craig

It’s a glazing bead just poorly measured. More of a visual inconvenience than anything else. If need be, fill with white silicone and you’ll take the visual annoyance away (if they won’t fix). Glass, it’s a case of looking through the glass not at the glass. Is it visible from 3 metres away? If yes, ask for it to be replaced. If no, then ask but the answer is likely to be no.

Where are you based? What's your budget like? With you looking at Internorm and Solarlux, it's a decent budget that you'll have allowed. What are your timescales? I'm presuming that you're willing to use either Aluminium, timber alu or a mixture of both?

A quick snapshot of Cero III configuration options for 4 sections.

Your biggest issue is weight, second is sight lines, 3rd system. Cero’s are 34mm and I would expect you’d be wanting to follow that through. Weight, flex in beam and tolerances are the main issue. Your SE will have engineered things based on weights. However, the flex in beam (standard without weight and weight) needs to be understood. You’ll end up with doors that don’t slide if not taken into account. The Cero’s have many configuration options, so you should be able to keep the design as shown for sliding units. The challenge then becomes how to deal with the 2nd and 3rd rows. These are likely to be coupled due to size and you then have the issue with wind load on couplings and sight lines. Not that fussed on the wind load, that’ll take care of itself. However. It screams curtain walling in all honesty. And or further design and spandrel panels between floors. Which the steel can be designed to take the weights of the units above and you sit everything in front of the steels. Example below.

Give Matt a shout @ http://www.ecoglaze.ie

Yes, 2 😉

Up to the contractor to put right, happens far to often and a bit of a nightmare to remove. Cheaper for them to replace the glass and put it down to experience.

@Chanmenie Part M has been mandatory for some time but that was only the main entry door. Not all doors had to comply with part M. I have to read up to be 100% as I haven’t given it my full attention, as we make all doors accessible and have done for a decade+. I think that from June 2022 it applies to all.

New regs didn’t come into force until June 2022 from memory, this will have been approved pre June 2022 and likely won’t have been spec’d as Part M requirement. Irrespective, it’s installed wrong and the wrong threshold for the job but pretty standard as well.

It's installed wrong. Part M covers one main door for disabled access, the specs may indicate this to be done everywhere but the maximum stepover is 15mm and a straight-up edge is to be avoided. However, it looks like a complete failure to take this measurement from the FFL and they have taken this from the screed level. From screed, you would normally have 15mm/20mm floor covering, so at least 20mm of that frame on the bottom should be visible, which would supply approx. 5mm from the underside of the door sash, to the FFL.

You'll be fine with the screed up against the door, it's not going to cause a massive issue - not ideal but it should be OK and unlikely to cause a corrosion issue.

Yes snd no, we scrape the cured silicone off and then we scrub with soapy water generally to remove any residue.

We use https://www.teknos.com/en-GB/industrial-coatings/industries/building-exteriors/windows-and-doors/teknos-clean-kit/ but a bit of elbow grease and a gentle scrub and washing up liquid will also do the job, it will work on the glass as well but first we will take a good quality Stanley blade and carefully scrape of the silicone. Trust me, it happens every day, it's easier to clean it off once it's cured.

Concrete screw fixings generally.

Just do what you are doing but with a concrete screw that will bite into the brick/block - you won't need to use the type you are showing, just use https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-tx-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h Alternatively, take the window out and apply brackets. You'll get several different types (i.e. ones that will twist into grooves on the frame and others you screw) BUT both need a screw fixed to the frame. Then fix every 150mm from the corners, you can put one in the middle vertically if you feel that it would benefit you. Then jobs a good one.

It might be a bit of a faff, but chop off 40/50mm of the render and move the window forward by that distance. You should be sitting directly on the stone cill and the cill will deal with the water runoff. Put a couple of packers (5mm or so) underneath to level it out, a bead of mastic (your window is face drained), pack the side and top and you may even get a screw fixing through the frame without having to strap it back to the inner block.

Easier question, who did you buy the door from? Do you know what ptofile system was used?

Really depends on the system, bottom drained or face drain. Usually if face drained, you’ll have 2 slots with (probably lost now) drainage caps at the bottom of the door on front or if bottom drained 2 slots at the bottom (underneath). Panels are essentially just glass replacements, they should be able to be removed, just like glass. Looking at your door picture, you have beads holding the panel in place. I haven’t see the external but presume similar without beads. Once you take off beads internally, you’ll probably see packers for the panel and possibly other type clips/screws holding panel in place. Different systems, have different ways of doing things.

If you're getting water in here, then the seal on the external side has failed. You'd need to replace that, you shouldn't need to drill drainage holes. Just replace the seal for the panel and all should be good.

Go triple on them all and solar control on the triple where required, look at other systems if Nordan cannot do what you need. I know Heb Homes use Nordan all the time but there's others that can easily achieve what appears to be what you want.

The NTech sliding door sash weight limit is 135Kg, that's not that heavy to be honest. I'd pretty much agree with Heb Homes on the weight limit. A lot of systems struggle with weight and suppliers will come up with alternative design options compromising on the overall design. It's simply system limitations. I'd agree with Solar control, it's a lot of glass but I'd question their logic and difference on price. It also depends on whether Nordan / Heb are talking glass percentage difference or overall cost difference. I'd say Heb are talking overall, Nordan talking cost difference between double and triple (glass unit only).

I try and keep in touch with all our customers, pictures of the property for marketing purposes is pretty standard within T&C's but I always ask out of politeness and if refused I honour their wishes. However, we do look to use our clients homes as a show home so to speak. We know that it is intrusive but we also know clients don't always mind showing potential clients around. It gives them a chance to talk about their home and offer bits of advice. However, we don't expect it for free. So if the potential client signs up, we'll give that customer £250 as a thank you. We're honest about it and pay when they do sign up but if they don't, they get no monetary reward.

Don't understand why you're having a problem to be honest? There should be many suppliers that can help you with this, it's an easy thing to achieve.

Bottom line, they don’t need to be Pas24 but your insurance will likely be invalidated if not “in line” with the standard set out above. You should now go with the standard, it wasn’t the case before but it now is. Go with the supplier advising you that you should, sounds like they know what they’re talking about. He’s right in that if they want in, they’ll get in. However, it makes their job a lot harder to get in. Better to be safe than sorry.

Lot’s of different factors come into play but weather, poor build, poor upkeep, incorrect use etc. all play a part. Whether off the shelve or the best of the best.