Frogeye

19 'working' days ?

Switchbot? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B7NXV4R/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=paulhibbertco-21&creative=6738&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07B7NXV4R&linkId=23199595b597e38ad5b10312c296c07c I saw this on Paul' Hibbert's YouTube channel recently and am tempted to try this myself to control my ashp switch via HomeAssistant. You will also probably need the hub that links this switch to the mobile app (another £30 or so)

Hi, I had quite a few bits from a company called Drainage365(.co.uk?). Run by a really helpful guy (Simon?). He been in the industry for a long time and recently set this company up - he might be worth a call and could probably point you in the right direction if he can't help you himself.

What about just using a powerline adapter at the gate end and just send the data 'through the mains'? https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-PA4010KIT-V1-20-Powerline-Configuration-UK/dp/B01BECPIMC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1515256721&sr=8-3&keywords=powerline+adapter

Thanks everyone for the range of inputs. I'm going to have a try with a length of stainless chain which I'm thinking of attaching to some kind of grill topped gulley, which I can then disguise with suitable pebbles. I'm considering doing away with any sort of hopper/gulley on the guttering and just putting a blanking plate over then end then drilling a suitable size hole in the gutter just large enough to poke the top link of chain through. I'll post some photos of my next attempt in a week or so!

Hi, I've just stopped partway through putting guttering on the newly fitted porch having remembered once seeing someone with a 'rain chain' on a house (where it added a bit of architectural appeal). Something like this: Whilst my house is nothing like that above, I didn't want to fix a downpipe off my nice oak pillars, but I'm not that happy with how returning the gutter back to the house wall and then into a downpipe looks either (hence downing tools and carry out a bit of surfing). There seem to be an array of novelty chains for this purpose - however I'm picturing a plain 6 or 8mm thick stainless or black chain coming down from the front corner, but am wondering how this would terminate in to soil pipe. Has anyone got any experience of this? I'm can't think that there will ever be a lot of water in any case. Current setup...

I used some left over MVHR ducting to get to my shed, I have shoved some armoured cable in already in case it collapses with light traffic, but also slightly worry about rodents using it as an expressway!

Well done. It looks spectacular - you must be really chuffed. Was this your first project? Looking forward to some pictures of your stove!

@Stones I ran the UFC (?) at temperatures down to about 16C (before I realised that I hadn't limited the target setting - now set to 18C). Downstairs I have mostly stone tiled flooring and I would say that I could notice the cooling effect within a couple of hours. In carpeted areas and upstairs it was less obvious but (i think) noticeable this morning - although I turned the 'cooling' off last night and just left the floor in circulation only mode. This morning the apparent UFH flow temperature is 21C and I switched the ASHP cooling back on with it now set to 18C @Trw144 I have a Panasonic Aquarea ASHP and it was remarkable easy to activate the cooling function (normally disabled in the UK because of the RHI scheme). Initially I was a bit scared off by the thought of wiring/ valves etc. but armed with a few installer settings it was all done through the control panel. Check to see what the target temperature is set too though as my buffer tank was trying to get to 10C. I've got a Wunda UFH and have been running with all loops open since installation (why did I buy all those actuators and wireless room stats!!). I just set my target temperature to 30C just to get the pumps running and with the heating switched off at the ASHP this just acts to circulate the water throughout the house and buffer tank sharing the heat burden around the house(which is what I have been doing for the last few weeks)

I've been a bit too warm over the last few nights with house temp around 24/25 C. However today I have managed to get the UFH into cooling mode and this has had a real impact in a pretty short space of time (hoping my stone floor doesn't suffer as a result). I've also switched the air duct at the top of my vaulted hallway to extract rather than supply and am optimistic that will help drag out some trapped heat.

...... if only my building control inspector (independent) was so obliging!

Its max output is 7kW. I think I'd need about half an air-brick to meet this requirement. As it stands my stove is being supplied by a 110mm soil pipe which pokes in to an underfloor void fed by about 38 air bricks.

I am amidst a bit of a problem trying to get my stove signed off because of its direct air feed. I've got the Jotul F373 and this has an air feed through the pedestal from the void under my beam and block floor. I'm pretty sure that I've seen a picture in the building reg book depicting an air intake from a subfloor void - however my installers are telling me that this doesn't apply to direct air feed stoves and that I will have to have a continuous pipe under the sub floor to the outside wall. I'm contesting this but being told that this is coming from the HETAS regs. I don't know if anyone else has run into this issue? I'm hoping to find a more understanding installer who would be happy to sign it off.

Was your price for a full flight or like the one pictured?

Be sure to have tight folds against the edges so that the polythene doesn't act as a mould and end up putting a curve in the edges and making them a bit too thin -(your polythene looks quite a thick gauge - is this also a dpm?)

I'd be a bit concerned that the 10mm gravel may damage the ufh pipe as it is being crunched around on whilst being laid

Hi Gary, I have just come across your new youtube video which might be helpful to watch for some of those on the forum looking to self install - I'm about to commission mine after installing it some months back - fingers crossed!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54B0o3DtOtw

Have you told them you'll be having a heat pump? They seem to want to charge you for a transformer upgrade whenever you mention one!

I went for the battening the web joist route and got on very well with it. I used a 22mm x 90mm sawn timber (or thereabouts) pasloded and D4 glued on to my webjoists (about 70mm wide), nailed down the spreader plates with some clout nails, threaded in the pipe and then boarded out with 22mm egger chipboard (glued and screwed). Things I learnt as I went - have a decent sized sharpie pen and make notes of where pipes cross over the joists to avoid mindless screwing mistakes, don't weave the the pipe even under one joist (see below) - even on a small ensuite circuit that whole length of pipe then needs to be threaded down that same route. I bought an air stapler (on NickfromWales advice/suggestion) only £20 off Amazon and fixed the spreader plates back to the underside of the flooring (done from below) - having an enthuasiatic 15 year old also helped this job go well Another real benefit that helped a lot (I didn't learn this until I made my way downstairs to do the ground floor) is to use a bending spring on the pipe to help with forming corners and tight bends: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UFH-PROFESSIONAL-UNDERFLOOR-HEATING-AL-PEX-PIPE-SPRING-BENDER-/141260384210?var=&hash=item20e3c667d2:m:mH_qsDtK7756rsBIEu_V3Bw I think I could have lived without a pipe-decoiler, I had 500m coils from Boulder and these were more than it could cope with, just rotating the coil on a clear bit of board seemed to go just as well. This was one of the more rewarding things I did on the build - good luck!

@Alphonsox Are you prepared to share with us a ball park figure of cost for a 10kwh setup like this?

Yes, that is true. Ours had a couple of 'pallet steps' under it

I got a straight flight from Howdens for £120 + vat, it wasn't worth thinking about getting the chippie to make one at this price. They seem to sell on ebay at £80 ish second hand, so I should get some cashback at the end of the build. (added to the thread as an information source only!!)

Thanks for the clarity on that Nick. I've seen a few youtubers using them needlessly and wondered if their design had been radically improved since I last encountered them - I'll keep them in the 'emergency use only' category!

Just going back a page or two.... Nick on your installation photos it looks like you've used a flexible waste connector for the floor standing pan - does this make things a lot easier?

Have you any pictures of your external blinds Bitpipe?