Bonner

Hmm ?, got me thinking now. First reaction was to go with white boards but the grey looks very smart

2 acres of PV would keep you warm ?

Look in the local authority planning portal. The approved documents should include a material schedule.

For brick and block, 3-5 stage payments. First payment at DPC, nothing in advance. All stages written in contract.

I am starting to think the same. I know many here have installed their own but not sure if it is for me. With so many other things to do, I would prefer to get an approved installer to do my ASHP, cylinder and controls. I know they load the price but at least the installation cost will be paid by RHI (not sure if it will pay the entire cost?). Then the warranty is a big bonus to me.

My temporary building supply is a standpipe near the plot boundary fed from a new meter on the road verge. This will be the permanent metered supply once connected into the house. Not sure if I am going to be billed differently while it is a building supply ?

Can you use posi-joists? The supplier will do the calcs. Worth asking for a quote.

I have quotes around 2.5k for 300k reinstatement cost (traditional construction). Try Buildzone, Buildcare, Buildstore (might be the same company?) and Protek. Note Protek were not offering any policies until April. If you talk to them, let us know the current situation ?

I am close to ordering my windows, still dithering about colours. Was thinking grey external and natural timber internally but the dark internal colour seems to frame the view nicely ?

I was looking for the same at the weekend, tried iScape but lost patience with it very quickly. It works off photos rather than plot shape and dimensions, at least I couldn’t find a simple way to define the boundaries which I thought would be the starting point. Also free version looks very basic and immediately starts asking you to sign up for £9/month without being able to try it properly. Sorry, not very helpful but maybe one not to bother with!

Cheeky buggers! It should be obvious that these are homes for night shift workers only ? I am putting bat boxes on the house so I will be the noisy neighbour, hammering all day ?

Have you got space for a treatment plant? Cost would be about half that.

The whole report, that’s what they asked for in my application

I am planning a garage so was following this thread. Had to google pole fit, hadn’t thought of that but looks fun ?

+1 for the kiosk, I am installing one at the roadside boundary. Will be used for temporary building supply then connected to the consumer unit in the house by my electrician.

In my experience, there is no connection between planning and building control. We are using a neighbouring LA for building control. I considered going for BR before planning and my architect advised it would be fine. Only consequence of changes would be that I would have to pay them more money to revise the drawings ? The risk is on you, potential costs if there are any changes needed.

Same for me, Protek wouldn’t even give me an indicative quote. They also explained the 25% premium uplift if I miss a stage but the audit fee would be reduced as a result of one less site inspection. @SuperJohnG unless we are missing something, I agree the total warranty cost goes down the more inspections you miss! Not sure I can take the chance of start building (early April) without warranty inspections but it is tempting to take one out later ...

I am looking for 11.2kW HP + 300L cylinder. @LA3222, as you said Midsummer list prices are steep, how did you get a trade account?

Don’t mix up pressure and flow rate, you can have good pressure but p*** poor flow rate if there is a restriction in the line (PRV, shower valve or small bore piping). Boosting the pressure won’t improve the flow rate if this is the case. Agree as above, you need to measure the pressure and try adjusting the PRV before spending any money...

I wanted 3 phase but couldn’t get it for my new build. Water and electric around 2-2.5k each including road crossings.

Dig a couple of holes, one inside your boundary and another where the trench might go. If they fill with water, a soak away won’t work use it for a pond or bog garden. If it is just your garden holding water, you might be able to drain it. Trial holes about 2ft deep can be dug by hand and should give some idea what’s going on under ground.

I wouldn’t waterproof internally, ventilate the gap behind your stud wall and let it breath. If you seal both sides, any moisture that does get in won’t be able to escape and will tend to blow the coatings.

Tried Houzz, bloody awful IMO! Instagram is far better

I will be doing a lot of work to keep costs down, building detached garage, second fix etc. but I decided to leave the shell to the builder, otherwise I might just get in the way. I will be going in to fit MVHR ducts and other extras but mostly weekends when the builder is offsite.

I am at a similar point, bigger contractors came back with silly quotes but small local builder much more reasonable. However we are going to sign a JCT contract with fixed price for water tight shell. Not exactly sure what time and material arrangements you have decided but I would be very wary of costs going out of control. If your builder is convinced he can bring it on budget, why not fixed price?