ProDave

I never buy lights as sealed fittings. I buy lights with replacable lamps of a standard size. If you do decide to buy sealed fittings buy a good number of spares as in 10 years time or less they will be impossible to buy. Even when buying lamps I buy a large box. LED lamps can vary from one manufacturer to another even if claimed to be the same, and you don't want odd lamps in the same room do you? I wish I had bought s spare of each flush valve and fill valves in the toilet cisterns, in case that design is not available when one fails. Likewise UFH parts. In our previous house, the mixing valve on one of the manifolds failed. It was about 10 years old. I found that was now an obsolete manifold and I only found a replacement as a new old stock item. I doubt I would find one now, probably necessitating replacing the whole manifold.

A bit more done. The last of the outer frame is now up. And a trial fit to make sure it fits under.

One of my design points is minimum wasted space on corridors. I think I achieved that with just the downstairs hall and upstairs landing as non productive space. Related to that is my combined Utility room and WC downstairs as I could not find a more efficient way to do that. The double doors from the 2 main living spaces to the hall allow the ground floor to be opened up as one for much of the time.

Those were my drawings for planning. A bit basic. A later more professional set were drawn later for the building warrant but I can't find them at the moment.

These are early drawings, a few things changed along the way but can't find final versions.

A bit of progress. A fixed scaffold and mobile scaffold erected and the first left hand post in place and the front cross beam in place. Before doing that I raised the front of the garage side beam slightly to increase the fall, and cut that back slightly so the front of the roof did not break the roof line of the garage roof. Front view. And as you see it as you drive down the road The neighbours new fence in the process of being erected will screen it somewhat.

Wait a moment. More pictures needed, but you are not planning to put it in the middle of the hob behind it are you?

Our equipment has just been upgraded by the provider so we now get 100mbps compared to 50mbps before. The higher speed is free for a year but after that an extra £5 per month, or you can revert to 50mbps to keep the same price. for normal browsing of streaming tv etc I really can't see any difference. the only time it might make a difference is if you have a big download to do. i suspect at the end of the year we will revert to 50mbps. Both are far better than the max 3mbps and unreliable connection with frequent drop puts with ADSL.

I recall in the early days it the internet, the dial up days, there were things called DACS boxes that split one telephone line to serve 2 properties. It limited the dial up speed to 33K rather than 56K I wonder after this initial fibre rollout, if they will introduce a similar fibre splitter? it would potentially halve the speed to the 2 properties but I doubt many people would notice if they could only get 500MB rather than 1 GB.

I did my VAT claim with the temporary habitation, I needed the cash. I could have waited until full completion if I wanted to.

Ours in insured via Adrian Flux and has been since we got a Scottish certificate of temporary habitation. Nobody ever asked to see it I just told them it was a "new build"

I really think the company is harvesting grant money to do a s**t install, knowing probably nobody will ever want to connect to it now we have a decent company supplying a wireless service so it is unlikely any of these fibres will be made live and tested.

Drain connector is definitely wrong. you will get drain smells from there. Should be via a trap, probably a waterless trap.

Usually in these situations you do a google search for the email address of the CEO and vent your claim there. the few times I have tried, it gets the result you want. Did you TELL them the plug had been removed? I bet if you had just sent it back without saying, or taken it back in person, nobody would have noticed.

I am about to face that. I have got myself into the position of helping a new boat owner learn to sail their own boat. She came for a sail on our boat yesterday and I was staggered by how much is "obvious" to us she did not understand.

That is what we did with ours to arrive at the 1200mm gap. Not on wheels but take all the drawers out and empty the cupboards, and 4 strong blokes could slide the whole thing as one unit.

I have a very low opinion of the way full fibre is being rolled out. For years, we only had copper ADSL. I kept hoping OR would at least fit a fibre cabinet at the top of our road and give us all FTTC with copper just for the last bit. No not interested. Our saviour is a local wireless company now serving us, but it is a niche product only available in a particular area. Just recently, Highland Broadband have been digging up our roads and verges laying fibre to every property. Having seen their work I think it is abysmal, the fibre cables are imho buried way too shallow in the verges and under the road and not even in any conduit. The first utility that needs to dig anywhere near them will likely sever them. And as above they have only laid fibres to the existing houses. No sign of any spare fibres to allow new builds. And worse still there is a physically completed house but not finished internally so not signed of and no street address issued, and that has not been provided with a fibre to connect to. So if he ever wants fibre broadband he will likely not be able to or face a ridiculous cost that could have been avoided with a little thought from the people building the network.

I believe so, Stairs are minimum 900mm and doors wider than your 30" I am not up to date with the latest version, my house was built to regs 10 years ago.

Gus is referring to Scottish regs that need a minimum space of 1400mm by 1600mm to manoeuvre. Requirements may be different in England.

So those of us with PV fitted over 10 years ago have got the "rwong" RCD's fitted.

At 1200 we can open the dishwasher and one of the drawers on the island to empty stuff into and just squeeze through the gap. The minimum you can tolerate will depend a lot on what is there in your particular situation.

We have 1200mm and would not want less. But that is because a dishwasher door opens into that gap.

Front edge and left side edge will want flashing. Rear edge will have a small overhang for gutter. The edge adjoining the garage will not be flashed in. Far too complicated. There will be a small gap and the fact rain will run down the wall does not matter. Snow here sticks to the 45 degree tiled roof so no amount of slope will stop it sitting on this roof.

Photo time First beam hoisted and fixed (not properly for final fixing) That's at 5 degree slope, front is about 300mm higher than back. It does not look as ridiculous as I first feared, although it is above the eaves, it only slightly breaks the line of the tiles. Joists will span sideways at 400mm centres to a similar beam the other side and that will be supported by 3 posts. The two side beams will be doubled up and I will brace these overhangs back to the posts on the garage side. I might try the front just a little higher before I decide. the posts won't get cut to length until the very end. And this is why it needs to be so high. There is presently 12cm clearance under the rear beam. We need to do a trial demount before committing to this height because jacking it up takes weight off the springs and the truck rises, so we need to make sure there is enough height to do that.

It's a single slope so no "ridge" At my present 5 degree ground level mock up that will put the front of the car port just over 300mm higher than the back. I need 3.2m clearance at the back, that will make it 3.5m clearance at the front. That is going to be above the eaves height of the garage it is joining to so it is a question of will it look ridiculous or not. I hope to get a mock up later and take a picture. The length of the roof will be 6 metres. I was hoping to find a roof material supplier that can do 6M in one run without joints. I might be over optomistic there. If not I will spec the overlap as a bit more than normal, but as I say not the end of the world if a little rain leaks. If it is windy enough to blow some rain up the joint, it will be lashing in at the open rear of the car port anyway. Re coatings. I hope to get them supplied to the length I need so nothing needs cutting, like I did with my sun room roof. That has given no problem so I will look up what make it was and they will be my favourite all else being equal.