cowboy25

Yeah I'm looking at track saws, I hadn't really heard of them, they sound great. A chop/ track saw combo could be a good idea going forward to be able to do most cuts it sounds like.

One thing I forgot to mention and not clear in the photograph is the left hand wing of the table saw was bent downwards about half an inch so I was trying to accomodate for this as well when cutting the cls, so obviously this just added to the danger. I have since sorted out that bent left wing - a couple blows with a lump hammer at the top of the support struts where they connect to the table surface sorted that right out, so now the surface is completely level. But yeah I'll no longer be using the table saw for cross cuts, I don't really have the space or £'s for a mitre saw sadly I'll use another type of saw for now, its called a hand saw. Thanks all.

Ah ok I did have a chop saw but thought I could change to a table saw (plus jigsaw) as a 'do it all saw', didn't realise people didn't use it for what I am currently doing. I don't remember having this problem with my old blade but perhaps I wasn't cutting much cls. I have the saw located at my workshop entrance so the most dust goes straight outside.

So I have this table saw I use in my workshop I've had it for a few years and recently changed the blade for the first time with a nice Rutland blade after the original one was blunt as anything causing the wood to smoke and taking ages to cut. I also cleaned out the table saw whilst removing the old blade. The problem is I am using it currently to cut cls studs to the desired length for my project and the blade keeps catching/ jumping/ kicking when I use it even though I'm being quite careful to the point I don't want to use it anymore. The blade seemed ok for the first few weeks with no jumping happening but now not so much. What an I doing wrong? I never really had this problem with my old smoky blade I would have thought a new sharp blade would cause the table saw to kick less.

The planning officer came this week so thats all good. The guy didn't seem that young more like middle age and it seemed quite a casual meeting, I'm now waiting on his report. Hopefully what you say about some LPA's isn't true in my case as the cost of the pre app wasn't exactly cheap in my view.

That doesn't exactly fill me with confidence , I'm in Mid Devon

I need planning as I plan to rent it out as holiday accomodation

I sent off for a pre application about two months ago now and apart from an automated email response I have not heard anything. How long could it take to hear back from my local planning authority? I'm not desperate to hear from them or anything but I'm just curious, could it take a year or so, a few more months, any idea? Its sort of important as I am building a Shepherds hut and if planning is denied I will alter the design of the hut somewhat to take account of this so I will need to know before long.

Its an external wall, so I guess that makes it load bearing? So basically add in one or two cripple studs and double up the king/jack studs. Got it. The header I assume should be a thicker stud as well.

This is for a small window for a bathroom in a shepherds hut which I'm building from scratch. The bathroom is very small so will just have one small window. The size of the wall space is w 121.6 cm by h 195.2 cm and the window is w 48.5cm x h 91cm. Obviously the wall space is quite small so I was wondering if I can just have two vertical studs with the window,window header and window sill contained within as in diagram B. Would this be structurally sound? Or do I need 4 vertical studs as in diagram A? The first photo is the window and the second photo is the bathroom wall space in question between the existing vertical studs.

Is OSB board more resistant I wonder? Whats the answer here, I wasn't expecting this problem, no other wood in my workshop (oak flooring, tongue and groove softwood cladding, oak doors, 2x4 baton etc) is experiencing this problem.

The mould is back on 2 out of the 5 plywood boards to be used as the sub floor of the shepherds hut. Ffs. How much of problem could this be does anyone know?? Can I just scrub it off and start building or do I need to buy more mould remover? Too many setbacks here, can anyone recommend a good mould remover apparently the I used wasn't up to the job.

You are probably right it would stay dry from the rain, still I would be wary of rats as the hut will be sited close to a working farm. I'm not even sure a second layer of ply is necessary if I am honest, it would help with insulation but really I don't worry about floor insulation especially when the hut will have a nice wood burner for warmth. Interesting. Do you have a recommended vendor/ product you could point me to?

The other option is to buy more ply boards cut them up into the correct size squares and slot them in under the kingspan PIR insulation but this would be more expensive and there is still the issue of rot/mould and is ply board totally rodent proof anyway? 🤔 I'm not sure.

No I am on about weld mesh with holes that are 1/4 inch (6.5mm) big which should keep mice out. The website I was looking at said it would in any case.