Oz07

They always charge more for slip couplers than normal. It's a rip off

Don't think you should be relying on grout regardless.

Went halfs with my mate on on of those kind of lifters recently. Don't you find them flimsy? Might just be the way he put it together. I've defintley used better. What gun you using for the screws I got one of the dewalt ones good for the money.

I'd try grano rather than conc. Like a benching mix

@nod didn't have a basement like you. Just screw up into the blocks if you can't use any proprietary fixing strap/band

No way will a surveyor ever notice 30mm. 300 maybe. Anyway I'm sure there's an indemnity for such situations

Had the exact same problem on a job. Gable fronted dormer bungalow. I caught it as I was putting the trimmer in for to floor joists thinking how the hell are these stairs going to work with that valley coming down architects had drawn it too far forward. I pushed the trimmer back 3 or4 ft luckily it didn't knacker the clients layout

Is it already dry overhead?

Presumably you will be boxing in? Can't you just acoustically insulate around outside of pipe within the boxing

I think op is asking in the real world what's likelihood of these systems failing? Could some contaminated ground or a spillage cause damage to the eps? Is rodent damage a genuine concern once the building is finished? Can rats burrow? Are they likely to burrow and chew through eps? All valid questions id have thought I'll leave it to others with the system to answer as I don't know

Sure the one I worked on went in before Windows and doors.

Really?!

That gypsum based stuff which gets done at 50mm is Bombproof. Have worked ontop of it before

Also if blockwork 300mm works guage. Just a thought

Sounds good throw some pics up or start a blog if you get time

15mm on ceilings in current place but thats for other reasons than sound

I'm sure MR boards aren't supposed to take a skim. I've never used anything other than acoustic or wallboard (skimmed) in a bathroom and never had any issues with sagging or the board breaking down before. Happy to be told i'm wrong but suspect its for tape and filled jobs where board choice is more critical

What finish are you having skim? I didn't think MR boards were designed to be skimmed over? If you read the MI's @nod ?

I think you would keep on same raft to simplify. The eps is probably cheap I'd guess it's the prep and the technical which costs. Maybe a break in the conc of some kind where it joins house

Might be a pumpable mix but be suprised if that price includes pump?

Interest collection of posts linked above cheers

No you have a stop tap externally where the meter is too

Will you create a service cavity inside? What's your wall build up.

They've changed recently. Will now accept an end cap both inside and outside. Saves messing about with plumbing fittings if you're not confident like me.

Reject it