TonyT

I would use a sika liquid mix it with cement to make a slurry and rub it in the entire concrete area with a skinhead to get a consistent finish its what the civics guys used to used for repairing concrete reservoirs and giving them a nice finish once the shutters were struck

https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjqGszvuf_wIVScftCh0KqAPnEAAYASAAEgKTOvD_BwE not sure what you are trying to achieve? maybe have a look at the link and get some idea of what’s on the market

No like a gas boiler flue,l with a cage at a certain height there to stop damage/ potential vandalism

Just the usual lack of care / poor workmanship

Some Houses on the other side of the road from me, discharge sewerage straight into the river, council not interested…. 4” waste pipe run down the hill/cliff edge😩

I would be happy to work to a design knowing I’m not responsible for that part, all I have to worry about is my workmanship. find new trades that think differently

Have a look at the technical standards for cavity closers and speak to your local building control. I would see more cold bridging if the cavity insulation didn’t extend into the roof void

I think you could find someone in the UK to design the system and then just hire in the trades.

It’s been fitted with round head screws. Clearly a decent install, as it’s not the gold screw countersink 1 screw does all brigade.

They are the same length as a block/brick is thick( without extension pieces which you do get) So for brick finished walls should be flush for render probably easier to protrude a few mm past the finish, as long as they are all consistent

Blow off pipe

Number 10 screws or 5’s be fine

Appreciate its nit what you want to hear, but best to remove desk and have an empty room to lay flooring otherwise it will look shit

I get that, but doing your on detective work into the materials fitted will give manufacturers info, and then let you know how to rectify the problem

What make is the stove pipe? then you can find out the manufacturer instructions and have 100% accurate info regarding sealing

Outside wall, furniture nearly against wall, lack of air movement if there are no external issues as toughbuttercup is pointing out.

Of course interior designers would now call it something arsey like stone instead of magnolia

Plus 1 for waiting that’s why years ago you were advised not to decorate and live with the contract magnolia for a year to let the building settle and dry out.

We build Swiss watches our tolerances are less than that….

To be fair we only use fire rated stuff now, saves using the yellow stuff and carrying different cans

Yes would need 30mA RCD protection if under 50mm. so make the wall thicker at this point 😁or as Temp says run Swa surface to forgo the RCD protection.

Fire rated foam

Not a breaker a fuse Dno fuse protects tails for the first 3 m anything else your own fuse is required.

Plus you can use the immersion on a night time tariff, maybe 3 times cheaper than day time electricity. Plus 1 for above good to give the heat pump a break with the cheap immersion

4 way upstand to help contain the dam😁 not that would have helped if they aren’t bright enough to realise the initial problem