markc

Unless the joist end/s are not supported then I would say the post is not needed. A single nail is sufficient as the post would be in compression so that isn’t a good indicator. for piece of mind you could put an acro at the side, remove the post and then lower the acro a small amount (loose nail at top to stop it walling over). You may find the floor above a bit springy without the support

The beam spec should include anything above it. Much easier to up spec the door beam than to add another 5m span above it that will not bear onto the door header

@Bozza that’s a damn nice garage, well done

Many materials are fire retardant but not fire proof, in that they will resist ignition from a small flame. A raging fire and/or intense heat changes the way fire behaves and it’s rate of spread. I do worry about the new housing estates with properties so close together and the semi detached or terrace types with a single roof structure where fire can jump between property easily. a good few years ago we worked on a factory producing beds, a big pile of foam marked fire retardant went up alarmingly quickly when we (I) dropped a spark on it.

Unless the humidity is very high I wouldn’t think paste would be affected by short term heat.

Edit option only lasts for a short time, caught me out a few times

You didn’t give any shed dimensions but depending on spans etc. 4x2 can work. Tanalised (I quite like the tantalised idea lol) is good. Better if on small pier type supports to minimise and standing water around the timber. DPM is good to separate the support piers and underside of timber. floor is really down to use of the shed, budget and build of structure underneath so more info would help.

Insulated Metal Panels are IMP’s auto correct or typo as you have INP

Basins Height: Between 760 and 1190mm is comfortable for the majority of adults. Span (the distance from left to right, without obstructions): Recommended: 1020mm Required: 760mm Clearance to the front: Recommended: 760mm Required: 510mm Baths Height: Between 500 and 600mm is comfortable for the majority of adults. Space requirement: The minimum size for a straight bath is 1500 x 700mm. Clearance to the side: Recommended: 760mm Required: 530mm Taps, fillers, wastes and any other form of controls need to be accessible from both inside and outside the tub. Showers Space requirement: The minimum shower size is 760 x 760 mm. Clearance to the front: Recommended: 760mm Required: 610mm

Good morning and welcome

Agree with the above, boarded walls make fitting kitchens and wall hung appliances a dream

You probably get a driver bit with the more expensive ones. tongue tight are great for hidden fixing but easily pull themselves through timber if you are not careful

Type1 used where you want it to compact and become almost a solid lump so definitely not good for a soak away, screened (washed) railway ballast, pebbles, crushed concrete etc.

Difficult to say from this pic but looks like a membrane, Can’t see it being felt at that width so more likely a rubberised or PVC type membrane

@Spetznaaz yes the vertical bricks above the door. Common detail but Looks like they have been changed to a different brick and by the cut bricks above it looks like it was originally more of an arch.

Yes, I was thinking along the same lines but put it down to weather direction

Got to agree with @saveasteading I would say it’s fairly typical for the era and a bit of TLC will sort the gable out. I would definitely do something with the door header though, no idea what’s going on there

You can get 1” female adapters for all 3 pipe types mentioned. or are you asking for links to specific products?

Planing doesn’t produce dust, nice curly shavings if using hand plane. If the chippy is going to trim bottom of door with it still in place then insist on dust extractor coupled to the saw. still better to take doors off, outside for trimming, then re fit

Recently been using Everbuild Aquaseal and I’m pretty impressed with it

What’s going on top of the screed? If tiling then liquid tanking and a properly laid membrane would do the trick

That’s a good bit of slinging! Ties to stop the strops moving in or out if the load was tipped towards one strop

Morning squire, not sure if it’s the right way but i would/do keep the plasterboard about 1/2 inch above the screed and use the wide joining tape to bridge the gap and maintain waterproof “tank” between wall and floor. A compressible foam could be used to fill the gap.

Or drill holes in steel and screw upwards with ordinary wood screws

Drawings for planning are completely different from construction or quotable drawings. It is up to you to detail exactly what you want or you are likely to get a big shock or shocks and multiple headaches during the build. sit down and think what you want, what is important, what is just dreaming and what spec level you can afford.