dpmiller

I acquired a pukka (but chinesium) tester to do Ra on my recently-installed spike as my MFT doesn't have that capability. It's a 50V test. I was well pleased with the sub-70ohm value achieved and glad not to find rock as the spike went in, more to the point... It was interesting just how little effect the position of the test electrodes made. I tried them in a number of different substrates and positions accross the rear of the house, between it and the pole/transformer our supply will come from. Hardcore, soil, puddle, every test came back between 65 and 68 ohms. Pretty repeatable I thought.

^that's for a larder fridge or fridgefreezer Dave, the cut-in temp is +3.5C. I think it's the VS/VL5 you need for a standalone freezer, cut-in is -12C...

Pop the cap off the terminal cover, you might find a diode in there already...

Consumer-range Karcher can be hit-or-miss, especially the ones wth the plastic pump heads if they're left full of water in the frost. YMMV.

27kg/m2 by the looks of it. Our Snowdons are about 37.

Same with our LBS Snowdon. Looks like a big rustic slate, and manages a very small headlap as there's a gutter built into the top edge of each tile.

Our TF had a craned-in floor cassette, and each portion came with a factory-fitted strip of heavy polythene around the perimeter to act as a Tony Tray.

Ta Dave. I think we'll be going with RTU but there was next to damn-all between the two quotes... Did they say anything about doorway joints? RTU have priced expansion strips but I haven't seen much guidance on where they're needed.

Yup. Look at the MIs, it's quoted up to 2.5bar and is set up with quench coil, thermopocket for Watts quench valve and safety valve.

Woodfire Passiv and CX12 are both setup for pressurised systems and quench coils etc.

You could try Polarwall for XPS as well? https://extrudedpolystyreneinsulation.co.uk/insulated-raft-foundation

Yup, had one of these for years. Great head, easy to clean etc. On our electric shower there's a barely-noticeable difference between full and eco, and SWMBO likes the piercing central setting for rinsing...

Just a sanity check here- if I'm using PIR or EPS as a perimeter like this, then there's no need for the usual 8mm edge roll? 50mm poured screed if it's relevant.

What about using a bypass valve (tee'd between pump and motor valve) to open if the pump's running with the 2-port closed? That would give you circulation without flow through the coil.

I've a Zarges Skymaster 3x6 (4m) combo, a 2x4m roof ladder, a couple of sets of stepladders, and a sliding/folding jobbie from Lidl, like a Little Giant. Whilst the Zarges is absolutely the stiffest and nicest, the Lidl unit is the handiest by far- it does the lot!

related... what's the score with mat wells wrt level access?

So the safety stat pops when the bottom 6" of the tank passes 90deg? (looks like a standard sensor pocket...) And the element looks like a bespoke black-heat style jobbie with cold tails through compression fittings.

And all this, folks, is why I'll be working out my own controls on a well-insulated TS.

Tiling tribulations... so yesterday didn't qo quite as planned although we've recovered well and as the man says, there are never problems , only solutions Regardless of how I measured it previously, with the GSE trays up on the roof, there's no way eight are going across the rear face in two rows of four. Four across the top and one either side of the dormer is almost as good and takes no extra material. As for the last two panels then, we noted yesterday the chinmey isn't as much of a shadow issue as anticipated even this early in the year so they're going on the "front" SW roof face. Just need an extra pair of top corner flashings to complete. In actual fact, because of a shipping delay the quad inverters haven't landed yet so we're going back to duals which will suit and ease wiring to the 6 rear panels. It's a few quid extra but well worth it. The other "solution" involves the valley trays. The kit had been erected with 8x1" boards in the valleys (for flat trays or lead) but we've gone for the Filon dry valley with upstand like Jeremy used. This results in the inner gutter bars of the valley tray sitting too high and putting the last tile at a cant. Roofing blokey that made up our chimney backgutters reckoned it would be an issue, and as much as we can get the tile to sit down nearly flat by grinding the back out of it it's time-consuming and not quite perfect. So the executive decision was made to pull the boards off and replace with a fine ply layer. Local BM has just delivered a load of ply to site ripped into 225mm strips so tomorrow's job is to replace boards with ply. Heck it's hassle and a few quid but a darned-bit better than having to cut all the tiles or cut all the valley boards and set them in on battens...

the track holes are through-plated. cap does look dodgy tho... Might also be worth shorting the backup battery briefly as a full reset.

Yes, I've rolls of clear poly ( wrapped around the floor cassettes per @TerryE above), exterior sheathing, and roofing membrane all spare.

what kind of supply/ earthing do you have?

Dunno, looks like 65mm here? https://leadsheet-autocad.co.uk/downloads/abutment-flashing-with-secret-gutter-5f/

no trees nearby for us and a good 30mm of an open gully, the way the tiles worked out. If that gets blocked I'll be very surprised!

I'm just in the process of doing this, and used an aluminium soaker http://www.kytun.com/p/continuous-aluminium-soaker-24m-blue_black/c14bb just need to stop the battens a bit short for it.