craig

No, this is a timber aluminium window, with a straight edge profile which sits directly in front of the stone cill upstand. No, but if I have time, I will do a quick drawing of this tomorrow for you. That should work fine. Either or. They both have similar stub cills Yes, you'll need to offer support at the bottom, the brackets alone are not enough.

Looks lovely, I do like a bit of traditional builds blending into the existing area. If you have a look around, you'll find suppliers that are able to help.

Simple adjustments will resolve all of these issues. One that can see the difference in handle heights and that it doesn't look right, without having the knowledge or understanding of how things should be but looking for help. So they are not making themselves look stupid when they ask the question upon their return. Glazing packers should be used to around the glass unit to toe and heel as has been mentioned then spaced out around the glass unit. Not doing so, causes potential issues further down the line. As for your door sitting proud, this is simply adjustment and the door is not sitting correct, the cams are not engaging into the keeps, which forces the door out as you see. Once this is fixed (easy fix), the issue will be gone.

Not on the kitemark but you may see information written on the spacer bar relating to the glass make-up, order number, position, coating etc. You'll need to look to find and if triple it could be either the inner or outer bar.

Option 2 is my preferred option but slightly further back onto the blockwork - best position thermally. If you can get this type of detail, option 1 but, it is too far out for my liking. This drip detail at the bottom negates the need for an external aluminium cill and utilises the stone cill for its "intended purpose" otherwise, you will need a 50mm aluminium stub cill like this. Option 2 with an aluminium cill detail (how it looks will depend on the window supplier chosen but unlikely to be "much" different).

An Oscar 600 offroad is about £650 a week ex VAT for the hire, a spider crane is roughly the same. An MRTA4/6 is about £350 per week ex VAT. There will also be a cost for the delivery and collection of about £150/£200 each way that will need to be factored into any cost calculations. The MRTA4 and the forklift/telehandler attachment is generally the best option and what we find tends to work best on most self builds. But you do need to be aware of the lifting table, as 600KG weight lift is 0.5m without boom extension, you need to take this into account and the height being lifted as well (especially if lifting from outside), as you may need the bigger 800 offroad or the 1000 plus or the 1400 but you need to be really aware with these as they are solid wheels and you'll need solid ground for them to work on. In addition the weight of these needs to be taken into account, as well as the window weight. It will require scaffolding amendments but these are generally used for the larger items, most other windows we will distribute to the relevant rooms and use the largest opening upstairs for example, to lift the entire pallet load to that area. As they are 1st-floor windows, which are usually packed together. On heavy items, which are generally quite large in width and height, we will also use the MRTA811

To be fair, that’s experience and knowledge but it wasn’t me or our team. That was a supply only project to the Orkneys 😉

Correct 😉

If you're using straps, you need to lift from the bottom and you don't need to open the door to do this. However, I do presume he means a lifting strap around the bottom for 2 men to assist with the lift.

You should be able to take the sliding sash off, reducing the weight by 50%, we normally use a one wheel bogey too transport through the house. Alternative option is using an Oscar 600 off road but you can only use the fixed pane for lifting. A telehandler with fork attachment and vacuum sucker is your best bet if you can navigate around the outside of the house.

Looks like the coupling profile is missing on the inside and out, in the groove you would normally have a hardwood coupling profile. The section below is obviously two fixed windows but it's no different to coupling doors to fixed windows etc. You would normally screw through the frame, just to secure and pull it closer together but most will look to make these invisible by hiding them behind the keeps. Alternative is plugs or caps, caps being last resort.

So basically not a pocket slider within the existing wall structure but on the inside wall and new stud wall built to enclose it within. A compromise.

Basically it’s what’s required to deal with three tracks.

Sorry, I should have added that I would strongly advise against what you're wanting. It will cost a fortune, it will need a lot of compromises (thermally) and is fraught with problems.

