dpmiller

yep, not so much a UK thing, that one?

https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/buffer-tanks-cylinders/products/cool-energy-120l-stainless-buffer-tank-ce-b120

the Aico is combined heat and CO...

Radon polythene is 100% virgin as I recall.

A settling period is good, but only if the aerator has the oomf to break through settled sludge on re-start. 5mins in the hour does sound *very* short however...

According to the website: "3. The final settlement tank is where the excess biomass settles to form sludge. At preset intervals, portions of the sludge and liquor are returned to the primary tank for additional treatment." however excess implies there was "too much" in the previous stage chamber. Why would it need to be sent back for additional treatment unless somehow harmful to the outflow? I'd be going back to Kingspan for a WRITTEN response on this as if SEPA got wind of a non-compliant install someone could be in a world of pain...

If a solenoid is required for the install, it should have been supplied along with the plant. Are the unit's efficiency numbers quoted with or without said valve?

Is it not 1.46 that applies in this situation?

except you won't, because it'll turn itself off...

For anyone looking some IP65 LED battens, these are a super buy. Good brand, light's a nice colour and the added microwave sensor is worth the price they're charging on it's own. I bought 5 and there's plenty more... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384763287555

...and remember that holes in steels need to be positioned wrt the pozijoists too so there could be a to-and-fro between the pozi designer and the SE (if they're different people) I just asked our TF guys to design in a couple of holes in each steel and had no problems routing the services from that point on.

screed can be gypsum too if you prefer

^ that's just a tripler from an old telly.

I've just been through this for my own big shed, and ended up getting some bays of used longspan which gives loads of space. 2.5m bays.

screwless faceplate, or screwless terminals?

it wouldn't take long with a masonry bit to confirm or deny your suspicions

£100 for a one-off fill of glycol vs (say) coming back to a cold *and unheatable* house after a nice skiing holiday, because you'd turned the heating off and there was sudden cold snap? No-brainer for me, and I don't even do skiing...

anybody got a note on how they're supposed to work?

filters can be a ripoff. The media is cheap- look at the average car spraybooth, the non-woven media used is about £2/ m2. But cut it into a wee piece for (say) a fume hood or even an MVHR and well...

and what's the filter and scale situation on it?

I'll offer the contrary view that a short-term imbalance won't harm anything, and cooking may well be excess heat that then causes the rest of the house to overwarm. We've two normal extract points at the "cooking" end of the kitchen area and these deal with day-to-day moisture and odours. But I also have a sizeable extractor over the cooker which can separately deal with the big heat, smell, and grease from rapid wok cooking. At other times it's sealed off by a gravity flap in the duct.

OP, why not just flush the system, replace the PHE, and carry on- for now?

^ but with inverter HPs the efficient range is very wide, infact best efficiency will be at much less than full power as you can stay out of the defrost zone for longer.

so back to the old distance to boundaries/ fire protection thingy. Have you got all the necessary facts lined up?

If you're going to mess it up shoveling stone, does it really need done *now* or would it do as-is until later (and cleaner) into the build?