SimonD

Yes, pretty much, but there are also other benefits. Having an architect talk to suppliers and manufacturers means you get an answer. E.g we have an unusual 1st floor design with 2 sections of curved roof. We could get quotations to decide on the structure - e.g. steel frame/glulam frame/hybrid steel frame plus glulam - via architect whereas these companies simply wouldn't talk to us as self-builders. This may be the same with an AT, I don't know but there does seem to be a difference with companies when dealing with an architecture practice.

I think there is some confusion here about what glues are what. The D4 category is simply a durability category for interior areas exposed to frequent wetting, or external use. What you need is a polyurethane glue that expands within the joints of the boards as well as at the joist board connection. The D4 everbuild glue linked to doesn't do that. @nod suggested the Caberfix. You can also use the Soudal 30min or 5min PU wood glue, which also gently expands. example PU wood glues: https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/soudal-trade-30min-d4-pu-wood-adhesive-290ml-clear-737362?vat=1&shoppingxp=true&msclkid=591dab1002551015fd7acaade429e924&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping > Top Products&utm_term=4580909046907901&utm_content=Top Products https://www.toolstation.com/30-minute-polyurethane-wood-glue/p52489

We initially employed an Architectural Technologist who presented a number of design suggestions, none of them worked for us as they were very unimaginative. None of the ideas would provide us with the functional family space that also gave us a design that inspired us as a place we wanted to be in and spend the money developing. Because we were starting off with a bungalow, all the AT did was set in his mind we needed a loft extension. We live in an area where the planners are very particular because of its world heritage status and Georgian architecture and this AT was just too worried about the planners. We sacked the AT after a very frustrating 6 months of messing around with ideas only to meet with an architect who within a week sent a scanned sketch of his proposed design that would transform the house in exactly the way we wanted, giving us a full two storey house with loads of space. Then we discussed the planners and he listed all the design elements he would add to the planning application that would distract the planners enough to ask for changes to the application that wouldn't impact our designs very much, if at all. And because he understood the nature of the local architecture, he was able to talk with the planners to explain how our design incorporated influences from the historical nature of the city in such a way as to complement existing architecture. Our application did go to planning committee but he presented at that committee and the application flew through. From a design perspective, our architect got it spot on and he suggested ways in which we could use the landscape to enhance the house. We are on a fairly steep slope and he designed the house upside down so that we have a bridge going from the living area straight to the level of back garden, for example. The design also fully takes advantage of the views we have over the valley, which the AT never even considered. So the architect considered the context of the design. One very interesting thing I noticed recently was that the asymmetrical design of the house means that the windows follow the shape of the landscapoe they're looking out on - which makes the space much better to be in. Design wise, I wouldn't hesitate to use an architect again. From a technical detailing perspective, however, he was incredibly frustrating, but if you use an architectural practice, you should be able to get someone onto the detailing.

It must be difficult being a contractor in these situations as you're at the front end. What helps even less is that official figures seem to be contradictory. ONS Construction Output figures suggest annual price inflation up to September of just 5.5% for all construction work, 7.8% if you just look at new build. Then there are figures that show forecast contractor tender and price inflation of just 2.7% for the next year! Somebody clearly hasn't left their office in a while. Clearly something is going to come out in the wash as some point soon, probably about 3 months before the government finds out about it.

+ 1 @ToughButterCup's suggestion. If there is one thing I've learned about architects over the last few years is that they do tend to learn an eye for design. What I mean by that is proportions and relations between elements of a building which often subtle are nevertheless important in the end result. Many, although not all, will also have a good sense of how space functions and thus how to take that into consideration in the design too. I grew to despise my architect, and thus the rest of the field, at one point in the project, but I now have to say that many of the things he drew into our plans, as well as his suggestions have come to pass as absolutely spot on - I merely didn't understand, or couldn't see/imagine what he was on about at the time. One specific example is that I had another architect visit to look at our build who remarked that the building hasn't closed in as we've completed the fabric. She said most buildings feel much smaller once you close it up, but our doesn't somehow. Similarly, as we've added all our partition walls, the space actually feels much bigger that when it was open so we've got an additional sense of space. All the room proportions work perfectly for what they need to do - this is entirely of our architects design. Also, don't close down your decisions right now in terms of fit out. E.g. luxury vinyl tiles are not necessarily cheap from high end suppliers like Harvey Maria - and with flooring, cheap usually means cheap - but you might find that as you move through the build and see the construction in reality, you'll want to deviate from those decisions. A decent architect may be able to guide you better at the outset.

