Roundtuit

How does that sit with Building Regs? Assuming you haven't put trickle vents in windows and don't want uncontrolled airflow through vents, is leaving out the mvhr an option?

Looks like a Luxair Anzi extractor without enough space to fit it flush, so trimmed with architrave.

I had the chain on my site gates cropped in the early stages of our build - nothing stolen, but it made me aware of how vulnerable we were to passing scrotes with bolt croppers. My first reaction was to replace it with a f.o.b chain, but changed my mind when I realised that the next easiest way in is through the 2mm heras fence wire. Better to lose 2 quids worth of chain....

What's the risk you're trying to mitigate? I'd suggest that you need to be properly secure before you do much in the way of first fixing, so if you hold off on that, there's probably not much appeal for thieves if you weigh up the re-sale value to risk...

Fridge every time, if you've got the space. Dropping the temperature slows the respiration rate, so it will keep better, longer. Just be careful with stuff like courgettes and aubergines that are prone to chill damage.

I've got a buildbase account (and a legacy travis Perkins account as it happens) and cross check prices for anything big. Generally, buildbase is cheaper than I can find anywhere else, so I guess it depends on your local branch.

Ah - good plan. I ask as I got a bit caught out with this. I didn't fully anticipate that the weight needed to go on the roof to 'settle' the frame before the brick/block outer skin could go up, and I'd lined the brickies up before the roofers. Windows went in after, but then they do span the cavity.

This might be a dumb question, but where abouts does getting the roof on sit in your schedule?

Congratulations and good effort!

Can you full-fill the cavity? I thought the cavity was necessary for a timber frame with a masonry outer skin?

Except perhaps decrement delay? I'd agree, my brick skin is a (very...) expensive rain screen, but I expect it to contribute to the temperature stability inside. Yes, you can achieve the same thing with alternative insulation types, but then you're back to increasing wall thickness again are you not?

The ties are generally nailed to the osb that clads the frame, and bedded into the mortar joints of the outer masonry skin. Not sure how how effectively you could do it differently.

Yes, unfortunately - bullet bitten and thermabate delivered... The frame erectors battened around the outside of the windows onto the frame as a closer/fire break, but I took them all off before the brick skin went up, as I want a better solution from a cold-bridge point of view. I did consider a combination of using the 'fire stop sausage' that Terry describes, combined with PIR insulation or timber or something, but decided that by the time I'd messed about with that and created something which may or may not be compliant, I might as well get the Thermabate (ended up a £3.75/m delivered if anyone wants a benchmark).

I moved email from four Outlook (express) accounts on an old pc, including folders and sub-folders, to Thuderbird on a new pc earlier this year with no problems. As per JSH, I can't quite remember what I had to do, but I can tell you it was all done by following instructions found online, with no prior knowledge and certainly no aptitude! You'll be fine...

Hi. I'm about to start fitting fire-rated cavity closers (Kingspan Thermabate) around window and door openings - 50'ish mm cavity between timber frame and brick outer skin. They have a flange which will nail to the frame to hold them in place, and I was planning to foam them in with Soudafoam to seal the gaps. The question is, is a B2 fire rated foam OK for this job, or does it need to be B1? cheers

Hmm. Following my request for BC to confirm in writing that taking an air feed from the void is OK, I've just had a call from someone different now recommending that the air feed is ducted in from an external wall after all. I can run a duct in the insulation layer on top of the block and beam OK, but this will bring the vent out in a lower position than the air bricks (telescopic vents) for the floor void. Any suggestions please?

Yep, I did that, but more for convenience than cost saving. When I lost confidence and the error became apparent, I 'dismissed' the conveyancer and got a proper local solicitor. The transaction was put back on track OK, but I reckon I'd be in a better position if I'd done that in the first place...

I think I'm about to have exactly the same issue. The installer says the air feed has to be from an external vent, but I checked with Building Control today and they're happy with taking air from the ventilated void under the block and beam floor as per my original plan. I'll get it writing from BC, and then have another chat with the installer and see where we get to...

Ah, thanks. Yes, battens will run vertically. I didn't realise it was acceptable to run wiring horizontally, but it is being done by a proper sparky so I'll check with them.

Thanks guys. Dave - not sure I understand the pre-drilled studs tip; is that for if the studs are fixed horizontally rather than vertically?

I'm about to start fitting an additional 40mm celotex layer on the inside of our timber frame. The current plan is to fix with 25mm battens over the top into the frame studs, then to board onto the battens to leave a service cavity. I'm guessing that if the professionals did this, it would be a nail gun job, but as I don't have one, any problems with fixing with 100mm screws? Also, this will mean screwing through the airtightness membrane; I'm assuming the compression will avoid leakiness?

As a Beverley lad, born and bred, I've enjoyed many a night out in Hull (and Scunthorpe)! Wouldn't go there sober mind...?

Just stood the site portaloo back on it's feet. It had been blown forwards with its weight on the door, so it would have proper spoilt someone's day if they'd been dropping the kids off at the pool at the time. Thankfully it was dark, so I'm spared the 'fall-out' 'til the morning...

In the end, I went for a supply and fix job with a roofing contractor tied in with my pv installation so I lost visibility of the slate price. I expect they can buy better than me doing a one-off job though. I specified the slate however, after seeing about a dozen different samples from builders merchants and independent slate suppliers, so I reckon they were around the £1 mark for 500x250mm (top end of) average blue/black Spanish slate.

Yes - mcs registered, from Manor Solar based near Peterborough. As the roof is being done by their sister company, it may be that there has been some off-setting of costs that isn't fully visible, but the total cost of the job isn't a million miles out. To be honest, it hasn't all been plain sailing (pm if you want details), but I can't fault the quality of the roof installation ( and I've crawled all over it!)