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Hi @Nickfromwales Good to know. I was starting to think he gave me it as it was knackered! Worth getting one of those cleaning/sharpening blocks up to use in between x amount of cuts? It cuts neat and tidy the whole way through the tile although I do slow the pace right down when getting towards the end. Only issue is a slight breakaway on the underside of the last few mm but, as it’s on the underside it’s not seen or interfere’s with anything. There’s definitely a squeaky bum moment as I’m cutting them as they’re only 6mm thick so it feels like at any moment they’ll crack. When testing I did have 1 crack but thankfully it was on an offcut area!

So I was fortunate enough to get a 'barely used' Montolit Perfetto blade off a friend. I'm starting to wonder why he offered it to me (FOC so can't complain) as it take ages to cut. Feels like its struggling and I'm completing a cut at maybe a couple of mm a second....and there 1000mm tiles. The cuts are pretty clean though and just needed the faintest of touches with a 200grit grinding cup. Is this how its supposed to be with regards to pace? I've got a Montolit blade in my angle grinder and that cuts through much easier/quicker albeit rougher (didn't matter too much as the cuts were on the outside and would be hidden by the wall tiles. But I will need to do some cuts around the windows so would like these to be as clean as possible. I've seen a 'cleaning/sharpening' block on ProTilerTools, worth trying this out? Or just going with the Rubi or Vitrex as recommended by @Nickfromwales and @Gone West?

Hi @PeterW Thanks for the reply. Yes just read through on the extractor fan web page and it notes it has an overrun timer. Just double checked that PIR I linked to and it would appear they do a variant that is sealed so suited for bathrooms etc so will opt for that model.

Hi all, Looking to have my bathroom extractor fan turn on via a PIR instead of on with the light switch. Main reason for this is the bathroom gets lots of light in during the day and if showering at that time there's no need for the light, and so an extractor fan wouldn't turn on. I also have a fan isolator mounted above the bathroom door outside the bathroom. The extractor fan is this https://www.extractorfanworld.co.uk/envirovent-silmv250100t-ultra-quiet-inline-fan--timer-4358-p.asp And I was thinking of this https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/204587-ceiling-flush-mounted-pir-occupancy-switch-white?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5JqG55Cp9AIVEc53Ch3-jQP4EAQYBCABEgLbF_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds to trigger it. Can anyone confirm if this would work?

Thanks @Nickfromwales I'll take a gander now.

Hi all, Got some 6mm porcelain tiles to cut. Any recommendation for blade to go in my wet saw. Blade size is 200mm. Thanks

@Fly100 Thanks for the reply. I'll bring up the temp on the stats then as at present they're on the factory default 17°. Manifold flow temp is currently ready 27° and tomorrow it will have been 48hrs since turning on so I'll increase this by 5°.

Hi all, So finally got my UFH system fired up and at present mixing valve is set to minimum. I know to steadily increase this every 2-3 days, however what temperature should I set the thermostats to during this phase? At present they are at the factory default 'reduced' temp of 17° according to Wunda. They were at 35° (on the thermostats)for a couple of hours after I installed the auto balancing actuators so they could calibrate themselves.

@OldSpot @RHayes This is the controller I went with, https://grantengineering.ie/media/1299/grant-gsx1-solar-controller-gs222765-manual-doc97-rev00-november-2013.pdf Wired it to the boiler via the S Plan and using one of these to fire up the boiler when needed https://www.discountfiresupplies.co.uk/product/280/555/Easy-Relay-240V-Mains-Relay-(230V-AC-50_60Hz-Coil)-in-White-or-Red-Single-Gang-Box?utm_source=Google%2BProducts&utm_medium=Price%2BComparison&utm_campaign=Google%2BProducts&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiJLXssL_8wIVBLDtCh3MKgkqEAQYAiABEgJLlPD_BwE#148 Got recommended this set up via another heating engineer whose done more of these setups. The Grant controller is used in thermostat mode, and comes with 2 probes. This just monitors the temperature of the tank via the 2 probes. The relay is used to engage the boiler when needed. Had another things crop up last weekend so hoping if no hiccups I'll get onto firing it all up this weekend so can report back.

Anyone know of any carpet fitters in the Buckinghamshire area (or one that would travel to) that may be interested in any work? Wanting to get some quotes in and so far only found 1 that's been recommended that would quote. Wanted to at least 2 quotes.