I think as @epsilonGreedy and @Gus Potter have said, don't count your chickens yet. I'm building on clay and we decided not to go for complete new build but use a large proportion of the existing bungalow for several reasons - time will tell whether this was a mistake financially. The biggest pain has been dealing with existing structure that isn't square, true or plumb, so I've been doing a lot of swearing. Our bungalow was built in the late 1920s and the existing foundations are in some cases as little as 150mm deep and about 450mm wide in some parts they are as deep as 1m. We've added a complete story plus infill extension and the total weight of the new build is less than that of the original roof that held concrete tiles. Structural engineer dealt with some point loads using pad foundations where necessary. I suggest you first look at designing what you want and then consider which way is best to achive that, extending existing or knock down and rebuild.

Also requires free air ventilation within the room and some of them have a maximum daily duty cycle due to products of combustion and catalytic converter. If you must go down the gas fire route, then possibly consider a balanced flue freestanding fire, which you can get.

I have to say I concur with you, @saveasteading and @Gordo that it's most likely external moisture ingress and that microcracks may be playing a role. If your render is going through thermal shock while damp then it's got to be possible that the freeze-thaw expansion and contraction causes microcracks which let in more moisture over time. Having looked at the technical manual from my wood fibre manufacture, Schneider, I also suspect that movement in the timber frame plays a role here. Schneider wood states that their silicon resin plaster, similar to Baumit's sillikonTop, only has ETICS approval when the boards are fitted onto a masonry substrate. The alternative top coat is a mineral final render which appears to be fine on timber frame. They also recommend the application of a final levelling coat of silicon paint for extra weather protection on top of the silicon resin, or as the final coat on the mineral render final coat. This is quite different to the buildup used by Pavatex/Baumit and the now defunct NBT which is on your wall. It may be that, as already suggested, trying a final layer of protective silicon paint might help, but obviously damage has already been done.

I would build a shelf unit that hangs on french cleats fixed to the metal studs using Tek screws. French cleats are brilliant for hanging cabinets and shelves on stud walls.

Lime Green has now developed a pure lime render for Woodfibre. One of Weber's products is also suitable for Woodfibre but with the caveat that Weber uses local aggregate so mixes do vary slightly depending on region. I suspect your best long term solution may be to look at adding a rainscreen so battening, cavity, render board, render. Your problems are very similar to those experienced in Norway, Finland and west coast of Sweden with premature ETICS failures.

I think that may very well be the case if your last open heat emitter can't radiate sufficient heat and your boiler can't modulate down far enough. Anscillary to this discussion I think a major problem lies in how we combine heating and hot water. For example, looking at gas boilers for my current build (we've run out of budget for Air to Water HP right now), if I'm to size output for reasonably fast DHW recharge, then the boiler struggles to modulate down its CH output low enough for normal house heat demand. For example, I have a calculated load of 5.8kW calculated at the standard -3/21 with half the house at -3/18. A Baxi 18 or 24kW system boiler can only modulate down to 4.9kW at 50/30 or 4.5 at 80/60. It's better with an Ideal Vogue as I could go 15kW boiler modulating down to 3.0kW. But for some of the year, it's likely going to be cycling more often than I'd like. At the moment, I'm sorely tempted to look at separating the CH and DHW systems in some way. E.g. a gas water heater and air-to-air heatpump, but that may have to wait a few years until budget allows.

I saw that video too and like the Skillbuilder heatpump rant, I skipped most of it. But this one did contain more sense ? Having reflected on the video, I came to the conclusion that it probably just points to correct design of the system at the outset as the main problem occurs if you design the heat emitters for uniform output throughout the house. My vague recollection is that the CIBSE standard heat loss method recommends different temperatures in different rooms (e.g. bathroom and kitchen, although it doesn't account for heat loss/gain between internal spaces. I'm sure the problems they highlight can be overcome by modifying the heatloss calcs and heat emitters accordingly and also if necessary include a buffer within the heatpump circuit to reduce cycling?

Before you go too far on the zoning, it might be worth considering what these guys have to say about it although it obviously doesn't work like they say for all situations.

