Bonner

I would use rigid plastic stuff, cheaper, easier to work with and probably quieter. If it’s the same size as the bend, try the pipe directly onto the spigot.

Just been quoted £6/m2 for boarding and the same for skimming (£12/m2 board and skim) inc. materials. Does this seem reasonable in 2022?

My soakaways are closer than that due to space constraints, approved by BC so it is not undevelopable. But you need an acceptable solution before committing

Welcome, no worries plenty of amateur enthusiasts here 😉 Velux are normally very robust, never had a problem as you describe. Might be worth posting a photo to obtain more specific advice.

Before you decide it needs replacing or even repairing, what’s the problem? Is it not working in some way? How do you know? Keep in mind that thousands of homes have septic tanks which have done the job for years without any baffles or anything else inside!

You are doing well, this one’s flying up! Last time I looked you were in the trenches. Started thinking where the Christmas tree is going yet? 😉

No.1 for me would be to fit self closers, an open door is useless! Next make sure they are very well fitted, minimal gaps and all round seals if you want to go that far. Have you thought about fire doors?

Heavy rebar epoxied into the wall? Have you looked on YouTube? Loads of ideas, quite a lot American so some materials and tools we don’t have but worth a browse.

Not wishing to split hairs ... but it’s kWh isn’t it?

Depends what it will be used for and when? How do you intend to insulate the walls and roof? Have you got space to put some PIR over the frame? Even 25mm would be better than nothing. Although you have a cold bridge with the steel, it’s still worth putting 50mm PIR in the frame if you have the time. Cut it a big bigger and stick in with expanding foam.

Still not sure, seems to be all he knows or maybe he calls all framing timber CLS?! Anyway I went to the timber merchant and looked at both, you can hardly tell the difference. CLS is paler in colour, presumably because it has more planed off. Both straight, smooth, kiln dried and rounded edges. Regularised (C16) is available in 3.6m lengths from stock and costs less per metre. So bigger timbers for less money with less waste, ordered!

Interesting, that’s quite a small section but good know it feels solid. What spacing are your studs?

Thanks for all the replies, should have explained its for internal (non load bearing) stud walls. Large part of them are 3.3m high, hence wanting the slightly thicker section, as well as 400 centres! Another issue is door casings are 114mm to fit 89mil studs + 2x12.5 board. Next size is 138/140mm. I am going to the timber merchant this morning to look over it.

No, you’re right. Labour costs more than the material so I’m better off staying with standard. Cheers

Okay, I’m convinced! 😄 Thanks Joe

That makes sense, just thought a rebated frame would feel more solid but suppose you wouldn’t notice any difference once it’s done

He prefers CLS as it’s easier to work with but regularised is cheaper and a bit wider (95 vs 89mm)

Suddenly got a joiner lined up to start next Monday but need to order all the material for stud walls PDQ 😲 CLS or regularised timber (4x2 nominal)? Door casings rebated or separate stop beads (114mm)?

Door frame lining will be 38mm, add 5mil all round for adjustment. Can’t do sums at this time of the morning ...

Powder is insoluble solids left after the all the liquid has been sucked in the plaster. Should just rub off.

Has an engineer been out to have a look? I found it very useful talking to one rather than people in the estimating department. They will always start with a presumption that the customer will pay for anything that needs doing!

Inside your sewage tank? 😆 Nice view though!

Not a chimney, that’s a corner of the main house (WBS is going in single storey part) I was hoping to take the ridge tile off and tuck the flue flashing under it, as the stepped flashing has been done.

Checked the rafters are clear of that position. Trying to get a vertical flue straight up from the woodburner so that’s where it needs to go. I am more concerned about the flashing next to the ridge tile.

Ignoring the mess ... is it possible to get a 7” diameter flue in the position highlighted? Stove installer is saying not, is he right or just a bit fiddly? Quite happy to take the ridge tile off (for obvious reasons!) but how would the flashing fit?