craig

The op mentioned “Jacobean” cottage which suggests Scotland as the location and Fensa is not a requirement in Scotland.

It’s consistent with a stress fracture, can’t say it’s thermal with certainty but possible load stress fracture where the glass has been packed. Thermal stress fractures are not covered under warranty but load stress should be but needs to be proven. If Thermal, then a solid argument to use is has the supplier advised on the risks of not using toughened/heat soaked glass? Did they give you the option? If no, it’s their responsibility tbh. A decent supplier I’d expect them to take it on the chin “if” thermal and not advised of your options or load stress. The position of the crack leads me to “suspect” load stress tbh, as that’s the area of the packer.

Can it be done? It depends and can costly and new doors are the easiest option. If already fitted and finishings done? Just replace the entire unit. Installed into a new build and you want to change but finishing etc not done? Then the verticals (jambs) can be swapped and new door sashes supplied but cheaper just to replace and recoup cost by selling the old one.

Exactly, windows vents are not required if alternative background ventilation exists.

it is for new builds and refurbishment/replacements when no other alternative ventilation is applied (i.e mvhr). Can you avoid it? 1: Yes, sign a disclaimer. 2: Sign a disclaimer, then stick them on. However, they are supplied for a reason, specifically room ventilation/condensation and you run the risk of condensation/mold occurring 3: You could source a single room MVHR system that is run through the wall in each room but could prove expensive. Conclusion. Get the vents.

Fensa is irrelevant for a new build, you should refer to the GGF guidelines and also look at what was and what wasn't included within the installation. Unfortunately, not every installer and or supplier understands that PU foam installation only is not a suitable method. There should be a waterproof breathable membrane and or a compriband finish, then PU foam up to the that. This is asking for problems further down the line.

I’ve sent you a message with a couple of contacts.

Out and about just now but drop me a message and I’ll pass on a couple of numbers for you.

I’ll have a look for you but out and about today with the eldest, if you want drop me a pm so I don’t forget.

Sound protection glazing is a good thing but and this a very important point. What type of noise are you experiencing and trying to block? Through ground sound can be just as noisy as sound through windows or around the window. Changing just the window and not properly specifying the right products around the window, connecting to the structure is paramount to noise reduction (i.e compriband) as well as the correct dB rated window.

Aluminium cills as above are available with push end caps but there’s not any suppliers in the UK that I’m aware of that make them. If you need any help with cills let me know.

@Hoops can you ket me know your location please? If you can drop me a message I’d be willing to assist as best as I can.

Agreed Also agreed. Also agreed. Well done, as that wouldn't have been an easy task. You did a good job there. The problem I have, is most installers will buy and will have a stack of straight brackets, you don't need to have anything fancy or expensive but just having a range of different options when you're buying materials is in my opinion paramount to having and taken pride in your work. They did a good job, it look pretty decent to be honest but it lacked professionalism and pride and they could have left a much better impression and saved a lot of headaches for others. Examples of brackets with cranks, they really do help.

As long as they follow the industry standard and recommendations set out as best practice by the GGF, then they shouldn't bend. Those brackets are by far the best window bracket out their to be completely honest but they should have used a 10mm crank bracket rather than a straight bracket and packing it out (but that is just my OCD kicking in).

We’re all middlemen for the main manufacturer, it boils down to how much the manufacturer supports the supplier or how much the supplier is interested in supporting the installers/end client.

You should have an aluminium window cill, it should have been fitted at time the window was installed and before rendering ideally.

Every system is different but between 3mm & 6mm. The space between the glass (spacer) is usually just below the gasket line or flush.

Glad they’ve taken ownership. What can be done? Not a lot really but they could place a bead of silicone under the gasket which would tighten it up and create a seal and make it a little more airtight.

I don’t I’m afraid. Call Fakro directly, they should be able to assist.

It’s not something I deal with a lot but i do tend to go direct but https://www.loftshop.co.uk/products/roof-windows appears to offer good options and prices.

@EinTopaz There's a couple of issues here tbh. It appears the glass is too big by about 3/5mm in width and height, when measuring, it would appear the have measured from bead to bead and not deducted anything and not said anything, take a bead off, and if the glass is to the frame, with no packers, that's exactly what they have done and I would be requesting they correct their mistake. Any movement and with the glass not being correctly packed, could cause the glass unit to fail. A double glazed unit will be 24, 26 or 28mm thickness, which consists usually of 2 x 4mm glass panes and 16, 18, 20mm spacer between the glass. A triple glazed unit at 28mm thickness, isn't going to be much better than a modern 2g unit in all honesty. Blue packer / glazing foam transport as @dpmiller suggested, the size of packers are defined in colour coding as standard, blue is 5mm, if they have used a packer here but I would have preferred to see some glazing tape. The glass can be up directly against the frame without a packer or glazing tape but as long as the gasket meets the glass externally. Whether it is a packer or foam glazing protector, I suspect the gasket isn't meeting the frame. green shims 1mm black shims 2mm white shims 3mm grey shims 4mm blue shims 5mm red shims 6mm Movement in spacer, this ties into point 3, this packer of 5mm appears to be an attemp to pack the glass, so that internally you wouldn't see any difference but just a suspicion, is there a gap between the frame and glass externally? If yes, then it explains the movement in the glazing bead imho. On the small angle, they have cut the bead to short and filled with silicone.

Anything,it really depends. Some are very limited on what they can offer and other cans supply 20% plus if they really want the job (they're basically buying the job at that level) and it leaves questions as to why and leaves a bad taste in my mouth. As they're clearing chancing there arms if they can offer it.

Trims 🤬 Trims are designed for one sole reason, hide things. I detest them but sometimes a necessity, a good quality mastic man can work wonders and if need be, rather than use silicone or PU foam you can you use a good compriband and this would give a really neat finish externally.

Just coming back to this, I have been given the following website as a good source of spare parts, some reclaimed parts some brand new by the looks of it and they do ship to the UK Part number 226693 https://fensterbeschlagersatzteil.de/MACO-Schlosskasten-fuer-HS-Getriebe-DM-275-PZ-Raum3R2/7 Part number 226693 (nothing found) Part number 368176 (nothing found) https://fensterbeschlagersatzteil.de/