TonyT

Yep

I would get a cheap night time tariff and run the hot water during this window.

What about in roof PV and reduce the amount of roofing material?

Clip the pipe, cable everything, laying on the ground is a bodge.

Hammer stapler all the time

You could buy a decorative end panel and cut that down you would get 2 manufacturers edges, and you could scribe to the floor

Can the boiler not be range rated to reduce the output, I can’t remember which boiler you had think it was a viesmann?

better to get it all done at once, the vibrations, noise, dust, cost for removal of material and hire of equipment, why pay multiple times?

Cut the plasterboard out first and see

Most domestic would be copper pipes between the internal and external unit, fully insulated with a condensate drain connection. Depending on make and model power is taken to either the outdoor/indoor unit and an isolator is installed then generally a 4 core cable between the units for providing power and communication between the 2 . many have remote control for temp change or you get wall mounted, modern units also can have an app for user control. the outdoor unit is generally pre charged with refrigerant gas, and depending on the distance between the 2 units more gas may be required.

I’m agreeing with Dave on this one, fine for a bit if DIY on your own property, but if you have paid contractors utilising it and there is an accident it’s not going to be good. Of course unless it’s erected by a competent person who signs it off and signs the scaff tag.

Hammer a metal pin through it to the level you want or hammer a metal pin in until it’s solid and mark the pin at the appropriate level..

Don’t see that being a problem either, done on sites all the time

That will be no problem, or you could add small stones to hold in place

Have a look at Nowty’s thread on the Camelot forum he’s diy fitted 2 of these and documented it really well

Terminating the earth conductor too!

Are you installing UFH?

Jesus, can no one use a finger anymore. switch on switch off

Get a plug cutter set to remove a hole in scrap wood, drill hole in top timber and screw into post, then pop in timber plug to hide screws, or angle brackets or toe nail screws underneath. lots of options

https://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-elliott-desk-lamp-gloss-slate-blue/p4285391?s_ppc=2dx92700075585127963_mixed_home_BAU&tmad=c&tmcampid=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6rnnko2s_wIVDpbVCh3WSQMxEAQYAiABEgJpD_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds problem solved

Go the DC route and forget about MCS

Sure there could be a block of wood on the inside of the door that hits the micro switch I found when I did mine 20 years ago it was best to have the parts to let the joiner see what was involved, how much travel the microswitch has etc im sure there are options in the Hafele catalogue but don’t know that one so well compared to the TLC one

Yep, I have a Dali/Lutron building at work, nothing but show, for Architects and Lighting consultants

Just needs wiring to the front of the carcass, the switch is held open closed by the weight of the door

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Domestic_Index/Kitchen_Lighting/Switches_Miniture/index.html