MikeGrahamT21

If the whole of eurocell is the same as my local branch, they only supply AGC glazing now, which will only get you to around 1.0U, so to achieve this you would need to source the glazing from somewhere else.

I wouldn’t be stressing over 3mm, 47mm is ample for an air gap.

How about leave the door as is, no sill, and instead use something like this under it: https://ewistore.co.uk/shop/external-wall-insulation/verge-trim-upstand-2-5m-110mm/ As long as its sealed correctly in the right places it should work. There will be a thermal bridge of course, but if its an outbuilding it shouldn't cause you issues.

They all need to be metal under current edition regs afaik. You'd probably be hard pressed to buy a new plastic one!

Yeah its definitely not a free upgrade!

assuming they were to the spec of the time they’ll be somewhere between 1.8 and 2.2U

Both, good to know you are happy with their products.

I too am going to be using these, window spec is spot on, I think its either 40 or 44mm triple.

Who is your supplier?

I looked at these also, initially looked very good, but I wasn't convinced with the seals on the units, too few and in awkward places, so I decided against

These installed both my PV and Battery, they use local installers round the country, essentially they’re just a reseller.

Could be drying out still… last time I did a rough WUFI calc for adding EWI to my 60 year old bungalow, it took around 4-5 years for the humidity in the masonry to absolutely settle out and that’s a long time after construction.

Kooltherm is Phenolic, I don't know of any other manufacturers that do this type insulation, others are PIR. Take a look on seconds and co, you may get some cheaper on here with a few knocks to it, or a few mm out.

Yeah thats all its for, basically a check valve.

The bit where the can attaches, use a socket to remove the top bit, this holds the ball valve. Once that bit is off, you can then use an allen key to remove the brass part from this section, and the ball and the spring will come out. This is often so clogged up it ends up looking like solid plastic!

Could be worth enlisting the help of a company like snagsure, they will give everything a once over and then persue the builders to remediation

Hi, I’ve managed to find a builder, though at present they haven’t started yet (were due beginning of month but are behind) so I’m hoping that this won’t be an issue for me as currently I’m not well enough to do any digging. sorry can’t give any more help. Mike

As promised a little update on the Battery Storage. Firstly i'm very glad I bought when I did, as everything battery storage wise has skyrocketed in price since, even the prospect of adding a US2000C seems unlikely for now, though to be honest, going on my usage I don't think it would add a great deal of benefit. So I'm running the Solis 5th Generation AC Coupled Inverter, which does have a couple of niggles, which at present are reducing its savings potential. Those issues are: Whenever the battery isn't at 100% SOC, it pulls an amount of power from the grid, somewhere between 60W and 100W Even when the battery is actively charging, it still pulls the same 60-100W from the grid, regardless if there is enough PV power to charge the battery and cover loads at the same time. Once the battery is 100% SOC and im generating PV more than my load, I import 0W. Pulsating loads (such as induction hob) the unit can find hard to track, due to their pulsing nature, and the delay in reading the CT clamp and acting upon it. Now my base load is around 45W, so that means that since i've had the battery, i'm actually consuming more during the nighttime than i did previously, which is a negative. I got in touch with Solis UK Support about this issue, and they say they are aware of it, and are going to be adding 2 offset values which will be user configurable to combat this problem, and they've told me it will be available in around 2 weeks time, so we shall see. So although it will be a static value, i should be able to get much nearer to 0W import from grid whilst ever there is charge in the battery, but its not at 100%, and its not over its maximum demand (around 1.8kW). To better news, aside from the issues above which should get resolved, the system is essentially running off grid now, and has been since the middle to end of february, pretty much every day without fail, just with the odd bit of import for things like kettle and oven, to cover above the 1.8kW if the Solar isn't generating enough at the time, which is getting an ever smaller occurence. So the graph above is from March, with the Red bits on the top graph being the bits of import. The bit at the top showing 22kWh import, the majority of this was during the early february days after install when solar PV wasn't doing an awful lot. As you can see I'm still exporting ample amounts to the grid also, not that it would make any difference at this stage. Until I get the full years amount, its almost impossible to say how much this will have reduced by. Today I've done a load of washing and then dried it in the heat pump dryer, and following that I ran the oven on its Pyro clean cycle, and come tea time, i'll be fully charged again and ready for the evening (Thai Curry if you were wondering!). This one I'm keeping an eye on, obviously we know that these inverters will never be 100% efficient, but from those figures i've sent 177kWh to the battery, and only been able to get 124kWh back out again. Some of this will be down to the BMS consuming power to keep the battery healthy. So the inverter is 94.0% efficient at charging (100kWh sent to the battery will yield 94kWh of charge in the battery), and 94.5% efficient at discharging (1kWh being discharged from the battery will yield 945Wh). Please correct me if my maths is off! Entirely possible as I've got the plague at the moment! For how much its changed my import amounts, another tricky one which will have to wait for the end of this month, or maybe even next. I didn't get the smart meter installed til the end of March last year, but as a comparison: March 2021 (18th to 31st) - Imported 46.9kWh March 2022 (1st to 31st) - Imported 48.3kWh And this will drop further with the firmware upgrade. Will keep you posted in another couple of months time!

There’s also the farrow and ball ‘smell’ very unique

larger steel sections from memory, they are more profiled to absorb shock. Double boarding on these will also likely help

Set yourself a target as to what you want to achieve, whether its just cosmetic, or to make it thermally efficient, that way you won't end up doing bits and then having to undo them to do something else because you've changed your target. Hopefully your pockets aren't too shallow, most properties eat money these days!

Edit: Ignore me lol

G100 compliance is only required if the DNO ask for it from memory, so submit your G99 fast track first. This inverter doesn't support G100, they sell a Export Power Manager for that functionality. Its worth noting that this inverter does have the fail safe option for if it loses connectivity with the CT clamp. Double check this though, as I may well be wrong, perhaps I actually do need it and just don't realise, but this wasn't mentioned by the installer. Be warned, self install seems to invalidate pretty much every warranty from what i found out, which is why i decided to pay for it to be put in. Take a look at my blog on here, almost certain I put photos in there.

Its G99 fast track for energy storage, the installer did this for me. Products and installation came from here: https://www.solar-energy-store.co.uk/

I lined my inital ones with DPM, but found it just sits with water and you end up getting soil down it that you can't get rid of. Needless to say the wood didn't last very long. I've re-done them, this time without plastic, only a year in so can't comment on longevity, but hoping it'll be much better, certainly didn't gain anything from using the DPM. Make sure you double coat with a good fence paint on the side you won't see, and that should help more.