Oz07

Yes now on that sketch imagine a vented floorspace inside. Just wouldn't perform as well with cold air and cold bridge of conc beams. If you brought eps up inside and also used something like hanson jet floor that would seem to get rid of the bridges.

Why, does the dpc go under the eps then? Also is this method more successful with ground bearing Slab as inside face of internal blockwork will also be at low temp in vented floor? Suppose eps could also be placed against this face for belt and braces?

Think foamglass type blocks are the accepted workaround here? Also look into using eps insulation instead of lean mix Conc in your cavity below ground. Will resist compression and reduce cold bridge. Cut a champher on top to direct water outwards. Did @joe90 do this?

If going for mbc style twin wall wouldn't it be far more sensible to have external insulation on basement? Aren't you just introducing a cold bridge and/or painful detail otherwise?

Think you'd be daft not to build a basement in London. If there are investors having basements dug and built below existing properties then that shows you how valuable space is! Sq footage is king

Wall looks neater but have to be 10mm with blob and dob on masonry wall? is 15 better?

Yeh sorry not really been paying attention. Cost of manifolds doesn't look cheap but I suppose first fix is quicker and also peace of mind re hidden joints. Would you keep all heating pipework in 15 as the reducers in 10mm could clog up in future or does this not matter as the joints are on show? I've seen manifolds which have seperate Elec controls. Would be good where you have 2 stats in house. I.e. Upstairs downstairs. Presume 10mm fine for low usage potable water?

Sorry to Hijack. @Nickfromwales seeing as you've got plenty of time to spare tell me if this makes sense. Does anyone plumb radiators in off a manifold? Doesn't seem to common on 'bog standard' new installs but I was thinking could get rid of all hidden joints. Also with water supplies why can same not be done for these? This way plaggy pipe uninterrupted in ceiling voids and all joints accessible.

I looked to replace ours earlier this week. As I was browsing I read a BBC article that many new fridges aren't upto a good fire safety standard. Plastic backs worse than metal backs etc. At this point I gave up and decided to wait till the old one breaks. Seems the fire safety regs need an upgrade

I wish. Not far from though. 1min if you jump a fence 10min to walk around

4" here too. Nice little walk over the back this morning

Do epcs allow for this? I'm guessing not? Seems a good reason to choose between. However on trad strip founds if you go 1.5m deep then you have to suspend floors

If you have a bath could tee off for basin and shower underneath this. Keeps joint somewhat accessible and as said, not often washing hands whilst showering.

Is underfloor pipe more flexible than normal plastic pipe?

Would it really though in this "real life" scenario? How much heat is lost thru the floor of just this room in the house? I'd guess the payback time would be immense at 25mm let alone 12.5

dpm underneath also

Probably a bit too spongy, too much stress on joints i'd of thought. Remove and fit underlay designed for floating timber floors.

B if gas as above. Arent regs tightening up again soon though?

Btw @Nickfromwales how much is your annual gas and leccy? Going on what plumbers charge at the minute I bet you earn it in a week or two! Mines around 5/600, 3 days of your time sir!

I'm not saying I want to use a wood burner and live in a draughty house. I built the house I'm in now last year 150mm cav, double glazing, gsh no wood burning! Was easy to build, bills are low ish and mortgage lenders will readily lend on it when I decide to sell. It's perfectly logical really and just depends how much you value your time. You have a good understanding of the mechanical aspects from your trade so you might enjoy the concept of passive. I wasn't knocking anyone who does it at all but just admitting it's beyond me and my efforts are better spent elsewhere. I think @joe90 is about where I'd want to be next time I build one for myself.

Haha outside tap ✅ someone had to come up with a certain number of ticks! higest spec?! Haven't they heard of solid work surfaces or is a £50 outside tap more of a deal breaker

Not explicitly ( can't spell nessecarily?!). Most BCO would accept a ramped threshold a bit like a hardwood window board. It could be better practically to have a 200mm wide 25mm ramp in oak say than a 15mm hard step. As ever discuss with BCO as it's their interpretation.

What do you suggest just pick the house up and move it then?! i suppose it's an unfortunate thing that gets overlooked or not noticed until you've had a winter on site. if downwards snorkel doesn't work suppose you just have to turn off mvhr, crack a couple of windows a touch and maybe put a small bit of heat into dwelling? this is what keeps me from wanting an all singing and dancing passive level house atm. A lot of issues to be ironed out. Ok if your a scientist like @JSHarris but a lot of it goes over my head!

Can mhvr not be modded to filter smoke out?

Think there is s section for receipts without any details on. You send details of the build and I think they will quickly glance over to make sure you're not taking the Micky. Is security fencing detailed on your planning? Wouldn't imagine it is liable for vat recovery