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@saveasteading Tbh there's been no such dusty works since the finishing of the grout. It's just been installing the fittings, toilet. Outside of the bathroom there's been skirting and loft insulation but we have a dust guard thing down over the bathroom entrance. Been trying all sorts to clean it off. It hasn't so far budged. Was thinking of getting some grout or mould cleaner from screwfix on my way back over tomorrow and seeing what effect that that but thought I'd seek advice here first. @ToughButterCup I'll have a go tomorrow with the diluted bleach and scrubbing and see how it gets on. Bathroom is slowly getting some temp in it so hopefully by the morning it'll be better. Thanks for the heads up!

Shower along with the whole bathroom has not been used, and most likely won't be for another 3-4 weeks at least. This particular area in the picture is behind where the bathtub will be. There's another area which is on an opposite wall and one more to the side of the toilet. The toilet is the only thing that's plumbed in and operational, and has been for the last 2 weeks. House is unoccupied so toilet only used when we're here doing work.

Hi all, can anyone help identify what this staining is to the grout? a quick Google has brought up it possibly being pink mould but wanted to get some other opinions as well? For info, the grouting was completed in the first week of Jan, and the bathroom hasn't had any heat on until today. the bathroom is not in use and won't be for another 3-4 weeks. thanks

@Adam2 Not sure on whether one is better then the other but I've just fitted the same shower set up you're after. I went with a Hansgrohe ceiling mounted shower head (but sunk this into the ceiling) and Crosswater's Crossbox valves and a Crosswater shower handset. The Crosswater valve was easy to fit and most importantly, to test, before tiling all round it. Would definitely recommend the valve.

FFX, Nuts and Bolts and Healy's Tools are who I normally use when purchasing Festool stuff.

@GaryMIf you haven't purchased a former yet have a look at the infinity option from On the Level. This is what I have and it's just 1 slope to the wall so no cuts to make.

Ignore that. Just saw Zehnder in the title and didn't read it through properly?

I've got a spare Roda Spa Asym electric in matt black for sale. Has a very slight mark in the corner but other then that brand new, never been fitted.

Noted and added to the weekend's job list??. Had to go with epoxy for the mitred edges, read up that's the way with them. Then just thought, why waste a bucket, may as well slap it everywhere else. It doesn't half dry quick but the Kerakoll stuff isn't as bad as others to get off especially with their wash and soap products. Been told other stuff is a proper nightmare!

I see what you mean with 'if the glass will slide, there's enough gap for water. I did put a bead of CT-1 but it definitely didn't displace all out once the glass finally went in. On the walls and floor I went with epoxy grout and packed it right upto the glass before siliconing over. Only edge this couldn't be done on is the inside of the shower area as the track is at the edge of how the shower tray slopes down to the gap at the back for the drain. I'll get a tight bead of CT-1 pushed into this and hope that helps. Maybe wishful thinking is the UFH underneath will help it dry out?, not helpful in the summer time though!

Hi @Kevlar There's no rubber seal. I spoke to Schluter about it when I was deciding how to go about it and they noted they never use it as the track has a specific internal size and you just get the glass accordingly. I went with the 12mm track so got 12mm toughened glass. I did pop a thin bead of CT-1 in the track prior to whacking the glass in, but tbh I don't think that was needed. Its very snug hence having to give it some pretty heavy whacks to get it in! Yes, I just used some roofing baton to rest the glass on, push it up to the wall track tight, and then proceeded to whack it in using the block and hammer. Once it went in all the way in to the wall track, I used a Grabo suction tool on the glass, and then just bounced on that to get it into the bottom track. To give you an idea ion the strength of the track, the glass weights 60kg, and after I had it in the wall track, I pulled out the batons and it just suspended itself there! Its very much fixed in there and would be a ball ache if it ever broke and needed replacing as I cut the last tile on the left to sit over the top of the glass, but hey ho. Cross that bridge if I come to it! You can just about see it in these pics,

I did something similar to yourself but used an F shaped channel on the wall and floor. Had to install this all plumb and level and then tiled either side. If you're going to do it this way definitely clean the adhesive as it presses against the track and can cause it to pinch. I used 12mm toughened glass. Had it on some battens and whacked it with a hammer and block into the wall track, then using a suction tool pushed it down into the floor track, after removing the battens. It's very tight in the track, and seems to be very stable and plumb. Some photo's of the finished-ish result, This is the track I used

I used Origin for my aluminium windows. I'm sure if you contacted them they'd be able to recommend an installer local to you. I set up an account to buy them direct and fitted them myself.

Hi @OldSpot i used them on the PT1000 sensors that came with the Grant GSX1 I’m using on my buffer vessel.

I got recommend some of this stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Transfer-Compound/dp/B004SPJQOO/ref=asc_df_B004SPJQOO/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=214529255954&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7787961005754097483&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006933&hvtargid=pla-310306505459&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Tbh my girlfriend is the one that does the painting so I’m just going off what she says. She’s only used F&B and Dulux paint and I think it’s only the Dulux she needs to dilute ever so slightly. But she does wash it out between every coat so maybe that helps to minimise any blockages.

Could you not just use a channel which you screw through on the bottom and wall and push the glass into that? I’ve just fitted a glass partition for the shower but used a tile profile which had a 12mm channel. A bead of CT-1 in the channel then slotted it in…..and when I say slotted I mean a block of wood and a hammer and forced the glass in? toughened glass is pretty tough. This is the profile I used but I’m sure there’s one that doesn’t need tiling over https://www.schluter.co.uk/deco-sg.aspx

Apolgies on jumping in on this thread but @nod where did you get your Italian porcelain tiles from?

We’ve got a Wagner sprayer. Simple to clean out between coats and has been very reliable. Would happily recommend.

@gaz_moose thanks for this. I see they also do matt black ones so that can be a like for like with what I have to replace.

Hi all. I've got a shower handset that's for the bath and due to its location and the material the hose is made from I'm concerned with use this will mark/scratch the bath. I used to have this kitchen tap in my old property and the pull out was incases in a silicone material, https://www.caple.co.uk/products/sinks-taps-2/taps/pull-out-taps/nav-bk/ Does anyone know if the same sort of silicone sleeve, or even replace the hose with a silicone equivalent, is available?

Hi @SDUGoten I too am using a combi, albeit an external oil one. The manifold on the first floor would just tee into the flow and return coming off the boiler if you aren’t going to use a buffer vessel. And same with the ground floor.

@SDUGoten I have recently installed UFH on the first floor with the ground floor to follow when I get round to refurbing that area. The flow and return to the manifold come off my buffer vessel. When the ground floor gets done, I'll tee into this flow and return and go to the downstairs manifold. Hope this helps.

@Adsibob I’ve got one of these for sale that I’m looking to sell, https://www.epicradiators.co.uk/products/zehnder-roda-spa-electric?variant=27995067187300 It’s only 828mm tall though but I ordered the matt black version.

Got a couple of mirrors that I'm hoping will be flush with the finished wall tiles. I've got some trim which I was going to cut around the mirrors, but just wondering if it would be wise to affix the mirrors to the wall first, then apply the trim around it and then tile up to that?