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Everything posted by markc
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I don’t understand why a Juliet cannot be higher than 1100? Is this if it’s used for fire escape reasons? If it was a parapet or balustrade etc it can be higher but not lower
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Exactly, the stands had raised timber floors and were bouncy walking on them. Top hung doors would probably have been ok but the floor movement caused the slides to bind
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ahh, yes so it’s not that you want to seal the downstairs from the upstairs but rather looking to stop cold air coming into the floor void. Tony tray is out of the question so I think you are down to spray foam around the joists/walls or tightly packed insulation. the danger here is trapping moisture against the joist causing rot to set in.
- 10 replies
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- airtightness
- joists
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Hmmm, did you wrap enough turn of PTFE to make the joints tighten up as then were wound in? Secret is to create a taper with the tape so the joint becomes progressively tighter and locks up before bottoming on the socket
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Haven’t tried that one but the evolution machines aren’t bad at all, most have low rpm but I see this is 3500 so should be ok for construction type jobs. if you are wanting to do cabinets etc then a track saw is miles in front. if you are wanting to cut joints then it’s a decent table saw anytime
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Has to be a thread mix match
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At build it live, some of the sliders would not move because the stand floors were flexing.
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Water pressure is affected by the pipe size and amount of water drawn off. Unlikely your outbuilding will be using loads of water unless it’s for a sprinkler or something. ideally you would run the pipe towards the house and use a tee to supply the outbuilding. (main usage in line with supply and tee to secondary location). in reality it would make little difference which way the tee was installed.
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The hinge restrictors put a massive leverage load on the frame when the door is swung open. A heavy door can easily rip hinges off or damage a stud wall. on a lighter note, swinging the door open and hitting someone using the toilet sounds like a great comedy sketch.
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No need for two runs, 1 run with tee to supply the outbuilding and blanked off for the house ready for when it’s needed
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Easiest was to make airtight between ground a first floor would probably be to install a membrane on the walls and ceilings as a continuous layer. removing cold bridges in an old property is more difficult due to the construction methods and joint details. why between ground and 1st floor? A flat I’m assuming?
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- airtightness
- joists
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15mm over 3m after levelling compound? ? not sure of requirements but that’s just pee poor workpersonship anyway
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Omg! First thought was the area had been felled but then realised how many root balls are visible
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I reckon you can do an infill panel both sides and make it a feature, sort of framing the door (no pun intended). think of accent stripe
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1 degree slope flat roof & zinc batten roll
markc replied to luz624's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Zinc doesn’t “need” a 3 degree slope, as long as the water does not pool higher than the seams then it will be waterproof. -
Availability has which has lead to some over charging but generally labour costs across most industries have stayed pretty level
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New build floorplans - opinions welcome
markc replied to Indy's topic in New House & Self Build Design
@pocster @CharlieKLP ????? -
Good answer! I started typing and then realised how many variables there are
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Went to the one somewhere near Oxford last year and it was dire! Nearly 3 hours to get there and stayed less than 20 mins
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Hi and welcome, depends where the waste pipe for toilet is, if it’s outside and the toilet will be on the same wall above then the pipe work is pretty straight forward. If the waste goes into the floor this will complicate things a bit. Will you be having a bath? Or just a shower? Shower over bath? new suite or moving the old one? tilling?
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Concrete block foundation - how many should I use?
markc replied to Danv's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I’m guessing the sand topping is for ease of levelling? Don’t! The sand will wash/leach away leaving voids. Under the blocks. as Conor said, well compacted base, add the blocks and then level the top with mortar or shims under the timbers.- 15 replies
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- foundation
- foundations
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If you want a post for aesthetic purposes put one in without the other box sections. as mentioned previously 100x50 laid flat will deflect under its own weight so pointless. even with a big snow load I can’t see any problem with what you already have so post should be fine on it’s own.
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Don’t bother, why pay more than £5k over the odds to get £5K back.
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As above, a crack that goes through a number of bricks can be a cause for concern, can’t see anything wrong with the pic
