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cowboy25

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  1. Or paint this window brown being the other, increasingly likely, option.
  2. I'm prepared to take that risk re bare joinery looking bad or at least cross that bridge when/if I come to it. But I can't see how to remove the handle for the sash part of the window anyway so not sure if I can get that far.. I've removed screws on the corners but nothing is moving, nothing obvious on the handle to unscrew or hint that it comes away.
  3. I've got this new but second hand rationel small window I'm going to install in a shepherd's hut, trouble is that it came painted white when another window I have ( in the bathroom) is bare wood. And I'm going for a rustic country style throughout the hut, so am planning to strip the window to keep the same style throughout. I've got some bartoline tx10 paint and varnish stripper and was just about the start the job but then a horrific thought came to me, what after attempting this job it looks awful? My main concern is that I won't be able to cleanly remove paint where the metal iron mongery is. The handle to open the window for example which will be highly visible doesn't look like it can be removed like other bits of metal on the product so I would have to work around it. Does anyone here have much experience with paint stripping? Would such a job be able to done to a high enough standard? I can be meticulous and diligent enough when required but need to know if this is even worth starting. If not I'll have to sacrifice the common styling throughout the hut somewhat I suppose.
  4. Doesn't really explaining the four other struts though does it? The building was built by a professional agricultural building company, it isn't something we have knocked up. That it was where the cows entered the building on the left for milking. Don't know why they didn't extend the perpendicular i beams down to the ground but if I remove the two lower struts and then bolt the gable wall to the block work I don't think it would be very 'flappy'. Plus I would extend the block wall to finish the wall which would keep any wind out and bolt onto there as well.
  5. I've had a closer look and those two perpendicular girders on the left don't actually join onto the brick wall there so I suppose the two struts I want to remove can be explained as stopping the end gable wall above the brick work from flapping about. But I don't see why those two struts can't be removed and maybe I can attach the end gable wall to the brick work to stop any flapping about. Also the four other roof struts as seen in the pics don't appear to me to have much purpose although I don't need to remove them so will leave them in place.
  6. Its a solid steel frame construction built in the early 80s everything is sound as far as I'm aware. The wall on the right is just a 'temporary' sheet metal partition add on. The wall on the left is a solid block wall its strong as an ox. But those struts I'm referring to obviously connect to the steel super structure, I only need/ want to remove the two that protrude down low as seen in the first pic.
  7. It was just a big agricultural metal door there which I removed a few years ago, the struts predate that and were probably there on construction of the building. Only thing I can think is that this building used to house a rotary milking parlour making it a special building in that regard but I still can't understand what the struts are for or why a building built to house a rotary milking parlour would need these struts in the roof.
  8. I'm looking to turn this part of an old cattle shed into a workshop extension for building shepherds huts and the like, but what are these metal struts for? And can I remove them? Two of them come down quite low and would totally get in the way of what I would be making. Can I remove them? I've never seen them in this type of construction before.
  9. Yeah I'm looking at track saws, I hadn't really heard of them, they sound great. A chop/ track saw combo could be a good idea going forward to be able to do most cuts it sounds like.
  10. One thing I forgot to mention and not clear in the photograph is the left hand wing of the table saw was bent downwards about half an inch so I was trying to accomodate for this as well when cutting the cls, so obviously this just added to the danger. I have since sorted out that bent left wing - a couple blows with a lump hammer at the top of the support struts where they connect to the table surface sorted that right out, so now the surface is completely level. But yeah I'll no longer be using the table saw for cross cuts, I don't really have the space or £'s for a mitre saw sadly I'll use another type of saw for now, its called a hand saw. Thanks all.
  11. Ah ok I did have a chop saw but thought I could change to a table saw (plus jigsaw) as a 'do it all saw', didn't realise people didn't use it for what I am currently doing. I don't remember having this problem with my old blade but perhaps I wasn't cutting much cls. I have the saw located at my workshop entrance so the most dust goes straight outside.
  12. So I have this table saw I use in my workshop I've had it for a few years and recently changed the blade for the first time with a nice Rutland blade after the original one was blunt as anything causing the wood to smoke and taking ages to cut. I also cleaned out the table saw whilst removing the old blade. The problem is I am using it currently to cut cls studs to the desired length for my project and the blade keeps catching/ jumping/ kicking when I use it even though I'm being quite careful to the point I don't want to use it anymore. The blade seemed ok for the first few weeks with no jumping happening but now not so much. What an I doing wrong? I never really had this problem with my old smoky blade I would have thought a new sharp blade would cause the table saw to kick less.
  13. The planning officer came this week so thats all good. The guy didn't seem that young more like middle age and it seemed quite a casual meeting, I'm now waiting on his report. Hopefully what you say about some LPA's isn't true in my case as the cost of the pre app wasn't exactly cheap in my view.
  14. That doesn't exactly fill me with confidence , I'm in Mid Devon
  15. I need planning as I plan to rent it out as holiday accomodation
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