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Montana

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  1. Can you show me the gaps under the joists please? It’s one course of continuous bricks, with a timber plate on top, joists sit on that. So the gap between the joists allows for ventilation? Thanks Richard.
  2. It’s only a bungalow, cable end front and back, all internal walls are stud work. The 4 inch timbers on top of the dwarf walls are in good condition, as are the bricks and mortar, they also have an old dpm which looks fine. It had some woodworm on the end of some joists, which I’ve cut out and just about to replace.
  3. No not worried about taking the floor boards up, just we only have the 100mm void between the joists for the air flow, so I can’t really put anything between the joists unfortunately, as it will stop or reduce the ventilation.
  4. Looking for ideas for insulating my suspended wooden floor. I’ve not got any room under the floorboards to insulate and I’m a bit stuck for a solution. I’ll probably over board the existing floorboards with 18mm P5 t&g boards, so guessing that will seal up the drafts better but won’t add much thermal benefit? The floor joists are 100mm deep. I’ll attach a photo. Thanks Richard
  5. Hello, we have a 1930's solid wall bungalow, cable end front and back, we are about to have a re-roof done in the spring. Next year I want to add EWI but I've only about 60mm overhang on the eves down each side of the bungalow, has anyone extended the rafter tails, if so how was it done? Not sure if this should be in the heat insulation or roof section. Thanks Rich
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