dpmiller

Jeez it's been windy this week. Nevertheless we've most of the verge trims on, the first two GSE trays installed (with lots of fiddly setting-out done that will carry over to the other two and eight) and tiling has started in earnest on the leeward side. I think we made a great choice with the Snowdon tiles even if they are pretty heavy.

or one of these if you're short on funds- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Underfloor-Heating-Thermostatic-Mixer-Mixing-Group-without-pump/112017177467?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Not yet, probably a month or more away yet.

We're going with a downstairs bathroom (OK shower room) that has jack &jill doors to a room which will likely be dining or study for now but easily utilised as an elderly parent's bedroom (or indeed a master for us if our knees go...). The shed will have a loo in it when built so no need for one "in the house" that's accessible with dirty feet.

Not rocket science to get things the right size with TF as long as everyone reads the plans- plans show window sizes, TF Co make the openings an agreed oversize.

is the fact that there's no PB maybe confusing it?

...and time to do the dormer. The side panels worked out nicely, we went with an aluminium abutment tray from Kytun and will do the same at the sides of the dormer. But a simple Q. Do (why?) all dormers require a window tray? The -upvc- window in our dormer is fitted exactly the same as the rest of the house- firestop batten around the top and sides of the opening, window fitted flush with. There'll be a upvc cill screwed to the bottom of the frame externally, and the whole clad in renderboard. Why would this window need a tray where the rest of the windows in the house don't? All have a ventilated free-draining cavity after all...

https://www.bes.co.uk/cistermiser-combimate-dual-fit-scale-reducer-17067 a lot less than £171

All DeWalt here other than a Paslode 350 and an old Makita collated screwdriver. My first cordless- 25 years back- was a B&D and when it died I kept the batteries and bought a bare Dewalt drill to replace it. The rest is history. Except that I bit the bullet at the end of last year (as all my XRP batteries are going soft, and used XRP kit is still cheap as chips) and got some XR stuff, and a couple of XRP-XR adaptors.

I got a Bosch Daredevil bit a few months back and it fair chews through wood on the impact driver. Nasty thing.

use a UFH controlbox to accept requests from each house (via it's 'stat inputs), with motor valves driven off the actuator outputs and the boiler driven by the boiler output. Heat or DHW request on any input will bring the boiler and it's circ pump on.

is there a bypass valve on the manifold?

Scumble?

sorry if this is an obtuse question, but what makes a kitchen "Italian" or "German"? Are there specific design features unique to that locale or is it just where the factory is?

We've a Portaloo and a nice dry rubbled site. The TF team ate in their van and had no need for mains electric, the brickies set up residence on a scaffold plank sitting on blocks in the kitchen and brought a genny when needed, and the Romanian guys dong the insulation didn't stop for long enough to eat. I did power a couple of LED floods off a car battery by inverter for them tho.

so get him to do it. Simples.

Sorry, I'm gonna be blunt here- if you welding aint great, don't practice on a safety device. Heck look a the price of the product is Onoff's link, it's not worth taking the risk.

Possibly a silly question but... Other than the maximum temp being capped at 40c instead of 60c and the lack of control for a 3-way valve, what are the differences between pool heat and home heating ASHPs?

A standard pressure jet burner (duno what Rayburn use these days?) shouldn't have a problem with 2m lift. The oil pump will happily pull from an underground tank. Pipe restriction/ entrained air may be more of an issue but there's ways round that.

what have you been quoted? Vent Axia's Kinetic Highflow will do 350m2. have a look here: https://www.bpcventilation.com/heat-recovery/full-diy

if you can produce a vacuum of some kind that might be worth a try too, pull the obstruction back. Know any aircon guys?

Impacts are less fatiguing to use at higher torque levels than a drill, you're not having to fight the torque reaction the whole time.

It just keeps on keeping on here. Shortly after the insulation touched down, the install team appeared. Two local chaps, and two Romanian brothers. The Romanian guys are stellar workers but together they all put a goodly number of evening and weekend man-hours in and insulation is now complete. Frametherm between the studs, foiled VCL, 40mm PIR, 50x35 service battens. Neat work. One of the Romanian guys- Marian- currently has no "real" job but on the basis of his work so far I'd be more than happy to let him loose on some other stuff. Infact, whilst I was considering hiring in a telehandler for a day to place the tiles "up above", he offered to shift them with some of his friends. Deal done, they arrived on Sunday morning past and in four hours handballed around seven tonnes of clay tiles up and around the scaffold. Now *that* was hard work. Respect. other bits and bobs? Finished the infill panels above the porch, fitted the continuous soakers there and did some tiling, and fitted the flashing to the Keylites. Fitted Compriband (well, Soudal stuff...) between window frames and sills. Amazing how slow it expands on a cold morning. And I've put in the earth rod and carried out a Ze test as we'll soon need to be getting the electric in. Happy with the result- 68ohms- much better than 200. Now to set the tiles out on the other roof faces and put up the GSE trays. Once all that is done I might just soldier on with the tiling, or I might see what big Marian and his mates think about it...

[cough] which merchant?

The guys at BPC did a design for me for a few quid against a future order ( gave the BCO a nice official drawing with flow numbers on...) and they got it pretty much spot-on. I'm doubling-up on the studs in two small wall areas to give the ducts ( and rising wiring and plumbing) plenty of space and moving one pair of ducts to negate boxing in but their 3d drawing is pretty close and darned helpful...