Oz07

Didnt cost you owt though!

Probably okay at that. If dry lined then 25mm is gone minimum to that, then 20mm to skirting. That leaves 30mm overhanging joist. Are you really going to be able to apply point loads to 30mm and make a floor board deflect?

Anyone who studs with screws when nails are readily available is an idiot. End of.

You'd be better off in a consumer rights or diy type forum. I'm sure someone will come along and help but it's quite a long winded post. Sorry to be blunt.

If your not beam filling the blockwork or fixing trusses on that spine wall surely the noggins are doing a job. I'd bring them maybe an inch or so away from the wall can double up as plasterboard perimeter nogs then.

Align with bottom.

With respect this is a self build forum.

Cheapest in local stock. Never even looked at brand myself

Me too. Integrated dishwashers are the devil's work. Utilitarian utilities are where it's at

Surely the fixing at top and bottom of these concealed metal strings is more important than any fixings inbetween?! If those two points are rock solid and it can't twist over then where's it going? Obvs would need someone qualified to give you fixing spec.

Or for the poor man's test like mine if you live in an area where pressure is crap (technical plumbing term) and you're waiting ages for a bucket to fill at tap just spend the extra 200 or so to upgrade to 32mm and be satisfied you've done all you could have...

Samsung has 5 year warranty

Shouldn't people check local pressure before deciding?

someone here has done it im sure..search perhaps but might be hard

Looks foreign to me

also bonus points for anyone who can see the last common rafters running out on that picture. The extension is built half a brick longer on one wall than the other. I set out off the front wall. Did realise when marking wall plate but kept with set out off front wall incase it effected bond of tiles when setting out from gable. Complete idiots they are. Cant wait till they fit the garage door and the customer realises...

I used scrap 8x2 off the cut rafters for the infill. Because the valley was built off a lay Board I set the infill 2 or 3 " out from the centre of the valley. I didn't like the gaping hole in the middle so got a thin sheet of ply and ripped it down to smooth this out. GRP valley sits on ply, lath nails into 8x2 Some use thin ply for the GRP with 2x2 noggins out outside for lath fixings

The ally does look good but it's impossible to justify the price if you've got an eye on selling in future unless it's a super premium home. Think @Russell griffiths used something posh?

When you sell. Can define all rights, boundaries, obligations etc etc then.

Yep @Nickfromwales that's why I went 22mm copper over to manifolds then 15 or 10 from there. The garden tap is straight after stop cock and is fierce compared to my old place or neighbours. Around 20l per min

Bigger pipe more flow rate not more pressure

Always put them in. Worst job in the game. Boring. Ignore dormer had to alter size after it was built to the drawing.

Fyi I think my pressure is somewhere around 1.5/2 bar. Neighbours in old 30s place with that 3/8 supply literally cannot run a tap upstairs if downstairs was running

I put 32mm in mine as pressure round here not so good. Only had 25mm previously in old house different area. Connection price is not much dearer at all. There was someone here if I remember correctly that had a 32mm connection and the water co. Fitted the wrong box. They got a hefty discount from memory like upwards of 75%. It's almost worth having the 32 connection just in hope that they use the wrong box, then you get massive discount!

Yes, has been good to me but only coming up to a year old. Seems you can end up with a dud quite often but can return as unfit for purpose. Few cons with it too but put a few thousand through it in that icy weather week before last and didn't miss a beat.