TonyT

Must be the type of motor, may have a built in capacitor? Would have to get in there with my own meter to me sure.

430 volt toneart is normal, measure any live/line voltage to earth and you will get the same as you would measuring to neutral

Sounds like the set of capacitors for phase 3 is shot

What’s the S2 terminal?

The inside looks well built. I would safely discharge the capacitors and measure the rating, or just replace as just like humans they get old and tired!

I spend a bit of time (once a month at least) dealing with the police in relation to CCTV incidents in our work place car park. Doesn’t matter if it’s IP based or old ananlogue, it has to look at the right thing! don’t get fixated on the power requirement if the image isn’t useful! cat5/6 cabling can be used with cheaper analogue systems as well as IP based systems by using a balun at either end.

Best do some heat loss calculations now you have improved the building to get a better understanding of the energy requirement to heat your home.

That was indeed my thinking!?

Discuss with your building control, as I asked them that I wanted to keep my switches at 1350mm as per the rest if the house. They agreed, and it’s in writing so happy days, my existing sockets are fitted into the skirtings but went with the normal compliant height in the extension.

Do you have gas/oil central heating? If you were just hoping to swap out heating sources why not turn the boiler down so it’s producing 40 deg water flow through the radiators and see how you get on?

https://www.soudal.co.uk/pro/products/coatings?f[0]=categorie%3A1062 can also be used

Celotex type insulation has the same covering on both sides

Currently 16 week wait for Rationel windows on placement of order!

Has the builder sealed the insulation in the stud, as this is what makes the insulation work, either silicone/mastic/expanding foam and I put foil tape over mine as belt and braces. Ideally there should be a plastic sheet over the insulation, and behind the plasterboard to prevent warm moist air condensing on the rear of the insulation.

The pir needs a feed to it and it has a switch wire that then connects to the lights. You need to trace all the conductors from the pir

So can we ask what the problem is as it helps diagnose the problem. did it work and has stopped working? when the switch is in one position assume it’s on all the time as you are feeding the lights direct off the live/line. how are the pir and lights connected?

Wrap it in aerogel?

You aren’t dry lining, best to change terminology you are dot and dabbing and it’s common to use a complete line of adhesive. Use vapour check plasterboard

Go for a loft mounted central ducted unit and take ducts to rooms, less disruption. power goes to the out door unit and this then feeds the indoor unit, so this needs a route for pipework and cable. handy if there is a waste water connection in the loft for the condensate, maybe a strap on boss connector to the soil stack?

Adhesive frame- do you mean dot and dab?

how is the tank emptied? Is there lids on the top that you can access? cause maybe those large holes at the side also doubled up as the point where the hoses were pushed in to allow the liquid good to be emptied.

Wheelbarrow?

I have a cooker hood that can do 30l/s nothing else.

I prefer a fitting with a lamp that you can replace instead of having to change a fitting