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markc

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Everything posted by markc

  1. If no DPM between hardcore and slab then no need for a sand blinding layer
  2. Good morning and welcome
  3. Sharp putty knife or wallpaper scraper and it will peel off as fast as you can crawl
  4. Hi Simon, yes I would knock the render off and allow the wall to dry out
  5. If water is getting behind the bit of render I would knock it off, but I think the damp is more to do with water lashing off the path or joint between wall and path. What height is the floor inside compared with the air brick?
  6. Wood screws into plugs or in this case you could use concrete/thunderbolt screws but in breeze I prefer to plug and screw with the plug fully in the block
  7. 8x40 means it’s 8mm drill and plug is 40mm long. screws will be 5mm and length depends on what the wall build up is. If dot and dab plasterboard then plug and screw need burying into the block or brick behind. More info on wall build up will help
  8. The garden drop is a real advantage for you to create a whole new lower ground space. 10ft drop means you can get drainage in without sump pumps etc.
  9. Morning squire, the tanking stuff leaves a good tacky surface, very like PVA bonding. Tile adhesive grabs hold well so no reason plaster won’t.
  10. Hi and welcome
  11. Agree with @ETC you will not be able to get back to this outer/cavity wall so it needs to be bullet proof, doesn’t need to be pretty as no one will see it, if timber frame how would you flash the bottom? Likelihood of any water in the cavity tracking back under the timber sole plate.
  12. Assuming the relationship has gone past mediation, how about building upto the wall but not onto it. Treat it like a cavity, drainage channel at the bottom, compressible insulation etc. between the two walls to prevent debris etc. getting in. Your neighbour could complain saying you have stopped them accessing their wall but they built to the boundary. Yes everyone wants to build as big as possible but building upto a boundary rarely ends well.
  13. @Big Jimbo ‘s ‘Be Nice To Your Neigbour’ is a very important message. So many projects start with arguments and confrontations and it goes down hill from there. Involve your neigbour, confirm the boundary and as above, make sure you stay on your side, your Archi or SE or BCO can all disappear and leave you sorting a mess out. plus your builders will need access on their land, stuff will fall into their garden, something will get damaged, dust will be annoying etc etc. get the neighbours on your side and keep them there.
  14. Alexa is a hormonal b1tch .. or at least the ones I have are
  15. Eek, yes it’s a shallow roof. What overlap do you have? Wind blown water could be a bigger problem going up the roof than jumping the poor jointing
  16. That’s shabby! As a new roof to get the first course wrong isn’t a good sign. Roof also looks to be a very low pitch unless the pic is deceiving
  17. Assuming it was laid correctly (mat overlapped and not butted as I have seen) then you have to look at local damage .. ladders used on the roof or impact damage possibly. Appears too localised for condensation.
  18. Speak to the other owners to get a feel for what if anything is going on. old mining village near be, one row of terrace began to lean more than the others (think it was 6 houses in a terrace) and the whole terrace had to be pulled down, the other terraces still lean but are not getting any worse.
  19. They are EUR pallets, often called Euro or EPAL.
  20. The gaps are too tight to point. You could use grout mixed very watery and pour in but that could leave a lot of staining on the top. Dry grout brushed in and allowed to go off on its own or leave them to fill with dirt but that will encourage weeds
  21. Good argument, you want access for their benefit. And some people just disagree with anything and everything so don’t stress over it, due diligence! You do what you can (and what’s reasonable) to make the works as painless as possible for your neighbours but you are allowed to have work done.
  22. You can mist coat before it’s fully dry as long as it IS a mist coat and not sealing moisture in
  23. Oh for the days before YouTube experts 🤯
  24. Majority of outside work is done without a PWA, a single storey extension is pretty minor works. A PWA comes into its own when something goes badly wrong … underpinning a terrace house and the wall collapses, chimney dropping through roof etc. but from what you are describing it’s an extension not joining onto your neighbour so likelihood of a catastrophe is very low. You have done the right thing by making them aware. I would now just get on with it
  25. If they are not responding then give them final notification as you will be starting works within one week, then just get on with it. If you were fixing to or altering a garden wall or works directly onto an inside PW then it’s a different matter
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