Oz07

If say you get about 87.5 kg in a drum of dry materials. Just basing a 6:1 mix filling the drum. So around 8/9/10 for .4m3 based on weight Yes I would assume 130l is horizontal complete volume

I've seen worktop fitters butcher the back of units once or twice. Good choice

How come these charges seem to be applied differently by different authorities? In what other industry does the government get to effectively use a windfall tax? Serious question they might exist. Because house prices are high everyone wants a piece of the cake

No he does that for free @AnonymousBosch but the gap at top of hinge to hang coat off is extra!

Would think setting the depth will be a nightmare

Not sure this is the right tool for the job. Deffo don't think it would be one of the jobs I'd be thinking I'll buy a nail gun for that

I must be slow as f,,,k and I've been making a living at it! I wouldn't aim for any more than 4-5 oak doors in a day inc furniture or around 8 just swinging. I think 8 per day inc furniture and they could be a bit rough @nod Probably agree on the liners. Maybe a touch longer. I'd make em all up first, stop have a morning cuppa, then start fitting. In answer to op question maybe 8 liners fitted and all your window boards cut ready to fix inc ends routered if out of sheet material

Latest place has a 25mm PIR upstand all around perimeter of slab finishing flush at FFL. I think the slab is specced at around .15 U value so you know what i'm working with. At the minute my french doors are set to sit ontop of DPC brickwork with around 50mm sticking up. 30mm cill blues 20mm ally threshold. Door frame set back 30mm into cavity so effectively bridging this PIR at floor level. I am considering ripping out 1 course of brickwork below french doors and having them made 75mm higher. I can then use a 30mm cill and bigger section (70mm ish) PVC bottom rail. I think using the PVC bottom rail gives better performance as not relying on the draught seal under the doors, it's against the face as the rebate is all around. Only snag is I will be ripping out the 25mm PIR behind the door to achieve the setback. The edge of the slab will be upto the PVC cill. In practice would this scenario be any worse than the pvc cill bridging over the PIR as per original way? I suspect not but looking for advice. Don't need any calls done just your opinions please. Obviously I prefer option 2 because it gives be that better draught seal performance and a lower profile cill as it is effectively set 75mm down. Cheers

Had a quote, didn't use them. Sorry couldn't help more!

are the internal load bearing walls then built off these then sandwiching insulation? Does it eliminate the cold bridge?

Are these sliding doors for wardrobes or rooms. Its my understanding if wardrobes not shown on plan then you could be on a sticky wicket with VAT reclaim although would probably get overlooked.

Is it an online order or local what are u looking for a purchase subject to vat then u claim it back? Does this supplier literally knock 15% off when dealing with any incorporated company?

I've never had a mouse in the loft to my knowledge, how would you know? I've never seen any signs although i'm sure they can climb walls - especially built by the brickies I use. I'm going for the option sensus recommends on current place. Built it then deal with if it becomes a problem. Got fascia vents all around on a hipped roof, so the whole perimeter, vented ridge and a good area of roof south facing with no shading. Fingers crossed!

thermal mass, you should charge extra for that

Ive seen them painted too think it's most sensible option

I built a standard gabled end 2 storey in 2012 with eaves vents front and back but without dry or vented ridge. Loft had condensation. Loft suffered a bit of condensation so I put 3 tile vents in at high level and it cured it. Obviously I'm not suggesting this would work in every case but my layman's brain did assume more vents was always better. How depressing that houses seem to be getting far too technical with one problem solved creates another. Shame there isn't any quick dirty rules of thumb but guessing it's all location specific. Stick around @Sensus. I've never understood why this forum can't have a lounge like others where topics can be discussed. I thought the whole point of not advertising was nobody to upset what was discussed here. Those threads getting closed down the other day fair enough had no self build in them but felt a bit like Gestapo shutting them down.

I see. I have heard stories myself. Is it generally true that more ventilation is better than less though?

Good point

What's the advantage of pir detector in bathrooms if your light is switched. Can't these units be linked to the light switch to boost when on?

Why does more ventilation make worse sometimes @Sensus ? Any rules of thumb?

Seen full lead tray on some dummy chimneys on a job last year. Couldn't work out why they didn't use dpc myself. These still leaked through brickwork last winter anyway. Builder sealed with water seal and fixed problem

As @Judy C says above I've used that exception before. You would have to set up a company to invoice yourself though

Think it's more direct transmission ie studs. Hence why resilient bars on ceilings to decouple is so good

I don't think there's any quick and dirty rules of thumb so many variables. Area you're insulating, volume your heating, heating source etc etc Jeremy did a spread sheet I've had a play with but still then you have to start working out energy needed it's like black magic to me. What size is your batten then 45 or could you swap down to 25mm lath? Do you think the price difference is more pronounced due to uncommon our size? Perhaps price based on 75 or maybe even 100