Oz07

When you get good you can tip the mixer with one foot on the barrow handle closest to you. If the mixer has to be set up in a place with crap ground infront of it. Was taught by an old school person to have barrow facing way your taking it when loading. Amount of lads u see fill a barrow then have to turn it round full.

Yeh I thought that although would probably be laid from outside overhand the blues for this one block plus one brick course. Then insu and slab. Like you say probably be easier just to lay on a wide dpc and wrap around. No benefit really was just throwing the idea out there

What are the pros/cons of this alternative DPM detail. I thought as a positive it would keep the internal cavity perimeter blocks dry below DPC. A 'con' is any settlement in the sublease and DPM would be likely to tear. Would this not happen with the usual method though also?

Isn't it crazy that those angles hangers can take all the thrust out of the rafters. I don't believe what I'm seeing ha

Sorry have flicked thru thread but shouldn't rebar have cover all around rather than hammer into earth. Not to say I'd be worried seems OTT as said

Deffo would be using a surveyor there. Bet the digging is fun all those interconnecting trenches! My level has a 90 deg function so simple layouts quite easy

Side fixing in normal hangers doing same job

Not grazing land lol

Or a well compacted sub base and structural concrete slab top? Comfortably get 150mm insu then. To answer your question OP you might overpay for 120mm sheets. I'd price up 100mm and 25mm (if can lose 5mm) as quite common sizes. Otherwise if 120mm in one board same price then just go with that

Let us pick your brain. Whats an average price per acre big developers are paying for land

As an extra note I like to use a 9" dpc under beams, fold it back-up and then fold floor dpm down onto it and tape. Next course of blocks laid on top of dpm

I have makita one and it's got too much bass

As a note most commercial contracting builders pay absolutely no attention to brand of pir round here only thickness. It's whatever's cheapest and avail at the time

I wore a mask and crossed my fingers. By no means the best way to attack but I just got it done. If it's you it's at your own risk. Asking subbies to do for you bit different you bear a bit of responsibility then

I would include site prep and surveys needed and all services. I would discount solicitors fee's with regards to buying the plot and count this in the cost of the land. Potentially would group any planning/architect costs with this also. I count all other costs associated with building including fuel. At the end of the day you can see a Purchase price Cost to gain planning Cost to demo/strip/prep and build

As declan says I had to provide costings for build. I presume they just check it to some m2 rate (contentious subject atm) and see it's within parameters. Also I was advised I would be best to say I would be living with family while building and not carrying on renting therefore increasing affordability. Mortgage fraud anyone?!

Did something exact same recently. Lifted tiles, disposed of down tip. Used a cold emulsion based dpm ontop of this residue then arditex NA on top to seal/ level the floor.

Not airated no

Nice warm welcome there @ProDave!

As above always get a visit morning of first day digging. If you strip the whole site have the conversation with bco early doors on phone see what he wants. I've left the top layer of soil in that pic as it's not going to be paved or anything. Always easier working if you strip the lot off.

How many extra piles for concrete beams? Bet your price per pile is less when machine already mobilized on site?

Alternatively do as the pros do and I was taught about 20 years ago. Always tap the back plate of the latch with your hammer. This means as the door shuts and the latch extends into the hole it tightens the door into the frame.

Doubt 2.30 is labour and materials. Compo, blocks, labour got to be more than that. @AnonymousBosch does your book clarify? It's ok having a book that tells you what it should cost but it's a sellers market at the minute (labour).

Having previously mortar filled the gap between water mdpe pipe and duct I now understand cement rots mdpe. Originally a water inspector told me to do that but must of been wrong eh. So what's best plan of attack foam and wire will? Any foam? Insulation instead of foam? Thinking for other things like drains. Any wire wool? Or non ferrous?

Bco's like beam and block because it's simple to understand. Everything is bearing on the walls which sit on the foundation. Some are not open minded enough to see the benefits of other methods