Oz07

They don't my auntie is the neighbour.

I was 1.19 ap50 whatever that means but happy enough with that. Anything below 3 apparently mvhr pays for itself not sure I believe that though.

Sorry @Gav_P thought you meant the reverse. It's next to my heating manifold with 65c temp or something like that. I suspect the heat warped the rubber. I think if my new one fails he will have to put some disclaimer in the instructions about placing near heat sources.

Also @Gav_P No need to encourage price increases!

Not sure. Quite a bit of detritus in there from plumber soldering above. One day I went to bed and that whole half of the house stunk of drains. I tipped a touch of water in there regularly till replaced and it made a seal good enough to stop odour. He took it away to examine. Helpful guy really

Depends how good it is. We have a yard here can literally get super clean like 35-70mm crushed concrete. I don't think you'd be able to tarmac straight ontop probably need a 2-4" layer of smaller clean stone but you'd do that when the build is finished. I wouldn't worry too much about it clogging up to the point of non permeable. A type1 would do but not a product without fines. It's not going to be any less permable than the ground below any way.

Some decent 6f2 or clean 50mm is what you want can be left down then. Geotextile too non woven.

Is it not the wrong flashing kits been used? Different kits for different tile profiles

Does anyone here use Hotun for a trapped tundish discharge? I had one fail on me recently the owner/inventor cam round, replaced and left me with a spare. Was good service but doesn't give too much faith when 6 months old

Where will you put manifolds if you have in the same cupboard/area?

More than you think for all the pipes above it

So pretty much the worst case then. I can't understand why some get away without

Hi @Timedout what do you think to the photos in the link I posted. They haven't had steps removed but don't look to comply to me. I understand there are a lot of properties signed off which don't meet regs but seems strange to me with a national builder and NHBC sign off

@PeterW Getting specific are you saying height to underside reveal (knowing build up can be quite thick)? height to bottom rail of roof window? height to the bottom of opening where it clears the roof?

Seems a bit of a weak spot in the regs did you go through photos in that link no way do they comply.

my filter light seems to come on every 4 months. Cant think of any other reason access is needed. The filter light comes up on control panel so wouldn't have to access machine to check

To be fair i worked on a 1.5 storey new build a couple of years ago and that 1st floor bedroom didn't have MOE compliant windows either and was signed off.

Without wasting hours googling could someone please point me to the area of the regs which deals with MOE and the 1st floor of barn conversions please? I see many places where they simply have roof windows and to me they don't look big enough or at the right height for MOE. The attached link is an example of a finished one. It's in the same block that a family member live and was covered by a large regional builder so guessing everything would of been designed to comply. https://www.zoopla.co.uk/property/3-scraptoft-hall/church-hill/scraptoft/leicester/le7-9tw/31594433/

I'm sure the building won't collapse if you do it. Honestly this is one of those over worrying moments ask @ToughButterCup

Nail a bit of 2x2 to top chord, leave a 25mm gap all around if you like. Job done. They've said what they have to say. It reality we know it will be fine.

Try snapping a nail and try snapping a screw. Think the boffins call it shear or tension.

Reading Churchill my early life atm. He says something like misfortune is a good thing. It teaches you lessons that if things went well you would not of learned. I always get a spec of lintel manufacturers nowadays and make sure that the always thorough and detail minded brick layers follow these lintel schedules.

Mdpe joints are the devil's work. I had an elbow on a stand pipe, diverted to a straight joint when the stand pipe was changed to a house feed. The plumber did the connection for me and we testes befire backfill. The connection was fine 2016-2019 as confirmed by meter not turning when not using water. It started leaking this year. Apparently 40l per hour although I'm amazed it was that much. Water board dug up their meter to check, No joy. I told homeowner to contact insurance, they told him to content nhbc, I told him there was no nhbc and would not likely be covered any way. He contacted insurance again, what a surprise he was covered. Such honest companies these insurance bodies are.

Hilti gun noggins as @Mr Punter says.

Put at SD lintel in with floor joists above. Realised too late, not that anyone else did. Came on here tried to get a crash course in Kn to kg. Paid an SE a couple of hundred quid to do proper calcs and work out all was ok.