MikeGrahamT21

Yeah its a cryptocurrency, they give you one coin for each MWh you generate, but they are worthless pretty much, I suppose theres always a chance they could increase in value, unlikely id say!

Its Sunny Portal, from SMA, links into my SMA inverter. They even give one solar coin for every MWh I generate, not that they are worth anything at the moment! lol

Yeah 13T sounds a bit optimistic. I've saved 10T apparently, just nearing 14MWh

I believe DOCSIS3 is a compression protocol that they use to achieve the higher speeds, nothing to do with the cable itself. Cable itself seems to be Hybrid Fibre Coax cable, but don't take my word on it, as I've never seen it in person

As long as there are plenty of openings on both sides of the pitch, there will be plenty of airflow, I can't personally see the need for ridge ventilation, just make sure you leave a gap all the way to the ridge, and a gap from one side of the pitch to the other, so air can move right the way across. If you can't achieve this, then you may require ridge vents to ensure air gets all the way up, in which case dry ridge is your answer.

Minimum 25mm gap, so 50mm absolutely fine, and then put some wedges in the overlaps of the felt to open it up and allow air to flow freely.

Yeah I found the Blauberg one, noticed recently its almost doubled in price!!

Marmox Multiboard is very similar to this stuff, and very good

Have a look here: https://www.silvatimber.co.uk/cladding.html I've had some samples through, quality is good, Siberian Larch may be a good option, less than half the price of WRC.

Get a plastic slider board for your DW and WM!

Have you contacted the manufacturer directly? I don't know how many packs 150m2 comes to, but they may sell to you direct?

I've still not got round to it yet! Had the window fitter here the other day, to take all the specs down and he is going to speak to his supplier, but looking to go with Modus profile, and Pilkington glass to achieve 0.8Uw. Standard Eurocell (Logik 70) is a horrid profile! I've got one of these, last double glazed window we put in, never again! 75mm is the thickness of the window units (not the sill), so the standard profiles tend to be 70mm and accept up to 36mm triple, 75mm gets you up to 44mm triple which is the sweet spot, and then Liniar do a 90mm which I think gives 56mm triple, or quad, but the gap in triple would likely be too wide to make it worth its while. There is also Rehau Geneo if you can get it, another 75mm profile, this one is quite different though, its actually a GRP Fibreglass profile, coated in PVC as a top coating, making it very strong and thermally efficient. Will post some pics when they are in, probably won't be til May/June time when its a bit warmer and less windy.

Yeah definitely going to run the cable through conduit, was just the pipes I was thinking of taping direct to the membrane.

Interesting stuff!

wow that is expensive. I've seen airtight silicone cheaper than that! Whats the difference?

not sure about taping to foam, doesn't seem like a reliable connection? OK, will consider running a couple of pipes through, seems like a decent solution. I suppose I should consider just running the pipes and cables bare as well, and taping them to the fabric, would be no different to when I did heating pipes a couple of years back and they were OK, maybe i'm over complicating things as usual! lol. I think its more the electrical wires which could do with being piped, and so I can pull new ones in if needed in future without disturbing everything.

Cool, at least im on the right tracks then. How much did you fit through one pipe out of curiosity?

Hi, Going to be starting the kitchen at some point soon which is in an extension I built about 10 years ago, got everything planned, but need a solution for the electrical cables and water pipes to come up through the floor (suspended wood) whilst being airtight. So i'll need two water pipes (1 hot, 1 cold) plus insulation, and then the usual plethora of electrical cables for the kitchen stuff and sockets. My initial thought was to use some semi rigid radial pipe (a bit like whats used in MVHR, but maybe 100mm diameter rather than 75mm) and leave a piece of rope through it to pull anything else through in future, should be easy enough to seal to the floor membrane on both sides. The entry point is the boiler cupboard, and the exit point will be about 2-2.5m away on the opposite side of the room underneath the kitchen units. Anyone got any ideas for solutions? Cheers

The plans were validated, with a target date of March 30th for approval.

I think you're main issue here is the width of the existing 'utility room', I'm assuming its 2.5m wide x 2m long? If you are going galley kitchen, or u shaped, the remaining floor space is going to be very restricted. My kitchen is 3.2m wide, and its tight. In an ideal world you would want the new extension to replace the existing utility and be at least as wide as the dining room. Try and think about the quality of the space you'll end up with. The picture you have just posted, is an example of what i've just described, so its obvious that you are dreaming of something more than what you've drawn primarily. Appreciate you are on a budget though, and I've never had to call on trades to do building work so I don't really know how much stuff costs, only the materials. Perhaps you haven't found the right builder yet? EDIT: Sorry just re-read your post, about it being a one sided kitchen, perhaps the width isn't too much of an issue in that case.

+1 for considering going full width, I don't see why this wouldn't be possible. Are you doing the build yourself or getting someone in?

All lintels generally require a minimum 150mm contact area on each side

+1 for dry ridge. If the roof is fairly old, and the tiles are concrete, be very careful walking on them as they will be quite brittle and could crack, so make sure you've a few spares knocking about to replace any which go. I always try and walk on the joints, as theres a bit more thickness of tile to support my weight.

The built in tape on the barriair is meant to form a tape to tape bond, which is very strong, but its hard to get a smooth seal sometimes, so I used both this and some more tape on the flapping bit of VCL to double seal it.

I was reading an article on the BRE the other day about explosive centre panes, according to them its a good idea to have a toughened centre pane, no idea how much it adds to cost, it said they experience greater stresses than the panes in a double glazed unit.