If you're wanting a triple track pocket sliding door solution, it needs a lot of work and space this is the head (top) detail for Solarlux Cero III - it's 303mm in total depth. You only have the space for one sliding section within the wall. 71mm is the sliding section within the wall.

Sounds good in theory, but you don't have the wall depth. The actual depth of a triple track system is circa 250mm, so if you have a wall depth of 350mm for example you have 100mm for structure and finishes and insulation. Your slider would in effect be 4 leafs at 1980, as it needs the space within the wall of the relevant depth. The triple track option isn't feasible to be completely honest. Start looking at a compromise.

No, they aren't impossible, however. You need to have the relevant wall depth available to accommodate them and you need to have the relevant wall width to accept the sliding door sashes sliding inside the wall. For example, a 2m sliding section, will require a length of wall in excess of 2m to accommodate. It's not something we have actually done "yet" but not because of not wanting to, It's a standard system from our supplier.

Which in my experience, no one wants to take responsibility for and or advises that the issue is the window/door suppliers problem for not allowing the relevant tolerance in the first place. Which to be fair is a valid point, however, obtaining the deflection in the first instance can be like getting a needle from a haystack. Usually the simplest solution is to just jack things up a touch (just enough) to get the clearance for smooth operation to occur and then fixed the unit again in that position. It invariably falls onto the window/door supplier and isn't always there fault.

Yes, I haven't used them yet but a supplier we are in talks with at the moment manufactures the profiles from Aluprof. From all the technical data, drawings, pictures etc. that I have, they're a good aluminium window. This is the Ferroline range This is the MB104 passive range There are other ranges as well.

Classic case of deflection here. Not enough tolerance has been allowed been the door and the steel. Steel has deflected, most likely PU foam which turns solid has been used for installation/insultation. The steel has deflected, pushing down on the PU foam which can only push down on the frame of the corner opening bi fold which will not be a load bearing item. I can only think of two solutions. However, before this, take a level (laser preferably) and check. Speak to the bi fold supplier and find out what the measurement from the bottom track to the top track should be and measure it - you should be able to check this at each hinge side (wall side) of the bi fold. It will all lead to a weight bearing issue from the deflection from above in the corner - that is what I highly suspect has occurred. Solution 1: Open up above the bi fold, scoop out all the PU foam (that's what I presume has been used) and replace it with compriband only which is compressible. So when deflection occurs, it deflects into something that compresses so it doesn't push the top track of the bi fold down. Solution 2: Acro prop, push the roof back up (only slightly, you're only looking to get approx. 5mm). Look in the top tracks of the corner of the bi fold for a couple of locations you can pop 2 long screws in either side. Acro propping this up allows the screws to fix the item in place. Rather than trying to put the screws in an pulling the track up (which won't work). If you don't have an acro prop a car jack and a 2x2 and an another bit of timber to put between the ceiling and the 2x2 to try and prevent any damage to the ceiling. In my honest opinion and looking at the pictures, this is the only remedies I can think off.

What system? Supplier? I would be expecting flush finish, no gaps. Knowing system, supplier, it would be fairy easy to check drawings.

Hi Meabh, For your project, speak to Fakro - they should be able to achieve what you're looking for.

You’re right my bad for not zooming in on the phone 🤦‍♂️ If it was straight into the fabric yes, but not in this scenario (clearly framed and beaded now I have zoomed in). Might even be possible that joiner has made these frames. Beading looks like edge bead?

4/6/4/6/4 glazing unit. I’m going out on a limb here and saying he hasn’t ordered with Krypton filling. I’m also assuming Planitherm One as coating but unlikely and needs specs to be sure. Which he will need to provide. 1.2W/m2K argon filled 90% Yes but here there is no window frame, it is glass in the building framework and would pass. Optimal for Argon and Krypton is 18mm, larger gaps create convection. Current building regs is 1.6W/m2K for windows, changing in June to 1.4W/m/K

Having the stub cill basically expels the water out and away from, the window. Sealing underneath to prevent any water ingress into the house.