Dee J

Well Hello again. Well as you know, we ditched our self build plans with cries of never again.... but. We might have a new, smaller side-project. We have acquired a two-storey garage workshop building. We'd like to convert the 50 sq m top floor into a studio flat and keep the rest as garage/attelier. There is current consent (gained on appeal) to demolish the whole lot and cram in two tiny terrace houses - but we really don't like that plan. Let's hope we can get our simpler option through. D

Most spares are available and storage heaters are a fairly easy fix. So mend the old one or replace with a new basic equivalent. Steer clear of the new patent expensive storage heater replacements... they're mostly snake oil with over complex controls. Hth Dee

Well. After a year of negotiating on a plot and trying to meet the many challenges it presented, we have, at the eleventh hour, reconsidered. No plot purchase, no build. We'll still be selling up and downsizing, but no fixed plans after that. There might yet be a future project, but there's nothing in mind at the moment. Thanks for all your support and advice. Might still drop by on occasions, meanwhile... Au revoir Dee

That would neatly avoid the up=on / down=on issues ... unless the one push switch operates two lights on separate circuits... where, if you power cycle one circuit when the lights are on you end up with the lights operating in opposite senses. I.e. one light on, one off ... press the button and both lights change state.

Chatting to the wholesaler today about a related quinetic issue... standard switches in a simple on-off situation lose orientation after power loss. I.e. normal down=on ... if power is lost when switched on, on recovery it powers up in the off state, so now becomes up=on. Not a great problem, and invisible in multi switch situations. Except if you have one switch controlling several lights on separate circuits. Lose power on one circuit while the lights are on, and then you have one circuit switching in the opposite sense! Easy to reset, but might not impress the customers.

Don't think there'd be any fixings which would need to be more than 75mm. The bigger problem is accidentally over-deep drilling. An sds drill pushing an 8mm bit with gravity assistance can easily run way too deep. Depth stops or short bits may be useful.

Probably no problem... but also no great advantage (except perhaps rodent protection). Otherwise pvc cables are regularly used in contact with insulation materials, with the only exception being expanded polystyrene where a detrimental reaction may take place.

Well I hadn't heard that before... seems logical that the DNO has the final say. Although I'm surprised that a full 4kw export (assuming zero local load) has the power to push the local network out of spec, especially considering the G83 failsafes.

I guess what you could do is get the live services transferred to your services building, and once commissioned subsequently cancel the service. I don't think any provider actually comes and removes hardware (other than actual metering equipment) on cancellation of service. That would leave all the networks resources in place for potential future needs.

Given that the sub 4kw G83 installs only require notification after commissioning, how would the DNO deal with that situation? Tell you to disconnect an already functional system?

Don't think that's a real concern. Especially with led lighting. Even with incandescent lighting you're far more likely to hit volt drop issues before current rating becomes an issue.

Preferred option.... have a back box set in the wall right from the start. Allows for proper termination of the t&e to a short length of flex pre-connected to the lamp. If there isn't space for a full square box then the narrow architrave box or the continental round box will generally work. And redrilling the lamp to use the box screws can further neaten the installation. HTH Dee

Hmmm. I think one of the positives I'm hoping for in a self-build is decent doorway height. Given that I'm pretty much 2m tall, then 2m or lower doors tend towards the health hazard. 2.2 would be nice. I'll have to allow for this in the budget.

Looks like old GPO overhead pair. Maybe there to give something to detect, or early warning to excavator drivers....

Is it a viable option to batten it and fit timber plank? Or composite cladding panels? Or laser cut rusted steel art?

Had a look at their video... if you need a suspended floor then that looks like a good approach. Especially the plus version with the underbeam details. Wasn't listening... can you use a standard screed or do you need something stronger? But as ever, detail is key. A lot of precision and care needed to get the best performance.

Metal gutters on a sensible budget? Take a day trip to France and load up with diy store zinc gutter. A bit a knack to soldering it together, but looks excellent. The cost saving will more than cover the travel. Rolled edge zinc fascia is available too....

If they're just straight sections then some are available galvanized off-the-shelf...

Thanks. But early days yet. Just sufficient to know that it's possible.

Thanks. Yes, double doors hinged.... but I still may have to look elsewhere to get inward opening ones....

Keen to see the answer on this. Will be needing a couple of sets myself. That rationel link doesn't seem to have what Id think of as french windows/doors... ie a pair of hinged glazed doors....

So our build probably can't qualify as a passive house.... aspect and glazing area don't fit. But it has been suggested that the Passive house planning package might well aid us in speccing insulation, heating etc even so, rather than SAP. What have other folk used for designing a highly insulated airtight house? Thanks Dee

Yes. Assuming the wiring format and circuit protection are ok. I.e the two lower sockets are on a ring circuit protected at 32Amps or less or a radial circuit protected at 20 Amps or less. Your new socket becomes a spur to one of the lower sockets.

In older designs there'd be eaves and ridge vents, and that 25mm between insulation and sarking felt would be ventilated. But if that 25mm is within the sealed envelope then by all means fill it with insulation. But don't cut down too much on the overlaying insulation. The rafters need a good cover to reduce cold bridging...

Hmm. My suspicions exactly. Although I have found usa references to fitting blockwork over vertical conduit runs ( electrician working on site with block-layers)... I can't find much uk data.