulation is applied the finished roof height is correct. If they cannot grasp that simple fact then they would not be detailing my house.

One of my memories of living in Oxfordshire, were the periods when it rained non stop for days on end, and it was quite a relief when the rain finally stopped. We never get that up here.

Most inverter driven ones should already have that built in. Older direct on line types would probably have some crude PF correction in the form of a capacitor.

We have had such a good run of sun this week my immersion maxed out mid afternoon. I would (for once) have loved someone to take a long shower.

I swear we have the same (or very similar) wooden chairs and a table. Kept under cover over winter and re treated each year they should last a long time.

So they have charged you VAT when it should have been zero rated. Rather than pursue through courts, contac HMRC VAT department. Now if they had charged you VAT but not passed it on the HMRC that would get interesting.... Just a thought.

A wooden batten slotted behind and screwed either side then a square of plasterboard screwed or glued to the batten. Joint filler to make good the gap. the square cut for the new socket location should be just the right size to fill the old hole.

So sockets are for WM etc so will not be on view. Stand down the OCD and put the sockets wherever fits once the pipe is in.

I am seeing 2 "gable end" walls. As the end of the terrace is a hipped roof, then one of those gable ends in the picture is the front gable and the other is a party wall with a neighbours house the other side of it. I can't figure out which is which. Where the timber goes aparently through the wall is that the party wall to next door? I am trying to work out what it might be joining to the other side. Hence asking you to draw a plan view showing the roof profile and where this timber is.

I thought the pipe was going IN the wall.

If it's just the socket that is the issue, move the socket.

Can you draw a plan view showing where this diagonal timber is? There is an odd party line where the mid terrace houses get a tiny bit of the front gable end. Is the timber as it passes through the wall destined to join up with the gable end somehow just the other side of the party wall?

The issue is you have a top mounted immersion heater. I would never choose a cylinder with that configuration (I suspect you did not choose it) My own (Telford stainless unvented heat pump cylinder) has the immersion entering from the side near the bottom and does what you want, heats the whole tank quite evenly and sinks all the surplus PV we have ever had.

I am not sure what your question is, buy my recommendation is choose one of the treatment plants that work with an air blower, and avoid the ones that have moving mechanical parts down in the smelly stuff.

Don't under estimate the danger of boiling the water in an UVC, hence why I made a series of small adjustments checking progress after each one.

I thought wind chill related to heat loss from warm bodies? I doubt concrete will be bothered as long as no frost is forecast. Is the wind taking the scenic route from Norway to Somerset?

In defence of @Radian I did much the same. My immersion (similar design) cur out at I think it was about 62 degrees with the thermostat at max. So I made pretty much the same adjustments. Each time I raised the "thermostat range" I tried it, using the ASHP's probe to measure the new cut off temperature. I stopped adjusting when it would reach 78 degrees and then cut out. That is still well below any danger level but allows quite a bit more surplus PV to be stored in the tank. All I would say is if you try such a thing, you need an independant, trusted means to measure the temperature your thermostat cuts out after being "adjusted"

About time. Self builders do this anyway. The mass market builders have been left for too long to "self police" and proven incapable or unwilling to do that, so they are now being forced to do things properly.

What does your house insurance say? I have seen a couple of similar incidents and the usual remediation work es very extensive indeed.

So do you know of history of MC4 connectors catching fire? What other reason do you have to eliminate them? From a purely technical point of view I would always try and put the inverter close to the consumer unit in terms of cable length. In some cases, particularly with high mains voltage, inverters tripping or limiting due to over voltage can be an issue. On the other hand longer cables and hence volt drop on the DC side will not cause such errors. Although they may be rated as IP65 I would not be happy with them completely outside, but under a canopy perhaps to keep the rain off them.

Why do you want a combi boiler? With PV fitted it makes much more sense to have a system boiler and an unvented hot water tank, then you can easily divert surplus PV to water heating. Choose the right UVC and you can change for a heat pump later with little pain. In fact with an ICF build it should be pretty low energy so have you even considered a heat pump from the start?

What were his instructions? What did you agree with him before giving him the job? I always make it clear I am an electrician not a roofer. If there is no suitable point to connect e vent hose to, I discuss this with the owner first and it may involve a roofer to fit a roof vent tile or someone else to provide some other place to vent it. I would not just leave the hose in in the roof space and say nothing.

My heat loss calculations showed worst case heat loss was 2.2kW and my house is being heated quite comfortably with a 5kW ASHP So you should be fine with a 6kW ASHP As others have said, a lot of contractors just cannot grasp the concept of a low energy house, and want to specify something bigger so they have no liability if a small ASHP proves inadequate.