gaz_moose

wind bags 😆 air hog win bags. i forgot about those (sorry). i bought some cheap ones once when i had misplaced my decent ones and they were equally as good.

pack the frame out in the hole using your spacers to get it square and level. measure 150mm down/ up from the inside and drill 7mm holes in the frame and then sds drill pilot holes into the brickwork then use torx head concrete screws. put some in the middle also, then using adhesive expanding foam around the gaps. i would probably use a knock on or add-on instead of packing it that much, or strips of timber then trim over. compriband is good stuff to use around the edge. i hate those fixings with the built in rawl plug. they get half way in and jam up then your fuuked.

I'm doing an EPDM cold roof due to height restrictions and plan on using an abutment vent where it meets a wall on one of the sides. is there an off the shelf trim i can buy to act as the flashing like in the image, or what would be my best method method to achieve this? is it something that would be made out of lead? sorry for the basic question but roofing is not something ive done much of.

why would you scrap a wheel barrow 😆 list most of it on Ebay / market place. for the scrap metal just call up a local scrap man, ask on a local facebook group. its not far off bonfire night if you have the space to burn all the scrap wood. if you have a load of untreated wood give it to someone with a wood burner.

Wickes Orlando/Madison White Decor Tall Panel - 18mm | Wickes.co.uk something like this

looks like you have a nice project on your hands. im a very amateur bricky and i built a 'gauging stick' by literally drawing pencil lines on a length of timber at each course height, which i then use when building corners to ensure my gauging is correct. Build the corners up first as you go along and string stretched between line blocks. if its a long run use a twig/tingle to support it in the centre. or tear off a strip of cement bag and fold it over the line and plonk a brick ontop.

could you buy a knock-on and sit it on that? probably wont knock in if you have opted for low threshold Wickes White uPVC Frame Extender - 20mm x 1850mm | Wickes.co.uk obviously not from wickes, they do them inaluminium if your door is mega heavy.

last year i had a quote and it was £1200 but never went through with the order. i submitted the same details and was quoted £1600 last week.

get a 'magic man' to quote you for fixing it.

looks like fibre glass to me.

id be tempted to just lay the new stuff over the old.

Paper suit and washing up gloves masking taped to your sleeves. a new suit each day you plan on doing it isn't a bad shout. One with eye protection would be best but you will be boiling hot so it will just steam up so just get the one you linked.

The roof, windows and doors on my current conservatory are knackered so i was going to replace them before the winter gets here. i was looking at these warm roof type options that people fit these days. the fake plastic roof tiles look abit rubbish so i was considering EPDM as the dimensions are 2.8m x 4m so it shouldn't be too difficult or heavy to lay. something like this. it seems half the battle to make them not look stupid is to keep the whole roof structure as thin as possible. id considered using a 44x145 c16 joist and then doing it as a cold roof with 100m celotex which would give me a 45mm air gap and a U value of 0.2. but then i see people doing them like this with the insulation pressed up against the OSB roof sheeting which confuses me as i thought the air gap should be between the insulation and the OSB. I know the real answer is to knock the whole thing down and build an extension but it wont add any real value to the property and i don't want to spend the money🙄. what would be the best (thinnest) roof option to go for?

you could use the twin wall polycarbonate sheets. my friend did his with the opaque sections they use in industrial units. they are an off white creamy colour that let light through but wont melt you like a conservatory roof if its sunny.

get it media blasted.

DIY sent me 10 damaged worktops in a row. 2 of the cupboards were out of square. 2 of the centre posts were too long so cupboard top and bottom pieces bowed so the door gaps are bigger in the centre. 4 drawer faces were chipped and my pull out towel rail was scratched. its worth getting the sink unit delivered dry built so you can adjust it easily for your pipes. the same goes for a 60/40 fridge/freezer unit. as i had to cut the back panel off mine and i had to build a box to go under the Fridge freezer to raise it up as the 'split' of the doors didn't line up. one of the doors slit about a year in so they had to post a replacement. all of their draw and hinges are BLUM.

how about some Chocks that slip either side of the wheels.

try speaking to 'worktop express' in birmingham.

as has been said, dry lining paper tape will work.

ive this mixer. the shroud on the drum sits against the big seal and the pin of the clips locates behind the big bearing. sometimes the drum can be hard to get back off and wants a good wack, maybe yours is difficult to get on and wants a good wack.

i bought some thickener last week, it was basically just plant food with a few seeds, your better off just buying some seeds and sticking that down instead. get the ones that are coated in the bright green stuff as the birds don't seem to eat it.

i was under the impression you shouldn't mix and match push fit systems. which way are the pipes going into the wall box? will it turn 180 degree

put all of the saw dust created from grinding the stump into sturdy black bin bags and advertise it on market place. i filled 20+ bags and gave them all away, i could have given 100 bags away. if you can dig around the stump the grinder will be able to reach a deeper depth. i have a similar predicament so am watching to see how you get on. i think the digger bucket will snag on all the old roots and rip the ground to bits leaving terrible trenches.

100mm. i used the screwfix ones, they come with a star drive impact driver bit too match the screws. then 6mm sds drill bit with a 100mm drill length.

if it goes under the bottom of the door frame it will be a bugger to change, id be tempted to get a 'magic man' to come and fix it. or put an over sill ontop of it.