dpmiller

put a screw up through the middle of each sucker instead of the bonded-in stud and that'll give a hard stop?

definite neutral fault then

40mg/l. Just about zero of a coating on the base of a 15yo kettle.

So finally progress, the steel posts arrived this evening. Need to get'em in and thunderbolted into place and then onwards to subfloor level. got the loan of a CAT last weekend and was able to map the actual positions of the water and phone lines- straight along the middle of the lane, not along the side of the field as I was told. Ho-hum. Oh, and I acquired a hydraulic breaker for the Takeuchi. I *think* it's a JCB HM100Q with the hat modified for Tak/Kubota bit it works, the steel's not in bad nick and it fits so that'll do nicely.

We remortgaged the current pad to fund our build with Virgin Money with no questions asked, a reasonable rate, and about 85% LTV if I recall correctly.

be careful, plaster dust kills vacuums.

I'm but a simple soul and am looking forward to moving from the 2100 of our current house to a heady 2400...

check with your Hetas guy too. Like gas men some are really picky about what they'll connect to- will he be able to check distance to combustibles etc after you've completed the roof?

You can Dave. Take your distance prescription and put whatever ADD you want on it. SWMBO has a similar problem- the optician sets her reading power for normal "holding a paperback" distance and it's useless if she's sitting 2ft away from a monitor in work...

if you've got your prescription go to somewhere like www.selectspecs.com and when you're entering your script change the figure in the "Add" column. If your normal reading glasses are eg Add 2.5D, get a pair made up at 3.0 or 3.5. Even get a couple of pair at different strengths. At a tenner a pair it isn't much to lose... Or get some poundshop specials of different strengths and see which diopter helps most when worn over your own first.

why does your CWS tank run out? Is there a massive restriction in the rising main to it?

"please avoid (and call the office for advice)" looks rather different to "you must not".

Bonkers here, they introduced a local permit scheme... A trailer is only private if single axled. Double axled? You're automatically a trader and need a permit. Drive a van? Needs a permit. Any trailer on a van automatically trade. Whist permits are free, there are two kinds. Single use, anything brought in *but must be itemised on the permit* Mulit use- only for garden waste on a trailer. If you're in a van you MUST NOT UNLOAD ANYHING FROM THE VAN during each visit. Oh and don't start me on scrap. The council's metal skip is subbed to a local recycler, who is based less than 100yds away and pays well for drive-ins. Why would anyone give it to the council for free? Heck I've a guy that calls to the door to collect all mine and crosses my palm each time. no, his house doesn't have wheels...

certainly for my installed, insulated frame kit I found MBC much dearer in a like for like comparison.

depends what velocity is reads down to - this one only resolves to 0.1m/s and will be dubious under 1m/s. OK for wind, not so good for MVHR

https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/ivar-thermostatic-mixing-valve-pump-set-p-1073.html?search=ivar dualmix on it's own here if anyone needs it.

replace the snazzy stuff wth cheapo UPVC?

it's above the DPC isn't it?

I've a handy tester that can tell you the total length of the cable as well as the distance to a fault. They're pretty dear to buy but if you're stuck I could send it over for a try?

Is any of our local sand *not* from Lough Neagh, @Declan52?

tubs seem like a load less hassle. Arrive to start work in the AM, fresh tub waiting.

Poured screeds can go down to around 40mm, 25mm pipe cover.

dunno about that, our 7N are around that weight.

You could always try unscrewing the white collar to the left of the silver nut/ clippy bit and see if the floatvalve will lift out then.

Yup, that's how my guy has handled it.