Good to hear some experience. I've not done the install yet, we've been playing with samples to decide on the colour, a task in itself! I've also been talking to suppliers re recommended substrates and like with everything there seems to be rather differing opinions. One supplier of a major Spanish microcement manufacturer has said I can simply use plasterboard with skim as the microcement is waterproof, but I have to say I'm a bit wary of that in a shower enclosure. I'm going to use Knauf Exterior Aquapanel as the substrate instead. The buildup has also been an interesting task in research as different makes have slightly different approaches. Some do use 2-part resin mixed coats and then also waterproof coating, some use one-part base and middle coat with a couple of layers of waterproof coating with different hardeners. Some suggest a reinforcing mesh within the shower walls, some don't. I need a little time to figure this out and make a decision that isn't self-builder overkill yet remains robust. Since there hasn't been any other input, I'll assume it's not got much traction here and will report back once I've taken the plunge, hopefully before Xmas if I'm lucky.

There's always living in hope ?

I think if you speak to 1000 chippies you'll get 1000 different ways to do it! Not always helpful. The full head stainless nails I linked to above with a first fix nail gun work a treat. It's always worth trying nails on some off cuts before final decision. If you do go for the stainless as per the link, make sure you phone them to order as that way you'll likely get a reasonable discount too!

I few little tips: beware the water gauges they sell with cheap tubing as over long lengths, the tube will deform, especially when in the sun, and screw up your measurements - I know coz I've been there and freeked out when I found one corner of the house to be nearly 50mm higher than my datum. Then I change the tube to clear braided airline tubing and found the actual different was 3mm. The other is to fashion up a water tank that permanently sits at your datum point and feeds the water gauge. I threw away the one I bought and made my own - it was more robust, accurate and usable as I could make the measuring gauge as long/high as I wanted which was useful.

Interestingly the timber decking and cladding association recommends using face fix screws for species like larch and pre-drilling holes - https://www.tdca.org.uk/timber-cladding/cladding-fixings/ If you do choose to nail with a gun, you can get the 34 degree full round head stainless nails by Beck fasteners here: https://www.nailers.co.uk/product/fastenings/nails/34-framing-nails/34-stainless-steel-framing-nails/ They work a treat. Also your chippy should be able to get a tip for his gun - they're usually only a few quid!

Yeah, looks just like that.

https://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/lifestyle/homes-and-gardens/this-sensational-self-build-house-for-sale-near-saltburn-is-a-1960s-time-capsule-with-orange-shagpile-and-avocado-bathroom-3459734?utm_source=pocket-newtab-global-en-GB

What you said, quoting me, was: Perhaps that was a misunderstanding then? And of course, none of what I said was conspiracy theory either..

Yes, that sounds like the same one. Professor of Physics at the University of California and author of Do the math blog

Haha, yes indeed! ?

Hmm, interesting. No, I've not conflated anything in what I've said. As far as I'm aware there's only one post denying climate change as mere weather. You've clearly claimed my posts are to do with denial yet they're all within the second. I also note that I'm pretty much the only one who has supported their statements with reference to papers and books, all from respectabe sources. It's pretty naive to think that for a discussion to be of value it has to contain a proposed alternative direction of travel. This always starts with a development of awareness, which is patently missing within the thread. The direction of travel needs to be studied and investigated by a large community of people with interdisciplinary knowledge, experience and resources. As I suggested before, take a look at some of the sensible scientific publications, like the book by Tom Murphy, and that will demonstrate that with the knowledge and herd mentality currently in play, what we do about it is an immensely complicated and difficult challenge which will undoudtedly require several tangental but interrelated directions to emerge. First has to come a wider development of awareness. That would be my suggested alternative direction right now.

You're right, it gets taken too far which is highly unpleasant and can be upsetting (well, I know I can find it upsetting sometimes when I get flamed). As I also seem to be assumed to have such a wicked undiclosed agenda, be science illiterate, and willing to cast away the future of the planet, I do wonder why I spent years designing, and then several years building, with my own two hands, a low energy house that uses a huge amount of waste, recycled, and renewable materials so that now, even after fitting 3g windows and a metal roof, my house is still calculated as having a negative carbon footprint. I've also gone to great lengths to minimise waste of building materials in the whole process. Perhaps I could get a badge or lollipop for that at least, since I am also a child apparently ?? I think that is the key point, there's a broad spectrum, and probably always will be. We need to get beyond the binary somehow.