Barney12

........a slow cooker! Or........ salads only

It depends a little on the level of transparency you want to achieve. Personally ive always found the Sikkens Cetol product excellent. If you want a more natural look then you can never go wrong with an Osmo oil.

Thanks guys. I removed that flushing cover yesterday and I didn't think it had any means to create a water tight seal. I obviously just didn't study it close enough. I'll look at it again later.

I think this has to be the answer. Like @JSHarris says I'll just permanently worry about it otherwise!

So, I’ve started plumbing in the various pre-install bosses for bath and shower valves. The Hansgrohe iBox is a well made piece of kit. But, surely there is a flaw with these systems? There is no way to pressure/leak test the connections without assembling the valves which if you follow the install instructions you do once everything is covered up (boarded and tiled). We’ve all had a compression joint that just needs that slight tighten to stop a tiny drip? So am I missing something or have folks just connected up the valves to test and then demounted them again ?

Ditto!

Each to their own but.......I’ve never understood the concept of a holiday that involves ‘cold’ and ‘exercise’. Nuts!

I buy Bosch Proffesional tools and food shop in Lidl.

Welcome! Down here in deepest darkest Devon girls are referred to as ‘maids’ and it’s most definitely a term of endearment and very much the accepted norm. In these parts you ignore a maid at your peril, it’s been known to lead to disembowelment They breed em tough down ere!

I've had a 240v Fein Multimaster for probably 10 years. It's a fantastic tool. Never missed a beat and its had some serious abuse. I've also got a battery Bosch multitool but although handy just doesn't have the 'welly' of the mains Fein.

This is probably a question for our resident Welsh Pipe Snuffler @Nickfromwales but all views welcome! Manifold based plumbing so no need for 'local' isolation of h/c tap feeds. Wall mounted basin. Lean, mean, clean and minimal. So what to do with the tap tail connections? There is no need for angled isolation valves or fancy chrome wall isolators (European stylee). I was thinking either: https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/fast-fix-kit-bracket-for-bar-shower-valves-efk001?campaign=googlebase&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3qfIpZq32QIVRDqBCh3iAgFDEAQYCCABEgIubvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds and simply tile round them and then screw the tap tail to it. Or: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-adaptors-15mm-x-2-pack/2665r and just lose the entire fitting the other side of the wall? The negative to that idea would be maintenance of the tap/connection. Thoughts?

Yep, and I think that's what I'm going to have to do. The runs of 50mm are fairly short and there is only a couple of solvent bends. Of course that does assume there is solvent on the other joints!! I guess I can try and rig some sort of pressure test up?

Actually digging it up just isn't going to be a safe/easy option. Just managed to find this (zoomed) image of the offending pipework. One corner of the sink waste goes across the UFH pipe. Its the pipe that was sat in the top of that grey boss that was un-bonded.

OK, thanks. Its going to be a BIG decision to dig the run from the 110mm to the sink up as its going to be close to UFH pipes.

So when running 40 or 50mm waste in concrete what should be the correct procedure? Push fit/compresion?

I had a quick look this evening and managed to pull the protruding (orange) pipe out. Was in a bit of a hurry so didn’t take pictures but it looks like it goes from orange, to a grey solvent boss and back to orange. The boss will be serving the 50mm white solvent weld pipe to the shower and sink. It doesn’t look like it’s very deep in the slab so digging it all out won’t be too much of a challenge but still a complete PIA!! Ill try try and take some photos tommorow.

Yep. They definitely used solvent for the 110 and the 50mm. P*ssed off now

I don't know about that point. The penetrations through the slab were the responsibility of MBC (albeit that they subbed the initial slab work out, who in turn subbed it out again) and they supplied the materials in that regard. They actually supplied 32mm and 40mm solvent weld fittings. I had them changed to 50mm. No, I don't think its too far down. Looks like I'll have to get the SDS drill out and do some gentle digging.

On a related note: One of my soil pipes (in the downstairs WC) which comes up through my slab has a wobble and will turn. They were solvent fittings so I can only assume no cement was used I'm now paranoid the other joints including 2 runs of 50mm waste to the sink and shower positions are buried under the slab with no solvent bond Feck!

So before very long I'm going to need to start tiling the three bathrooms. Strangely I LOVE tiling, its almost as therapeutic as wallpapering Mix of ceramic and porcelain. Biggest tile is 600mm porcelain. But I'm going to need to splash out on a new tile cutter. My existing hand cutter really has seen better days after years of service and my electric diamond cutter has a rusty top bed after having lent it to a friend who left it out in the rain (gee thanks m8!). I don't mind spending a bit more for something decent if I can recoup some of the costs via eBay when I finish. Is Rubi still the brand above all?

Another vote for CFS. Excellent company to deal with.

Darn impresive it looks to!

Ah, now I understand the 9kw. It’s to power the teleportation device Now if 7of9 was to appear then WHERE CAN I BUY ONE ??!!

Does it tan whilst drying?