Alexphd1

First off send your plans off to some companies ie wunda, uponor, speedfit etc they will supply you back a spec (but not drawings most companies will keep hold of these until you actually buy their products). Then its easy for you to price up the material but remember a lot of material is interchangeable with other material, I used uponor mlcp (not pex!!) pipe but bought manifolds off ebay and still havent made up mind on the controls.

Try these guys aswell. http://www.styrene.biz/index.html I personally would try and get the L upstand pre cut but if you needed to do it yourself then I don't actually see a problem. We run out of kore clips but ended up bending welding rods (need to double check) . We also used the welding rods for pegging in the DPM on the outside of the L upstand. We also needed to source extra eps 300 and 100 (100mm thick) online from the insulation superstore. For the second house foundation I will unlikely go with kore again as their sheets are pretty small dimensions and expensive shipping from Ireland for 1 1/2 lorries.

We finally used the silverline pump. It done the job fine.

+1 for the low expansion soudal foam we also found it better than than the screwfix/soudal stuff. The amazon link above seems to be normal expansion soudal foam.

We done 2 pours with nudara icf and used a poker both times (not sure if nudara recommend a poker) 1st time was a big 110v poker from the local tool hire, it was to big and you would be easy to damage/blow out the icf if you wasn't watching what you was doing. Second time we bought two used belle mega vib (with smallest head available) from flee bay. It done the trick is was surprising how much the concrete level dropped (air pockets coming out) after using the poker . I have attached a picture of a pocket in the icf to show the concrete consistency for a I beam which was approx 1m concrete drop from the top of icf. I also had a friend who used amvic icf who had to open up a lot of the icf for various fixings (cantilever stairs etc) who also used a poker and everything was perfect. I also was on the quad lock installer course and they also said use a poker.

I will report back on the tool !

Pay your money take your chances with silverline!!! The money will be returned!

Bugger

Just ordered a silverline one. £5.09 delivered.

I was just looking at those! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142183010077?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Slightly different but our engineer was happy with 12mm threaded bar (cast into icf concrete) at 600mm centers but our longest span is 6m. We ended putting them in at 400mm centers as the joist is 400mm centers, we are also using the posi joist on the top chord saving using hangers.

Had a slightly different experience with cheap white goods in rental properties esp wasing machines. One flat was kitted out in candy, within 7 years all goods have been replaced apart from hob. We have mostly bosch/neff appliances now and have had very little problems in recent years.

I believe hormann own Garador and their sectional doors are the same quality but i am finding they are slightly better priced. Also worth noting my local garage door fitter has quoted supply and install cheaper than the online supply only companies (material like for like).

@PeterW Just over 600kg. The genie lifts made life very easy but not as easy as your way!

To be honest, I prefer working with steel than timber. Just finished the ridge beam so we are on a roll with metal!

Good evening. We are building 100mm block either side of the stairs case, the original plan was just to drop in pre made timber staircase which will be carpeted so nothing fancy needed. Just had a thought could we not just bolt through some angle bar on to the blockwork with timber steps??

Very good advice from Nick !

it sounds like a very simple solution ! Does anybody want to buy a dozen roomstats ?

What would happen when the pump is on and you open the hot water in the kitchen sink? Would the pump act against the flow to the tap?

What's wrong with DHW loop by a pump?

Are you on mains gas? Sorry just re read it and your own oil. A oil boiler will have no problem heating both tanks at the same time.Don't think you will have a problem with controls I personally would just add a extra 2 port valve through a tank stat and controlled by a standard timer. You can get multiple channel timers but they tend to be expensive, easier with a extra single channel timer (combi boiler timer) above your existing controls for the extra tank.

Absolutely nothing wrong with having two cylinders we came across this pretty often more so in older installations. Another option is a hot water loop with a pump which cuts the time running cold water for hot. Just a idea.... could you not run the DHW pump (obviously not direct)when you switch the bathroom lights on ?

Why not just put the ducting in just now to give you options at a later date.

Hi, I feel for you, we also had "issues". Can i ask why is the sprinkler system such a big no?

Do you have you much rebar coming out of the footings? if not how about using rails (usually overkill for strip foundations but 8mm tolerance is very low) ? We are planning on using http://www.acrascreed.com/index.html on the next build but its a eps raft slab. If you do have rebar cant you just pre mark the rebar say 30cm up and measure back during the pour. Does the polar wall have a starting strip for the 1st course to sit on? the nudara icf is pretty forgiving for poor levels.