Bonner

Have to agree with the planners I’m afraid, it looks very busy with too many ‘pointy bits’. You say there is no strong architectural style in the area but are there any common themes you could pick up on, and create a modern interpretation? Maybe simplify the design with one or two gables and lose that dormer, it looks like the architect got carried away with the triangular stencil. Sorry but you asked, hope that helps...

@ToughButterCup, any more ‘confessions of a window cleaner’ you would like to share ? Maybe a different thread or even a blog?

Sounds fantastic! Are you really building underneath the listed property or at a lower level behind it? Look forward to seeing lots of pictures and plans!!

+1 - looks like a good job to me. Traditionally slate and tile roofs had slight kick at the gable end to prevent rain running off the edge.

Easier, no need to chase the wall, just drill behind the skirting, no plaster needed to make good

Not a problem drilling 50-60mm hole in a 200mm joist as long as it is mid depth. A bit of reinforcement won’t do any harm.

Fixed price main contract, the builder won’t get anything until joists. It’s just frustratingly slow and unpredictable. I need to order windows but can’t be sure when they will be ready.

Brickies started my build on Friday last week. I met them on site and we agreed mortar mix, pointing etc. good lads.They built a section of wall which looks great ... not been back since! Spoke to the builder who said they have gone on another job. I can’t be sure the same lads will be back, what’s the point of starting a new job for one day?!

Can anyone recommend a zero/low standing charge electricity supplier who will fir a new meter? I have a new connection in a kiosk which will new used as temporary building supply. Tried searching the web but I can’t see anything suitable. All the comparison sites want to know my current supplier and how much I am paying now ... ?

I am building the third property severed by a private drive. I do not own the drive, only right of access over it (and contribute to maintenance). Highways initially wanted the driveway modifying but when I told them it was existing and not my property, they backed down.

This would apply to any window as far as I can see. The window is simply packed out with a timber spacer to avoid burying the frame under cladding. Frame needs to sized accordingly, ie. opening dimensions - (cladding + battens).

Chimneys were often parged with lime mortar to protect the brick work, improve draw and prevent leaks. Yours does look in good condition and remarkably clean.

Granny used to polish glasses with newspaper dampened with water or vinegar. Dipped in a bit of soot from the fire to remove stubborn marks. Some of the old tricks still the best IMO

Agreed, it could cause balancing issues if not set up right. I had minimal flow through the towel rads restricted by 10mm pipe and lock shield valves. Did not have any impact on radiators or hot water. Just an idea, worked well for me but not for every situation.

In previous houses, I have run several towel rads from a tee before the diverter valve. They come on with both hot water and heating, controlled manually or by TRVs. Simple!

Welcome, don’t worry there are no stupid questions here ? I had similar experience with trades over the years and I learnt to do almost everything myself. But bricklaying (and plastering) is something I will always leave to the professionals!

Don’t be put off by any apparent scepticism, this is what a normal house should cost! Self builders tend to focus on larger, high spec homes which cost much more. Developers will be spending this kind of money on houses they sell for £250k+ but they have economies of scale. Watch out for utility connection costs but as you say, this will be funded by the mortgage ... To answer your specific questions, you can make any offer you want (subject to contract) then sort out the mortgage. Bear in mind, in a competitive market, sellers will prefer cash offers. Survey costs depend on the lender and your attitude to risk.

I did the same without any problems. Slip a pallet knife under the rubber seal to see if there is any mastic. Very unlikely to find any unless there has been a leak. Long flat blade to prise the bead out gently.

I chose my builder on the basis that he was the only one that answered the phone when I wanted to talk about the quotes. All the others didn’t even call me back or answer emails. His price was was reasonable and he was willing to talk to me and that is priceless!

Perfectly acceptable on an older house. Assuming it rises up at the other end as well? If it is a gable end, it should kick up slightly to avoid shedding rain water down the wall.

Spoke to Protek again today, they are not offering structural warranties until September now! Can’t wait until then, will have to make alternative arrangements

Fully agree, don’t count on £/m2 rates for any kind of financial planning. The difference between £1500 and £2000/m2 on the average self build is £100k or more. Get a costing done by a QS or online estimator, then add all the utilities, fees and finishes. Don’t forget garage and landscaping which can be significant costs. If you must use a rate for basic forecasting, I would start with £2000/m2 at the moment even for fairly basic spec. * in the midlands *

It is structural warranty that they are not able to offer, although last week when I spoke to them it was imminent... Site insurance has never been a problem, they have got to have something to sell!

It might give the LPA an excuse for not reaching a decision in the statutory 56 days which seems to be imminent. Our PP came through 55 days after a few last minute clarifications so they do seem to work to this target. Could be just internal issues for them, hopefully.

Very unlikely because it’s so hard. Just find the fixing screw and undo them, see what happens. Remember - righty tighty, lefty loosey ?