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dpmiller

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Everything posted by dpmiller

  1. dpmiller
    ^I'd be interested in that if it came off...
  2. dpmiller
    didn't we just decide that having stuff plugged in inside drawers and cupboards was a bit risky?
  3. dpmiller
    I'd think a stanley blade is too thin. The back edge of it, or the back of an old jigsaw/hacksaw blade maybe? You're using it as a scraper after all.
  4. dpmiller
    if the window is foamed in where are you putting the Compriband anyway?
  5. dpmiller
    children produce a lot of hot air.
  6. dpmiller
    I'm 47 and put off/ talked myself out of this journey until we were mortgage free. For context tho, I bought the house we're in now when I was 20, I *wanted* to own a house then and paying even that £25k mortgage was hard work for the first years. But it's the choice I made.
  7. dpmiller
    ^ you can do that with the Hager Sollysta too.
  8. dpmiller
    Sitrep. Rain has been stopping play somewhat recently, but the steels are in, Quinnlites are here, and the guys are getting things filled in ready to blind and then put the radon barrier over. BCO and blockman have a plan for levels vs DPCs etc from here up and it'll all work out nicely by the looks of it.
  9. dpmiller
    yes, but how many times can you walk over it before it shreds?
  10. dpmiller
    wouldn't you need to put some stone over the membrane anyway?
  11. dpmiller
    what size are the fittings? There are some cheap and efficient vendors on Ebay.
  12. dpmiller
    that's a fancy house not to have MVHR...
  13. dpmiller
    Epoxy, but if it's a GRP moulding can you not just lay a bit of mat on the inside?
  14. dpmiller
    Is the red tape not the remains of the fire barrier rolls?
  15. dpmiller
    put a screw up through the middle of each sucker instead of the bonded-in stud and that'll give a hard stop?
  16. dpmiller

    Light not working

    dpmiller replied to Wes's topic in Lighting

    definite neutral fault then
  17. dpmiller
    40mg/l. Just about zero of a coating on the base of a 15yo kettle.
  18. dpmiller
    So finally progress, the steel posts arrived this evening. Need to get'em in and thunderbolted into place and then onwards to subfloor level. got the loan of a CAT last weekend and was able to map the actual positions of the water and phone lines- straight along the middle of the lane, not along the side of the field as I was told. Ho-hum. Oh, and I acquired a hydraulic breaker for the Takeuchi. I *think* it's a JCB HM100Q with the hat modified for Tak/Kubota bit it works, the steel's not in bad nick and it fits so that'll do nicely.
  19. dpmiller
    We remortgaged the current pad to fund our build with Virgin Money with no questions asked, a reasonable rate, and about 85% LTV if I recall correctly.
  20. dpmiller
    be careful, plaster dust kills vacuums.
  21. dpmiller
    I'm but a simple soul and am looking forward to moving from the 2100 of our current house to a heady 2400...
  22. dpmiller
    check with your Hetas guy too. Like gas men some are really picky about what they'll connect to- will he be able to check distance to combustibles etc after you've completed the roof?
  23. dpmiller
    You can Dave. Take your distance prescription and put whatever ADD you want on it. SWMBO has a similar problem- the optician sets her reading power for normal "holding a paperback" distance and it's useless if she's sitting 2ft away from a monitor in work...
  24. dpmiller
    if you've got your prescription go to somewhere like www.selectspecs.com and when you're entering your script change the figure in the "Add" column. If your normal reading glasses are eg Add 2.5D, get a pair made up at 3.0 or 3.5. Even get a couple of pair at different strengths. At a tenner a pair it isn't much to lose... Or get some poundshop specials of different strengths and see which diopter helps most when worn over your own first.
  25. dpmiller
    why does your CWS tank run out? Is there a massive restriction in the rising main to it?
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