@tanneja maybe this underlay would be of use for the areas with UFH https://wilsons-underlays.co.uk/thermalstream.html It's what we're planning and have UFH throughout the first floor and will have carpet (low tog of 1.3) everywhere except bathroom.

the sectional drawing for my toilet shows the height from finished floor so I used that as a guide. Cut a bit of ply to use as a template, adjusted slightly and then screwed it all up.

@ProDave ah ha! Completely by passed that in my head the pump would need to be running ? I'll get them all done then first thing. Saves doing them later.

Going to fire up the UFH I've installed recently tomorrow, fingers crossed. Is it necessary to install and pair the thermostats? (They're wireless smart stats), or can I simply open the actuators fully and then slowly increase the heat via the mixing valve?

@Onoff Thanks for this. Although already very solid I inclipped the cistern like you did and inserted another couple of screws through the very top mounting holes.

@James94 so there’s the screws in through the feet, and then I used to hex washer heads which screw through the frame into the timber. These are located just beneath cistern. There’s also a location for another 2 screws right at the top of the frame on either side however these are difficult to get to from the inside, but it’s rock solid as it is. Water inlet and waste are pretty self explanatory. You’ll breeze through installing it.

@RHayes Thabk you for confirming. According to the MI the white link is used when there's no timer/programmer for the hot water. So I guess it's on permanently when there's a demand being called for. And I got the thermostat controller sorted. Spoke to a heating engineer who had done more installs like this, especially with oil, and he uses a Grant temperature difference controller. This monitors the temperature via 2 thermostat probes (which is included). Then when there's a call for heat and the buffer needs topping up, via a relay (I can link to this if interested) it fires up the boiler. Buffer arrives tomorrow so hopefully at some point I'll plumb it all in!

@TonyT if that was referring to my post then yes I've got plenty of insulation and clips to go on. But tbh, that's a good few weeks away because new windows need to be fitted prior to that wall being boarded in Marmox stuff. And that plywood is just an offcut I used to marking out from finished floor. It was just by chance it was in that pic.

@James94 Currently I'm at this stage. The upright the piece of ply is resting against is the right hand side (when looking at it) of the toilet frame. Frame arrives later today so tomorrow I'll hopefully fit it and will take another pic. the pipe that's curling up to the left of that ply is the water feed to it. I've got 200mm from the block wall to the front of the timber so that should comfortably allow the waste pipe to go right and then exit out of the wall in between the 2 windows. Stack is going there on the outside. Will see when the frame arrives later today what side the electrical connection comes in from and fit some conduit on the wall to run that down. I'll get another pic done once it's fitted.

@James94 I've got a UP320 frame supposedly arriving tomorrow. Had to knock up a false wall so I'm fitting all connections behind this. Like you I've got a horizontal pipe which will go through the wall to the stack. I've fitted one in my old place and tbh once you have it to hand it's pretty straight forward. Got the auto air extraction arriving as well. Unsure if this is allowed for in the frame but looks like the connections are housed in a small box which fits in the toilet void before you attach it to the frame.

I've just completed my first floor UFH using Wunda. If you're joists can take the extra dead load I'd happily say that doing a pug mix install is straightforward enough. Instructions from Wunda are all I followed, only amendment is I used 100mm insulation rather then 50mm. I made a start last Sunday installing ply T&G flooring with lots of D4 glue and lots of screws. Opted for ply based T&G rather then chipboard to save on weight.

If you can open it up slightly there's this https://sunluxroofwindows.co.uk/loft-ladders/324-mini-60cm-x-80cm-woodenmetal-folding-loft-ladder-hatch-5907572704235.html I've fitted one of these for a customer in the past. Did the job well.

Would these work https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4864836-mpro-6w-led-fire-rated-dimmable-downlight-without-bezel-3000k?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjNOzrKfI8wIVZWHmCh2TbAXvEAQYCiABEgJ3uPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Need to get my buffer tank ordered up with Newark Cylinders and just wanted to confirm the location of the 2 pockets for the thermostats. I'm thinking my flows would be 1/4 of the way down and returns would be 3/4 of the way down. Initial thoughts was to keep the 2 thermostat pockets at those locations, or should they be wider apart or closer?

We've got a SWS roller door since 2019. Seems to do the job and has been trouble free. Was working in the garage last winter and was comfortable in the garage with the door down.